New to me Fisher woodstove
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What size and thickness are the grandpa bear Steel brick side covers?
I have a Very good friend who owns a welding shop. Can anybody draw me a sketch with measurements?
I have a Very good friend who owns a welding shop. Can anybody draw me a sketch with measurements?
Have you checked to make sure the area where the crock passes through the wall is done correctly? Do you have 36" to the wood trim on the sides of the brick and what is behind that brick?
Do you have the liner to install the insert?
Todd67
Minister of Fire
Not sure where you can buy those new door hinge pins. They are 3/8" rivets if I remember correctly. @coaly might know of a source for those pins. I think I've seen them come up on eBay in the past.
Looks like you've been busy, and making progress. Just curious, why did you decide on a Timberline insert for the kitchen fireplace? Bob Fisher actually built his first wood stove, and set it on his fireplace hearth because he didn't get enough heat from his fireplace.
I bought my Grandpa Bear from a couple who hooked it up on their fireplace hearth. They loved their Fisher stove. They owned it for 25 years but they had to buy firewood and it was getting expensive. Just an FYI, Fisher inserts are usually for sale on Craigslist
Looks like you've been busy, and making progress. Just curious, why did you decide on a Timberline insert for the kitchen fireplace? Bob Fisher actually built his first wood stove, and set it on his fireplace hearth because he didn't get enough heat from his fireplace.
I bought my Grandpa Bear from a couple who hooked it up on their fireplace hearth. They loved their Fisher stove. They owned it for 25 years but they had to buy firewood and it was getting expensive. Just an FYI, Fisher inserts are usually for sale on Craigslist
Todd67
Minister of Fire
Either from the top or through the stove. It is way faster and easier than pulling out the insert every year. And way safer as well as much better performance
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Timberlines are every bit as good as fishersNot sure where you can buy those new door hinge pins. They are 3/8" rivets if I remember correctly. @coaly might know of a source for those pins. I think I've seen them come up on eBay in the past.
Looks like you've been busy, and making progress. Just curious, why did you decide on a Timberline insert for the kitchen fireplace? Bob Fisher actually built his first wood stove, and set it on his fireplace hearth because he didn't get enough heat from his fireplace.
I bought my Grandpa Bear from a couple who hooked it up on their fireplace hearth. They loved their Fisher stove. They owned it for 25 years but they had to buy firewood and it was getting expensive. Just an FYI, Fisher inserts are usually for sale on Craigslist
Its chimney behind the brick. And yes, I made sure it got place at least 36 from the brick wall. My Shenandoah was quite taller and never any issues. There is an aluminum heat shield hanging from mantle where the stove pipe connects to chimney.
I think Todd knows I'm doing it right
I think Todd knows I'm doing it right
So there is no combustible material on the back side of that brick wall? It's all masonry?
If so that's fine as long as the chimney has proper clearances up through as well.
Nothing combustible. I'm even going to run brick on the wall each side of the 4×4 vericle mantle. You should be able to see where the old wall paper was ripped off
Todd67
Minister of Fire
And he got a good deal on the Timberline, which also looks good in the photo.
Ok so just to be sure if you look on the other side of the wall that that brick is covering it is brick the same as what we see there?
I am sorry to rag on this point. But it is done completely wrong very often and that is a very dangerous area if it is done wrong.
Because I do this for a living every day and see the really stupid dangerous stuff people do all the time.
Your picture of manual and brochure is not the manual for your stove. That is a Goldilocks manual.
The manual used for that stove is the first and only non-listed manual. It is not a UL Listed stove, so it will not be a legal "new" installation, no matter how it's done.
The picture of stove with doors closed shows the right handle far too low if it is latched. It should match the left door handle angle (which is correct) when latched with no gasket. Many threads have door handle adjustment instructions. Just don't bend the rod cold.
Adding gasket material to a double door stove many times does not allow doors to close fully in the center defeating the purpose of trying to make it tighter. There is no clearance for gasket when doors are closed on the door seal. Clearance means when door is latched there is a space for gasket material to crush between the parts. There is zero clearance for a gasket. Look carefully at the center of channel iron (door seal) where the raised portion of door touches in the center of the web. Wire wheel it clean to remove any trace of gasket cement. When the door touches the web center, it also should touch the channel iron edges giving it three points of contact. (you can see this closing one door and looking at door seal area at door edge) If you have 3 points of contact, you're good to go. Adjusting the door handle correctly should allow it to seal properly.
People that have had stoves all their lives are used to door gaskets and add them thinking it is missing. You're usually just repeating the mistake the first person made adding a gasket. Only when door hinge pins or hinge plates are worn is there enough room for gasket material. Try it without, if you can make the fire die or glow with no flames with intake dampers closed, it is fine.
ACE Hardware does not have solid rivets.
You can find many sellers with them on eBay.
Measure the length of yours since Cathedral doors have thicker door hinge ears than the older flat top doors. Flat top doors use shorter rivets. So be sure the seller has them for Cathedral doors.
If you only need one it is easier to make one from a 3/8 bolt.
Simply use a bolt with no threads from head down to the length you need. Grind the hex points off so the head is round. Chuck it up in a drill and if you have a bench grinder, run the drill slowly in reverse with the bench grinder running. This forms the round rivet head easily. If you don't have a bench grinder, have someone hold the drill and run it forward. Dress it with a file to a round head shape. You can make these in a few minutes.
I'm not sure what part you are referring to in post #30 above. There is nothing called a "brick cover"; that would be a cast liner in a coal stove. Perhaps you are referring to the brick retainer which is 1 1/2 angle iron? Older stoves used "clips" made from the same 1 1/2 angle iron welded to the stove at the brick joints. They worked better in my opinion than the newer one piece angle iron which does not allow removal of a broken brick as easy as the entire rail retainer type.
The manual used for that stove is the first and only non-listed manual. It is not a UL Listed stove, so it will not be a legal "new" installation, no matter how it's done.
The picture of stove with doors closed shows the right handle far too low if it is latched. It should match the left door handle angle (which is correct) when latched with no gasket. Many threads have door handle adjustment instructions. Just don't bend the rod cold.
Adding gasket material to a double door stove many times does not allow doors to close fully in the center defeating the purpose of trying to make it tighter. There is no clearance for gasket when doors are closed on the door seal. Clearance means when door is latched there is a space for gasket material to crush between the parts. There is zero clearance for a gasket. Look carefully at the center of channel iron (door seal) where the raised portion of door touches in the center of the web. Wire wheel it clean to remove any trace of gasket cement. When the door touches the web center, it also should touch the channel iron edges giving it three points of contact. (you can see this closing one door and looking at door seal area at door edge) If you have 3 points of contact, you're good to go. Adjusting the door handle correctly should allow it to seal properly.
People that have had stoves all their lives are used to door gaskets and add them thinking it is missing. You're usually just repeating the mistake the first person made adding a gasket. Only when door hinge pins or hinge plates are worn is there enough room for gasket material. Try it without, if you can make the fire die or glow with no flames with intake dampers closed, it is fine.
ACE Hardware does not have solid rivets.
You can find many sellers with them on eBay.
Measure the length of yours since Cathedral doors have thicker door hinge ears than the older flat top doors. Flat top doors use shorter rivets. So be sure the seller has them for Cathedral doors.
If you only need one it is easier to make one from a 3/8 bolt.
Simply use a bolt with no threads from head down to the length you need. Grind the hex points off so the head is round. Chuck it up in a drill and if you have a bench grinder, run the drill slowly in reverse with the bench grinder running. This forms the round rivet head easily. If you don't have a bench grinder, have someone hold the drill and run it forward. Dress it with a file to a round head shape. You can make these in a few minutes.
I'm not sure what part you are referring to in post #30 above. There is nothing called a "brick cover"; that would be a cast liner in a coal stove. Perhaps you are referring to the brick retainer which is 1 1/2 angle iron? Older stoves used "clips" made from the same 1 1/2 angle iron welded to the stove at the brick joints. They worked better in my opinion than the newer one piece angle iron which does not allow removal of a broken brick as easy as the entire rail retainer type.
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