New (to me) VC Dauntless - Low draft issues

[PeckerWoods]

First wood stove in a new house - VC Dauntless. Beautiful bordeaux red, but I can’t seem to get enough air to the fire even with the control on highest setting. I’ve been reading lots of posts here, and they have been extremely helpful. Tried to stop opening the ash pan to get more air flow based on what I’ve read, but otherwise the fire stops and smolders. Air control on right side seems to do nothing, though it sounds like it does. Could it be the stove pipe setup?

 

[begreen]

That doesn't look ideal. Describe the flue system this is venting into. Is there a liner in a chimney or an external class A chimney? How tall is it and what diameter?

 

[PeckerWoods]

That doesn't look ideal. Describe the flue system this is venting into. Is there a liner in a chimney or an external class A chimney? How tall is it and what diameter?

Forgive me as a new wood stove owner. I believe it is terra cotta. There are two flues running through our chimney. One on the left for the Dauntless and another on the right for another wood stove in the basement that is at least 43 years old without the stove pipe sealed properly. The pipe is at least 20-25 ft tall for the Dauntless.

 

[begreen]

The problem could be insufficient draft. The number of turns in the stove pipe aren't helping. However, the size and condition of the clay liner is more important. It should be measured. This information may be on the chimney sweep's report if one was done recently. Also, does this clay liner have a cleanout door? If so, is that door gasketed and air-tight?

Does the stove have a catalyst installed?

 

[PeckerWoods]

The problem could be insufficient draft. The number of turns in the stove pipe aren't helping. However, the size and condition of the clay liner is more important. It should be measured. This information may be on the chimney sweep's report if one was done recently. Also, does this clay liner have a cleanout door? If so, is that door gasketed and air-tight?

Does the stove have a catalyst installed?

@begreen Thank you for your taking time to help. I’m learning more by the hour. Chimney sweep’s report says it’s a 6” stainless steel pipe. Found a clean out for the Dauntless in the basement behind the old stove. It does not have a gasket. Just picked up a few different widths this week, so timely to add one.

Just replaced the old catalyst yesterday because the fire and embers went out when I engaged it. Same happens with the new one.

 

[Wisco Shepherd]

Man once that 25 foot flue gets going it should override the odd bends you have at the start. Cleanout doors are another thing to check.

Also, obligatory to ask about fuel, what is the moisture content of a fresh split at room temp reading? If you don't have a moisture meter how long has your supply been split and stacked?

 

[begreen]

@begreen Thank you for your taking time to help. I’m learning more by the hour. Chimney sweep’s report says it’s a 6” stainless steel pipe. Found a clean out for the Dauntless in the basement behind the old stove. It does not have a gasket. Just picked up a few different widths this week, so timely to add one.

Just replaced the old catalyst yesterday because the fire and embers went out when I engaged it. Same happens with the new one.

Is there a cap on the bottom of the tee that the stove connects to or is it open?

Also, has the firewood been checked for moisture content by resplitting a few thicker splits, then testing on the freshly exposed center of the wood?

 

[PeckerWoods]

Man once that 25 foot flue gets going it should override the odd bends you have at the start. Cleanout doors are another thing to check.

Also, obligatory to ask about fuel, what is the moisture content of a fresh split at room temp reading? If you don't have a moisture meter how long has your supply been split and stacked?

@Wisco Shepherd we are burning oak dried for 1 1/2-2 yrs from a neighbor until ours is ready next year. We live in a forest of mostly oak and pine - one of the reasons we bought the place. Moisture content reading of firewood inside is 5-6%.

Was able to nurse a fire all day today (kind of a pain, kind of therapeutic). After 9 hours, it seems to be burning as it should. Just engaged the catalytic combuster, and immediately the glass blackened.

 

[PeckerWoods]

Is there a cap on the bottom of the tee that the stove connects to or is it open?

Also, has the firewood been checked for moisture content by resplitting a few thicker splits, then testing on the freshly exposed center of the wood?

@begreen Moisture content of wood is 5-6% after resplitting.

Could you explain more about the tee? Not sure I know what I’m looking at.

 

[Wisco Shepherd]

@Wisco Shepherd we are burning oak dried for 1 1/2-2 yrs from a neighbor until ours is ready next year. We live in a forest of mostly oak and pine - one of the reasons we bought the place. Moisture content reading of firewood inside is 5-6%.

Was able to nurse a fire all day today (kind of a pain, kind of therapeutic). After 9 hours, it seems to be burning as it should. Just engaged the catalytic combuster, and immediately the glass blackened.

5-6 in 2 years is suspiciously low for oak in west Virginia, but assuming that's legit you could have a clogged catalyst? Also look into that cleanout gasket seal.

 

[PeckerWoods]

5-6 in 2 years is suspiciously low for oak in west Virginia, but assuming that's legit you could have a clogged catalyst? Also look into that cleanout gasket seal.

That’s likely me not remembering correctly. Neighbor cuts trees as a business. Just replaced the catalyst yesterday, so hopefully that and the clean out gasket will help.

Moving to the woods has been a whole new set of life skills!

 

[NickW]

Is that 5-6% on a warm fresh split? Accurate mc reading is to get a large chunk to room temperature (24 hours minimum), then split it and take the reading immediately in several locations on the fresh split. Typically the middle of the fresh split will be higher than the ends and edges. That kind of reading is suspiciously low and oak is notorious for slow seasoning. Great firewood...after 3 years split and stacked.

What kind of temperatures are you getting to before you engage the cat? I don't have a cat stove, but immediately blackening the glass after engaging the cat makes me suspect moisture content or not getting it hot enough before engaging.

 

[PeckerWoods]

@NickW Today I got the stove to 600 before engaging the cat (measured on top of stove top griddle). I split a couple of the splits a few minutes ago, and the readings were definitely higher on the fresh edge. Between 18-19%.

 

[begreen]

@begreen Moisture content of wood is 5-6% after resplitting.

Could you explain more about the tee? Not sure I know what I’m looking at.

The meter sounds like it is not set right or out of calibration. The wood may be ok, but 5-6% is close to impossible to achieve with normal air drying. However, if the meter is off by 10% and the fresh edge reading is actually 28% then the wood needs more seasoning.

The stainless steel liner should be connected to a tee in the chimney. The tee's snout is what connects to the stove pipe. The tee's bottom needs to be sealed. If it is open, draft will be diluted by cool air entering the base of the tee. You might be able to inspect this with a mirror and flashlight from the cleanout looking up or with a cellphone camera.

 

[bigealta]

Wet wood i'd bet. Push the pins in further and watch that 18-19% reading go up to 22-23% or higher.

 

[PeckerWoods]

Thank you for each of your replies. I’ve learned quite a bit this week and am a better fire burner because of it!

 

[NickW]

Oh yeah, pins should be parallel to the grain not perpendicular... 20% wood can be a little sluggish getting going, especially oak.

 

[all night moe]

You said you have 2 flues, one being for the stove in basement. That cleanout behind the basement stove is for that flue.
Since you have a SS liner, like begreen noted, the bottom of that cleanout cap should be sealed. You may have a cleanout door for the VC's stove outside? Wouldn't hurt to check that seal but not really necessary because of your liner.

Edit/add on: If you can move the stove some, without sacrificing clearances or hearth protection, I'd look into improving draft from stove to wall. Straighten it out some more vertical than horizontal.