So my few months old chain saw consistently drifts to the right. Both right and left teeth feel equally sharp, and look the same (to my untrained eye). I'll try to add a few pics:
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Newbie problem: Chain saw drifts right
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EbS-P
Minister of Fire
Try flipping the bar. If it still drifts right it’s the chain. If it’s ok then it’s the bar. Need dressed.
Thanks! I'll flip the bar around. Follow-up question, since you said it needs dressing (even though the teeth feel sharp): Looking at sharpening kits, it's not clear to me whether they contain the right gauge for my chain. The chain listed is an 'ALP 50-57S', which I believe means it has 57 links (not important for sharpening) and has a 50 mil height difference between the cutting teeth and the depth gauges. This Oregon sharpening kit does NOT have the correct 0.050" depth gauge, right?
stoveliker
Minister of Fire
EbS-P
Minister of Fire
Yes every s often you need to grind the bar that the chain runs on. One side of the chain guide could be wearing more than the other causing the chain to tip and a cut to drift. This is different than sharpening the cutters and filing the depth gauges.
Just a note might not by the saw or the chain but the operator . Do to handle locations it is easy to drift off . Think about it, one hand on back with trigger, other on top or left side. and generally standing off to one side a bit. Plus all of the above. Once it starts it almost impossible to correct short of starting over. If you are running the chain kinda loose it tends to pick its own path. note that a fresh chain install will always loosen up a bit so then you need to re-tension same after the first cut or partial cut.
I had thought about that. Even when I'm very conscious about not pushing down with the left hand, and try to apply a bit of torque in the other direction, it still drifts. I'm checking the chain tension often, and it's not on the loose side: when pulling up the bottom of the teeth is not quite coming above the bar level. I'll see how it behaves with the flipped bar. For now I'm waiting for new oil; just went through the first quart! Are all chainsaws quite generous with the oil? I feel like the oil dose could be reduced by a factor two, and it would still be plenty.
stoveliker
Minister of Fire
Well, I have the kids' version (electric), so I don't really know how long a tank of gas lasts on these gizmos, but I'd say I need to refill every fifteen minutes of sawing. I'm guessing it's about 2 ounces (60 ml) every 15 minutes. Just checked the manual, it says re-oil every 10 minutes, so it is using as much oil as it is designed to. But should it?
Chain is dull for sure. You can't feel if it is sharp, maybe an expert can. But dull chains feel sharp. The fact that you are pushing at all say's the chain is dull.
Edit, zoom into the 3rd pic (top tooth), you can see grooves in the top of the tooth. Very dull i'd say with 99.9% confidence.
You nicked 1 side while cutting. I don't see the grooves on the bottom tooth in the same pic.
Edit, zoom into the 3rd pic (top tooth), you can see grooves in the top of the tooth. Very dull i'd say with 99.9% confidence.
You nicked 1 side while cutting. I don't see the grooves on the bottom tooth in the same pic.
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Show a pic of the chips. They should be good size with no dusty ones in the chip pile.
stoveliker
Minister of Fire
stoveliker
Minister of Fire
I don't have experience to compare kits.
I have a cheap kit, just files and a depth gauge.
The most important thing is to watch a lot of trustworthy videos of how to do it, what to pay attention to.
I like bucking billy ray smith's filing videos. There will for sure be others too.
I have a cheap kit, just files and a depth gauge.
The most important thing is to watch a lot of trustworthy videos of how to do it, what to pay attention to.
I like bucking billy ray smith's filing videos. There will for sure be others too.
Depending on what you’re cutting, chains can dull quickly. It won’t help on electric, but I like to run the file every tank of gas, whether it needs it or not. It gives me a rest and I get to inspect the chain. Maybe every tank of bar oil would be a good gauge. More accidents happen when you push yourself.
If the cut is a little bit unsquare, the stove won’t care. Don’t stress out over this. If sharpening and flipping the bar doesn’t work, try cutting from the other side of the log.
If the cut is a little bit unsquare, the stove won’t care. Don’t stress out over this. If sharpening and flipping the bar doesn’t work, try cutting from the other side of the log.
Oh yeah duh i forgot. You just need a file that fits the size of your chain. Check your owners manual. or the box your chain came in if it's an extra chain. In the meantime i'd just get a new chain. Not sure about electric saw options but i've gotten very good aftermarket chains on ebay for my 18" stihl for around $15.
It can take a while to become a good chain sharpener, that's why i suggest having an extra chain.
I second finding a good chain sharpening on youtube. There are a few excellent ones.
Ahh i don't agree with this really. Just get a sharp chain. Operating a saw with a crap dull nicked chain is just a bad habit and you will never know how to get great fast cuts. Dull chains wastes a ton of time and are hard on the saw.
A saw with a sharp chain is a fun saw.
A saw with a dull chain is not a fun saw.
Where did I say a sharp chain wasn’t important? I sharpen my chain every tank of gas! Where the tree grew makes a huge difference in how fast it dulls though. If you’re out in the woods you can get by without sharpening much longer than if you’re cutting roadside trees in suburbia.
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