New saw and splitter
- Thread starter Fiziksgeek
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I'll forgive you for buying a Husky if we get a few pics and perhaps a vid of that 562XP shredding wood. (I'm a closet 562XP fan.
)Great opportunity you have to test drive those splitters. Timberwolf is widely regarded as one of if not the best in the business. As you've already seen, their machines are over the top with a price tag to match. Having the I & O to test drive will prove just how much splitter $2K will buy.
As far as your chain goes most safety chains out there today cut pretty decent so long as the nose of the bar isn't buried in the wood. For replacements, I'd try to get a couple Stihl 33RSC-72 chains for that saw. Don't worry, the better chain won't bite you, IMO it's just as "safe" as what you're running now, kinda like a sharp knife being safer than a dull one. And nobody will tease you for running Stihl chain on a Husky (Common practice around here and other chainsaw fan sites). The best chains for one of the best 60cc saws out there.
For a 24" bar I'd stick with the Stihl chain (33RSC-84 I believe, the number of links may be different but the chain type should always be 33RSC) on a Oregon Powermatch bar. (Oregon makes Husky's OEM bars.) Maybe explore a lightweight bar option for a 24" on a 562XP?
Read the data on the bar. gotta know if it's .050 or .058. gauge (width of chain grove). (most common is .050)
The specs for .050 & .058 are both 3/8 pitch (some call it .375)
Then you need how many Drive Links are on the chain. (Usually a Husq 20" is 72 DL)
I like a full (round) chisel for fast cutting if your saw has enough power to run it (AND YOURS DOES)!
Stihl popular full chisel number# : 33 RS 72 (for my 20" Husq which is a .050 gauge )
(the first # , (3) is 3/8" pitch-- 2nd # (3) is .050 ( **if your bar is .058 this # will be a 5 **)
R is chain type (Sthil Rapid) , the S is cutter shape -- S for chisel. (This is sometimes followed by a special identifier for various chains) & 72 for number of Drive links
Popular Oregon chain is the LGX full chisel : 72LGX-72 (first 72 is .050 gauge, LGX full chisel, the 72 for the number of drive links)
If your bar is .058 then 73LGX + number of Drive links)
LPX is also a good Oregon chain, some anti kick back features but a full chisel
Reference for your saw at Oregon: select your saw for Oregon PN:
(broken link removed)
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The specs for .050 & .058 are both 3/8 pitch (some call it .375)
Then you need how many Drive Links are on the chain. (Usually a Husq 20" is 72 DL)
I like a full (round) chisel for fast cutting if your saw has enough power to run it (AND YOURS DOES)!
Stihl popular full chisel number# : 33 RS 72 (for my 20" Husq which is a .050 gauge )
(the first # , (3) is 3/8" pitch-- 2nd # (3) is .050 ( **if your bar is .058 this # will be a 5 **)
R is chain type (Sthil Rapid) , the S is cutter shape -- S for chisel. (This is sometimes followed by a special identifier for various chains) & 72 for number of Drive links
Popular Oregon chain is the LGX full chisel : 72LGX-72 (first 72 is .050 gauge, LGX full chisel, the 72 for the number of drive links)
If your bar is .058 then 73LGX + number of Drive links)
LPX is also a good Oregon chain, some anti kick back features but a full chisel
Reference for your saw at Oregon: select your saw for Oregon PN:
(broken link removed)
If I had one of those new 562XP's,I'd stick a 28" .050 gauge bar on it w/ Oregon 72JGX93 DL Full Skip chain & be done with it.
Are those the same as Oregon Reduced Weight bars with a different name? Center milled out,filled with aluminum for 25% weight reduction.Around $150 for 28" last I checked.Not supposed to take any abuse,easier to 'flex' & bend I've heard.
I have switched to northwood saw.....they have good prices on carleton chain and the shipping is reasonable
No, I don't think so. I've got one on order, but I won't be home to use it till September. The reading I've done over on AS seem to suggest that they are a good product. I do believe they are aluminum filled as you suggest, but I've seen nothing about flex or bending. They are $130 through Baileys, I said they were expensive. $100 for a 20".
I'll be glad to give a full report in September if you'd like. I'm getting the 20" for my 365xt(probably wouln't flex like a 28"). I'm fairly new to felling(just started a couple years ago with my 450), so I haven't cut anything big enough to need a 28" bar. I'm getting there though. Pratice and Patience.
Happy Father's day to all the dads out there.
I spent ~1.5 hours Friday and ~2.5 hours yesterday. Have everything cut except a couple of ~24" x ~8' logs, and that one big 45" round. Have run 3 tanks of gas through the saw I think. Touched up the chain once. With a little luck, I'll finish up today in a couple more hours. The hardest part about working with the big wood is moving it around, worrying about the shifting pile, etc. I noodled a couple of the bigger rounds just to be able to move them around. No doubt I would be done already if this was a nice pile of medium sized straight logs. If I finish up today, I will try and reserve the log splitter next weekend.
That one large round, that the saw is sitting on in the pic above is going to be an issue. its 45" diameter and ~36"thick. Looks like its where the main trunk transitions to 3 larger branches, so its going to be tough cutting. Its heavy enough I can barely move it..I'll figure something out!
A guy down the street from me had some log length delivered. I was very jealous of his stack, looks to be 6-7 cords of long, straight, 16-24" logs. Then I found out he paid like 3x what i paid.
I spent ~1.5 hours Friday and ~2.5 hours yesterday. Have everything cut except a couple of ~24" x ~8' logs, and that one big 45" round. Have run 3 tanks of gas through the saw I think. Touched up the chain once. With a little luck, I'll finish up today in a couple more hours. The hardest part about working with the big wood is moving it around, worrying about the shifting pile, etc. I noodled a couple of the bigger rounds just to be able to move them around. No doubt I would be done already if this was a nice pile of medium sized straight logs. If I finish up today, I will try and reserve the log splitter next weekend.
That one large round, that the saw is sitting on in the pic above is going to be an issue. its 45" diameter and ~36"thick. Looks like its where the main trunk transitions to 3 larger branches, so its going to be tough cutting. Its heavy enough I can barely move it..I'll figure something out!
A guy down the street from me had some log length delivered. I was very jealous of his stack, looks to be 6-7 cords of long, straight, 16-24" logs. Then I found out he paid like 3x what i paid.
Well.....went out to finish up cutting today. Made 3 or 4 cuts in one of the 24" x 8' logs, shut the saw off to roll it over and finish off the cut. Couldn't get it started back up....Been running the same gas since I brought it home, also in my blower and weed wacker. I followed the manual for a warm start, pulled the choke lever up then pushed it down, hit the decompression lever, hit the primer a couple times..gave her a pull, nothing, pull pull pull, nothing. Let it sit for 30 minutes, did it again, nothing. Pulled the plug, nice and dry. Put it back in, tried again, nothing....hmmmmmmmm......
In an earlier post...I noted about my BIL 562 being a PITA to start, now that its had a few tanks ran through it and is about broken in....
I have had 4 Husqvarnas and all start with 4 pulls (1 or 2 w/ choke on, and1 or 2 w/o choke).
We had to pull the plug, to dry it out and then re-install and remove the air filter (easy breathing). Then it fires right up (after about 20 minutes of messing with it). Its a fantastic saw when it runs.
Hmmm, doesnt sound flooded.
If you only had it shut down for a short time, I wouldn't mess with the choke. Just flip the on switch and it should start with one pull.
If you only had it shut down for a short time, I wouldn't mess with the choke. Just flip the on switch and it should start with one pull.
Thats what I did at first, but then when it didn't start, I went and grabbed the manual. When I couldn't get it going, I went to the backyard and played with the kids (4.5 little girl, 11 month little boy), let it sit for a half hour and tried again, then gave up. Will give it a try when I get home from work tomorrow. If I still have issues, I'll stop by dealer Tuesday morning...
He pulled the choke, then pushed it down (doesn't that turn the choke off and only run the saw at 1/3-1/4 throttle?)
I start mine with or without doing that (pulling choke, then switching off). They all start 1st pull after hot. Even if they have been off for about an hour, they still fire.
My Bro-in-Law is gonna take his in. Its really a PITA. No matter who has tried..... This auto-tune, may need some tuning?
That 20 ton Iron and Oak, or a 22 ton Huskee will handle everything for you. If you get the occasional log that is way too big, just noodle it into halves and quarters.
I would have gone with the Huskee 22 but found a 35 ton Huskee that was stored away brand new seven years ago. It had never even had gasoline put into it. Looked like it was on the showroom. I bought it for $1000. Added gas. Fired right up on the second pull. 35 tons is overkill for my needs but I couldn't pass up the deal.
I would have gone with the Huskee 22 but found a 35 ton Huskee that was stored away brand new seven years ago. It had never even had gasoline put into it. Looked like it was on the showroom. I bought it for $1000. Added gas. Fired right up on the second pull. 35 tons is overkill for my needs but I couldn't pass up the deal.
I agree about the Iron & Oak log splitters. Top notch quality and American made. Some here as well: http://www.woodsplittersdirect.com/index.php?cPath=2 Good reviews on the Tanaka chain saws as well.
Couldn't get the 562 to start today when I got home from work. Pressed the decompression, pushed the primer bulb, pulled the choke up, gave it a couple pulls, nothing, not even an attempt to start. Put the choke down, gave it several pulls, still nothing, pulled the choke back up, gave it several pulls, nothing....Usually, when the choke is up, I give a pull or two until I hear the saw want to start, then put it down, I am getting nothing at all. So, back to the dealer I go....
Bummer, hope it's a simple fix.
Like the gas tank is empty LOL
Keep us posted with what they find.
New saw needs a review.
Ashful
Minister of Fire
Not saying this is your problem, but I always have problems using up the last of the "winter" gas in my chainsaws when warm weather hits. My observation is the same as yours, in that the saw will be running fine until I shut it down, and then I can't get it started again. Usually a 30 minute cool-down is all it takes to get going again (good reason to always carry two saws!), but it seems that's not your luck this time.
Around here, seems they're selling gas with a lower boiling point in winter than what they sell in the summer months. It causes no trouble for my string trimmer or handheld leaf blower, and is never a problem for any engine with fuel injection, but wreaks havoc on my chainsaws. I can actually hear that fuel boiling in the carburetor a few minutes after shutting a saw off. Once I get a fresh tank of summer fuel in there... no problems.
Around here, seems they're selling gas with a lower boiling point in winter than what they sell in the summer months. It causes no trouble for my string trimmer or handheld leaf blower, and is never a problem for any engine with fuel injection, but wreaks havoc on my chainsaws. I can actually hear that fuel boiling in the carburetor a few minutes after shutting a saw off. Once I get a fresh tank of summer fuel in there... no problems.
Yeah, I've been using my other saw as well as my stihl BR600 blower this spring. I mix a gallon at a time, so I am on my 3dr new gallon this year already...
Dropped it off at the dealer this morning, went over the starting procedure I used, he went in the back, came out about 10 minutes later and said "whatever it is, its not good, you have zero compression"....
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