New Stove! First Stove! And it's outside :-)!
- Thread starter Kustrud
- Start date
-
Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.
We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.
We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil. -
Super Cedar firestarters 30% discount Use code Hearth2024 Click here
- Status
No 45s are not. 30s and 15s are. You could run straight from the stove but you would be better off properly mounting it to tge deck then connecting it with stove pipe
Are you saying start with stove pipe at the stove? Use stove pipe materials up to the straight run maybe and then chimney pipe from there?
So I definitely learned some from reading all of the feedback here on the forum - again, thanks! My main concern now for safety would really just be a chimney fire due to creosote build-up. My clearances are all 18" from everything so I am good there.....but still obviously do not want a chimney fire anywhere near my deck/house.
What I have learned here and read about is the non-insulated single wall pipe not holding heat and cooling quickly to contribute to creosote even if I am burning good wood (which I mostly am and will).
This stove will probably be used 15-20 times a year for a few hours at a time at the most. Questions moving forward:
1. With this usage, is this something to really be concerned about?
2. Do products like this work or is this snake-oil? https://www.amazon.com/Pine-Mountain-4152501500-Creosote-Cleaning/dp/B00FGPVDCS/ref=sr_1_9?crid=3BN43GP4EEM61&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.rZh5InFLE3y20ljnwqpq085P9Vp00xW72BHVn3hU-TlvfW5LerZA3UMz3bl2XqKcWX9ElLtRsH858lIPd98gfFNl7VwLUh2AU3LmIMvsC9yPyRZexDiH-2m-37sZi_fgFYulWElPa-yF46FMQGIWlBltv6UCBWtyhzqcY4rmGsYxxX9ZJVstsTkGIevklsf2CZNTuI-Yis05k6iv23pDlbYt4I9PmJWYlhl4VwGIrz1_tQ7HPiWF8qMf7SIiCGHI91yt4NWGp9p7M3in2V7CZ3VKxgTIzKwG3wXRjdYE2qM.StN4C9-ghCOhjZvgBF3wea7tn9K4P93p6tDnRDSTWyA&dib_tag=se&keywords=creosote+remover&qid=1708700385&sprefix=creosot,aps,206&sr=8-9&th=1
3. Would going to double-wall pipe help with this at all?
4. If I use a Class-A chimney pipe, would I need to use stove pipe from the stove up to the straight run of chimney pipe?
5. For my usage, and now being at the 18" clearances....am I overthinking this?
Sorry for all of the questions and I really appreciate the help! I LOVE how this turned out but want it to be as safe as possible and don't mind spending a little money to ensure that.
What I have learned here and read about is the non-insulated single wall pipe not holding heat and cooling quickly to contribute to creosote even if I am burning good wood (which I mostly am and will).
This stove will probably be used 15-20 times a year for a few hours at a time at the most. Questions moving forward:
1. With this usage, is this something to really be concerned about?
2. Do products like this work or is this snake-oil? https://www.amazon.com/Pine-Mountain-4152501500-Creosote-Cleaning/dp/B00FGPVDCS/ref=sr_1_9?crid=3BN43GP4EEM61&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.rZh5InFLE3y20ljnwqpq085P9Vp00xW72BHVn3hU-TlvfW5LerZA3UMz3bl2XqKcWX9ElLtRsH858lIPd98gfFNl7VwLUh2AU3LmIMvsC9yPyRZexDiH-2m-37sZi_fgFYulWElPa-yF46FMQGIWlBltv6UCBWtyhzqcY4rmGsYxxX9ZJVstsTkGIevklsf2CZNTuI-Yis05k6iv23pDlbYt4I9PmJWYlhl4VwGIrz1_tQ7HPiWF8qMf7SIiCGHI91yt4NWGp9p7M3in2V7CZ3VKxgTIzKwG3wXRjdYE2qM.StN4C9-ghCOhjZvgBF3wea7tn9K4P93p6tDnRDSTWyA&dib_tag=se&keywords=creosote+remover&qid=1708700385&sprefix=creosot,aps,206&sr=8-9&th=1
3. Would going to double-wall pipe help with this at all?
4. If I use a Class-A chimney pipe, would I need to use stove pipe from the stove up to the straight run of chimney pipe?
5. For my usage, and now being at the 18" clearances....am I overthinking this?
Sorry for all of the questions and I really appreciate the help! I LOVE how this turned out but want it to be as safe as possible and don't mind spending a little money to ensure that.
My biggest concern involving a chimney fire now that you have clearance is will that pipe just collapse in the event of a fire. Think about it you are relying on a thin piece of sheet steel to contain a 2100 degree chimney fire that is hot enough to really soften that steel
brenndatomu
Minister of Fire
That singlewall won't last long outdoors like that...it'll rust, get thin, and some random breeze will blow it over someday, hopefully not while its being used.
Myself, I'd sink a heavy steel 20' post/beam/pipe in the ground about 4-5' and then attach a proper class A doublewall stainless steel chimney to it...
Myself, I'd sink a heavy steel 20' post/beam/pipe in the ground about 4-5' and then attach a proper class A doublewall stainless steel chimney to it...
brenndatomu
Minister of Fire
A temp of a lil more than half that 2100* would be enough to let that thin metal start to get soft/pliable and give way...
Alright....so that's my question.
1. Would a simple double-wall setup not at least be much more sufficient than the single? Stainless inside, the outside is not getting anywhere near as hot...etc. etc.? I know I can start at the stove with a double wall, buy 45 degree double wall elbows, etc. I have the entire plan in place for this option.
2. How would I go about piping in a Class A? Please enlighten me starting at the stove in what I would need and how to do so.
3. Would this single wall last 1 year? We have a wood burner at our hunting cabin in an "outdoor shed" and it's had a single wall setup for 5 years that still looks new.
Not arguing with anyone, simply learning! Thanks again!
1. Would a simple double-wall setup not at least be much more sufficient than the single? Stainless inside, the outside is not getting anywhere near as hot...etc. etc.? I know I can start at the stove with a double wall, buy 45 degree double wall elbows, etc. I have the entire plan in place for this option.
2. How would I go about piping in a Class A? Please enlighten me starting at the stove in what I would need and how to do so.
3. Would this single wall last 1 year? We have a wood burner at our hunting cabin in an "outdoor shed" and it's had a single wall setup for 5 years that still looks new.
Not arguing with anyone, simply learning! Thanks again!
Just planning for the final piping....
How much would two 90's affect my draft vs the two 45's I am using now?
The horizontal run would not be longer than roughly 12-16".
How much would two 90's affect my draft vs the two 45's I am using now?
The horizontal run would not be longer than roughly 12-16".
A 90 degree bend generally adds 2 ft to the minimum length needed for a stove.
A 45 adds 1 ft. So based on that (1 90 vs 2 45s) it's a wash.
Generally, though, having less sharp corners is better for gas flow, and avoiding a horizontal run is good too (as it would also add a ft to the minimum length recommended for good operation).
A 45 adds 1 ft. So based on that (1 90 vs 2 45s) it's a wash.
Generally, though, having less sharp corners is better for gas flow, and avoiding a horizontal run is good too (as it would also add a ft to the minimum length recommended for good operation).
How is the draft right now? If it's not that good then I wouldn't switch to 90s. If you have a really strong draft then 90s would be fine.
The pipe clearly passes under the main beam of the deck within inches. The pipe is also all upside down.
brenndatomu
Minister of Fire
What you have now is closer to 30 than 45...but you have enough height that the stove should work fine with (2) 90s...a couple of 90s might give you a little smoke rollout when reloading before it's down to coals, but since it's already outside, who cares?
Actually no, you’re wrong. Not sure why the hostility and smart-ass-ness but it’s nowhere close to the beam.
The picture makes it look that way. But I believe it isn't too close. But your pipe absolutely is upside down
If he based his remark on post #24 he would be correct, but it got changed, see post #34. Hard to judge the distance there, given the camera angle and pipe angle.
Regardless, class A can be 2" away from combustibles. If you get a ceiling support box, mount that on the joist of the deck, use (double walled) stove pipe up to that box and class A after that, it's a much better system.
The question is what is best, given the utilization of an inside appliance in an outside situation. But that is water under the bridge.
Regardless, class A can be 2" away from combustibles. If you get a ceiling support box, mount that on the joist of the deck, use (double walled) stove pipe up to that box and class A after that, it's a much better system.
The question is what is best, given the utilization of an inside appliance in an outside situation. But that is water under the bridge.
Whole plans gonna change now! Wife decided she doesn’t like pipe running straight up the middle of the new deck/view. It doesn’t terribly bother me but I cannot really argue.
I think I’m going to move the stove to the right corner or right side of the patio and have a company come run chimney pipe to the actual roof of the house.
Any other ideas or routes for the pipe anyone can see?
Here’s a good shot of rear of house.
Double wall stove pipe to the wall and then up with Class A chimney against the brick.
Stove will be in one of those two circles.
Either that or just run 48” up and 48” off a 45 degree elbow and see if it’ll draft. If not, try that with the door open and use it as a fireplace with no glass lol. So two options. Really leaning towards the first one if wife is OK with piping routes.
![[Hearth.com] New Stove! First Stove! And it's outside :-)!](https://www.hearth.com/talk/data/attachments/325/325131-36e687ee9154b73fac48bc2c309af8c7.jpg?hash=Z9BFI6GcOp "[Hearth.com] New Stove! First Stove! And it's outside :-)!")
![[Hearth.com] New Stove! First Stove! And it's outside :-)!](https://www.hearth.com/talk/data/attachments/325/325132-99b03d8843529a5db174a2af0376498d.jpg?hash=lB2y23VAng "[Hearth.com] New Stove! First Stove! And it's outside :-)!")
I think I’m going to move the stove to the right corner or right side of the patio and have a company come run chimney pipe to the actual roof of the house.
Any other ideas or routes for the pipe anyone can see?
Here’s a good shot of rear of house.
Double wall stove pipe to the wall and then up with Class A chimney against the brick.
Stove will be in one of those two circles.
Either that or just run 48” up and 48” off a 45 degree elbow and see if it’ll draft. If not, try that with the door open and use it as a fireplace with no glass lol. So two options. Really leaning towards the first one if wife is OK with piping routes.
Maybe you should put the stove in a gazebo in the yard. Just a thought. You could make it so the heat wouldn't be completely wasted. Less concern with sparks. Visually it would not affect the deck, or the view from inside the house as much.
It might be a great place to hang out on the coldest evenings..
Or put it on the deck and run the chimney straight up through the deck. Double wall black pipe, roof box, and then some class A in an attractive chase.
Or not.
Oops, missed the part where you said you already have a firepit.
Oops, also missed the part that this was already suggested.
It might be a great place to hang out on the coldest evenings..
Or put it on the deck and run the chimney straight up through the deck. Double wall black pipe, roof box, and then some class A in an attractive chase.
Or not.
Oops, missed the part where you said you already have a firepit.
Oops, also missed the part that this was already suggested.
Last edited:
- Status
Similar threads
