Newbie - Insert Stove?

[begreen]

90º turns in the flue path will impact draft. More chimney will be needed to compensate. Another major factor that affects chimney draft performance is altitude. A stove that performs ok on a 15ft chimney at sea level may heat poorly at 5-7000 ft without additional chimney added.

 

[begreen]

Thanks Woodhog
The PE SUMMIT may be the one then, though w/ the extension i will have to extend the fireplace hearth into the laminate floor below. Only got 20" and need 22". Bummer

How does the Super insert fit there?

 

[woodhog73]

90º turns in the flue path will impact draft. More chimney will be needed to compensate. Another major factor that affects chimney draft performance is altitude. A stove that performs ok on a 15ft chimney at sea level may heat poorly at 5-7000 ft without additional chimney added.

This is good info and stuff I never thought of. Makes sense.

This may sound silly but depending on the liner the OP uses can he extend it say an extra foot out from the clay flue tile ? It might look different but then his chimney height is only 2 feet shorter than 15 feet. Getting closer.

My flex liner is roughly 6 inches above my clay flue tiles so what would another 6 inches hurt to get closer to that 15 foot desired height ?

 

[begreen]

6" is probably not going to have a notable effect. Here is another option for some chimneys.
www.extendaflue.com

 

[Van]

How does the Super insert fit there?

Begreen, the Summit dimensions of the firebox that extend into the fireplace are 18" Deep by 23" High.
The corner is just about touching the existing metal "heatform" fireplace. I know it seems too close for comfort given that I am buying this stove unseen.
On the other hand the Super has a firebox of 18" Deep and is only 20-3/4" High, which is several inches away from the wall of the existing fireplace.

How does the Super insert fit there?

I was also thinking about your comment:

It's a 2 cu ft stove whose btu output is better matched to your climate. It gets some of the longest burn times of PE stoves according to thechimneysweep's in house testing and still will allow you to load N/S or E/W. We live in a similar winter temp area. My next door neighbor has the same firebox in the Spectrum. It's in a 1600 sq ft poorly insulated old farmhouse. When he first got the stove he complained to me that it made the place too hot until temps got in the low 30s. That's burning softwood. I think with a load of osage orange you will see 12+ hr burns and get a lot of heat. Hopefully it will fit the heatform a bit better too.

Talking with the expert yesterday about this question, I was told that the bigger firebox of the Summit would always be preferred because the Super would need to be refueled more often to supply the heat that the bigger box of the Summit produces with less. The idea would be to burn less fuel for the same or greater output. Do you agree?

 

[Van]

6" is probably not going to have a notable effect. Here is another option for some chimneys.
www.extendaflue.com

Exactly! Except i will need to extend the stainless steel flue liner.
I was thinking of something like this which is what another OP published on this website

or this

 

[begreen]

If you get a PE stove or an Enviro I would try it first before changing anything.

 

[Van]

Begreen,

I bought a PE Super Insert today.
I believe the Summit will be too much for my house and climate as you have suggested.

I also bought 12cu.ft. of perlite for $33.
I have decided to pour perlite down the chimney and around the old shell of the "Heatform" firebox (in the cavity of the stone & brick chimney) as well as around the new ss corrugated flex liner.
I will insulate the liner from the stove to the damper above, from there the perlite will insulate the liner it to the chimney cap.

 

[begreen]

Congratulations. Install a damper sealing block-off plate before pouring the perlite.

 

[Van]

Begreen, agree with the block-off plate lest the firebox snow perlite...

Two questions:
You support pouring in perlite insulate around the ss flex liner rather than spend the extra money to wrap it, at least in the chimney?
Of course the flex liner needs to be wrapped from the stove until it passes through the block off plate, yes?

 

[begreen]

To be honest, not really. You would need spacers at regular intervals to stop the liner from touching the chimney. If you have to pull the liner there'll be a real mess to deal with. So personally I would go with the proper insulation wrap. The liner does not need to be wrapped between the stove and the blockoff plate, but it won't hurt.

 

[Van]

Sounds good. I will only pour the perlite around the old firebox up to the damper where the wrapped flex liner will take over throughout the chimney cavity.

As long as I got your attention...
Regarding the stove. In the showroom today they had a PE Super on display that I was inspecting before putting my money down.
In opening the firebox there was loose insulation stuffed around what I believed to be the baffles in the top of the box. Rockwool?
Is that normal and why loose like that?
Thanks

 

[dafattkidd]

Hey Van,

Yes. Insulation above the baffle is normal. My stove has it as well. Good luck with your new beast! Now go get some wood! Dry wood is the secret to really enjoying the heat and burn times of these units.

 

[begreen]

Sounds good. I will only pour the perlite around the old firebox up to the damper where the wrapped flex liner will take over throughout the chimney cavity.

As long as I got your attention...
Regarding the stove. In the showroom today they had a PE Super on display that I was inspecting before putting my money down.
In opening the firebox there was loose insulation stuffed around what I believed to be the baffles in the top of the box. Rockwool?
Is that normal and why loose like that?
Thanks

There is kaowool ceramic insulation along the sides of the baffle. That is proper. It seals the edges of the baffle so that the flow is over the baffle only.