New Pacific Energy FP30 Installation Progress Thread

[mcdougy]

Awesome. I like happy people. With that, I think I will come aboard for next winter and install a unit in our new home.

 

[saydinli]

The finishing work is finally under way. WooHoo [emoji106]

The support beam is installed in the basement just below the hearth now as well so we don't have to worry about the floor sagging with he 6000lbs of hearth sitting on it.

Here's a few pics so far. I'll have more tonight as things move along.

First 3 are the basement pics the next 3 are the hearth.

.


Sorry about the scaffolding in he way but not much I can do about that




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[begreen]

Thanks for the detailed progress pictures. Wondering about the hot air ducting from the fireplace. Is this with the remote heat transfer kit with blower in the lower vent? Will there be another vent taken off the right side of the fireplace so that there is at least one gravity fed vent? the reason I ask is about how the heat is vented in the event of a power failure.

Is the flex ducting type B vent? Is there a firestop as it passes through the floors? The framing obscures the side view. Is there a convection air intake in place?

 

[saydinli]

Thanks for the detailed progress pictures. Wondering about the hot air ducting from the fireplace. Is this with the remote heat transfer kit with blower in the lower vent? Will there be another vent taken off the right side of the fireplace so that there is at least one gravity fed vent? the reason I ask is about how the heat is vented in the event of a power failure.

Is the flex ducting type B vent? Is there a firestop as it passes through the floors? The framing obscures the side view. Is there a convection air intake in place?

Yes it's with the remote vent kit with blower fan. No other vent on the right side as it's not needed as per the manual. The chase will have a vent at the top left two feet from ceiling to release any heat that may build up in side as well as another vent on the lower right side to provide air circulation from the bottom up as well as to provide the necessary air for the remote air duct( is this what you mean by convection air intake?). There is a fire stop in the floor where the ducting passes through the floor. The ducting is Type B.

More pics will follow later. Work is still on going.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[begreen]

Thanks, that's good. I haven't been able to locate the remote kit manual, thus the questions. The vent on the lower right side sounds like the intake. Hard to see in the pics due to the angle and location. I still wonder about having a convection heat dump for when the power goes out, even if it is closed during normal operation.

 

[saydinli]

Thanks, that's good. I haven't been able to locate the remote kit manual, thus the questions. The vent on the lower right side sounds like the intake. Hard to see in the pics due to the angle and location. I still wonder about having a convection heat dump for when the power goes out, even if it is closed during normal operation.

Ok I see what you mean about a convection heat dump. I could've added it but there is nothing in the manual stating it is required. My installer is very knowledgeable about these things and I'm sure would have definitely added it if required. He's done everything to code.
I do have a generator so if I sense it would be an issue during an extended power outage I can add the blowers circuit to the generator sub panel.





Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[saydinli]

Today's accomplishment.....








More to come tomorrow as we'll be building the frame for the hearth stone in front of the fireplace.

He should be starting the stone work on Monday. [emoji4]

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[begreen]

Ok I see what you mean about a convection heat dump. I could've added it but there is nothing in the manual stating it is required. My installer is very knowledgeable about these things and I'm sure would have definitely added it if required. He's done everything to code.
I do have a generator so if I sense it would be an issue during an extended power outage I can add the blowers circuit to the generator sub panel.

Personally I don't know. A generator might help, if someone is home that knows how to run it. I'd check with PE tech support for peace of mind. You could try a pm to @thechimneysweep too.

 

[mcdougy]

Personally I don't know. A generator might help, if someone is home that knows how to run it. I'd check with PE tech support for peace of mind. You could try a pm to @thechimneysweep too.

I am not sure what you are asking these questions for exactly? I think I sense concern in your questions? Are you wondering about a power failure that the duct will get too hot without the fan running? I am wondering what the difference would be in the fan not running and the gravity vent your asking about? Not trying to be smart, just trying to get smarter. I think you may be remembering the requirements for the older model. The new model 2015 only requires the 30sq. In IF a R.H.D. Is installed.

 

[mcdougy]

Saydinilli, does the remote heat duct need supply air? If so does it say that it needs to be in the actual fireplace? Could you actually duct the supply air from a bedroom or basement? As you can tell I have not yet read the manual in my research.

 

[begreen]

I am not sure what you are asking these questions for exactly? I think I sense concern in your questions? Are you wondering about a power failure that the duct will get too hot without the fan running? I am wondering what the difference would be in the fan not running and the gravity vent your asking about? Not trying to be smart, just trying to get smarter.

Yes the concern is heat buildup and safety. The manual requires at least one gravity vent and a lower supply air connected to the fireplace. This is to prevent excessive heat build up. In the OP's setup there is no heat dump for the system if the vent loop running to the basement has no power.

 

[mcdougy]

Yes the concern is heat buildup and safety. The manual requires at least one gravity vent and a lower supply air connected to the fireplace. This is to prevent excessive heat build up. In the OP's setup there is no heat dump for the system if the vent loop running to the basement has no power.

I just glanced over the manual.....I do not see that. I only see that if you add the remote h.d. You must have a 30 sq in supply air intake to the chase. No where in the current manual that I can see that there is a requirement for a gravity heat dump or Grill of any nature. I could be wrong, but hardly ever

 

[begreen]

Thought that was odd, but now I think I see the difference. The original FP30 has this caveat on page 20:
IN U.S.A., A MINIMUM OF ONE REMOTE GRAVITY HEAT DUCT KIT MUST BE INSTALLED WITH THE FP30.
I just downloaded the FP30B fireplace manual. The remote vent section has been rewritten and the caveat has been removed.

 

[saydinli]

Saydinilli, does the remote heat duct need supply air? If so does it say that it needs to be in the actual fireplace? Could you actually duct the supply air from a bedroom or basement? As you can tell I have not yet read the manual in my research.

I see you've read the manual now and that the air duct is required . I don't see why you couldn't run a duct from an adjacent room into the chase of the fireplace for the remote duct supply air.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[saydinli]

Thought that was odd, but now I think I see the difference. The original FP30 has this caveat on page 20:
IN U.S.A., A MINIMUM OF ONE REMOTE GRAVITY HEAT DUCT KIT MUST BE INSTALLED WITH THE FP30.
I just downloaded the FP30B fireplace manual. The remote vent section has been rewritten and the caveat has been removed.

I read on PE's website somewhere I believe, that design changes were made on the FP30.

Glad we sorted it out for sure. I don't see any harm in adding the gravity dump though. Heat build up in the chase is the reason I added a second vent at the top of the chase near the ceiling to allow hot air to escape.

I'll post a pic if it later on.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Weaselfest]

Oh to have the forethought to have engineered integrating my new FP30 into my recently finished basement. No way to retrofit it, without serious investment due to the robust soundproofing efforts in the lower level. Major fail on my part, as the new wood burner has more then enough BTU output to warm the lower level and would do a far better job than trying to circulate air with the furnace. I'm sure there would have been a substantial trade off from the near bomb proof results I have now, sound wise, but the need for that is less often than the need for heat 4 months or more out of the year.

 

[mcdougy]

Oh to have the forethought to have engineered integrating my new FP30 into my recently finished basement. No way to retrofit it, without serious investment due to the robust soundproofing efforts in the lower level. Major fail on my part, as the new wood burner has more then enough BTU output to warm the lower level and would do a far better job than trying to circulate air with the furnace. I'm sure there would have been a substantial trade off from the near bomb proof results I have now, sound wise, but the need for that is less often than the need for heat 4 months or more out of the year.

Let's hear some of your thoughts....im interested. Do you think there is merit in drawing the air from another room vs from the stove room? I would like to get as much air circulating as possible. My new home build will be very tight with little air infiltration. What sort of things would you try to incorporate?

 

[begreen]

I read on PE's website somewhere I believe, that design changes were made on the FP30.

Glad we sorted it out for sure. I don't see any harm in adding the gravity dump though. Heat build up in the chase is the reason I added a second vent at the top of the chase near the ceiling to allow hot air to escape.

I'll post a pic if it later on.

Yes, looks like they made some more notable changes. Your install looks top notch. My suggestion was just for improving safety but apparently this no longer a priority with the second generation of the fireplace.

What is the round outlet for on the front wall face about 5ft above the fireplace?

 

[saydinli]

Yes, looks like they made some more notable changes. Your install looks top notch. My suggestion was just for improving safety but apparently this no longer a priority with the second generation of the fireplace.

What is the round outlet for on the front wall face about 5ft above the fireplace?

The big round outlet you see is a conduit for the HDMI cables going to the TV from the Satellite receiver, PS4 etc. It comes out at the bottom right toward the rear. It was kept away the minimum 7" clearance required from the cabinet inside.
We thought about 2" conduit but it was going to be too small to add more HDMI cables in the future so we went with a 4". I should be able to add up to 5 at a later date without a problem getting the connectors through. The smaller ones beside and below is for the sound bar that will be sitting on the mantle.
My stone guy is going to cut replacement stone pieces that will cover the holes if in the future we don't want the TV above the FP anymore.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[saydinli]

Today's progress....

Got the hearth stone framing done and the remaining cement board up.
Installed the 4 rebar that will hold the mantle in place and we put up the drywall in the basement.

We also put up 3 poly walls to keep the stone dust out of the a rest of the house. Got a lot of things done today to get ready to start the stone work on Monday.


Here are the pics.











Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Mike M.]

We have 2 gravity ducts on our FP30 (model A). I think if we ever had a power outage with a full load of wood things would get interesting real quick. I am absolutely shocked at how hot the air is that comes out of the gravity vents with the fan turned off. Our vents look like they just have normal dry wall around them. Normally with this unit I burn smaller fires, or really big wood one log at a time. When I want to run full loads all day long I use the 30NC in my basement.

 

[bfast250]

It's hard to tell for sure on my phone, but it looks like you secured the cement board to the metal studs directly above the fireplace? The manual has this note:

The cement board can be attached to the framing and to the
front of the unit outside of the dimensioned area shown by
the dotted line in Fig.#20. This will allow the cement board
and facing to float on top of the hotter area on the units upper
casing and prevent cracking.

 

[saydinli]

We have 2 gravity ducts on our FP30 (model A). I think if we ever had a power outage with a full load of wood things would get interesting real quick. I am absolutely shocked at how hot the air is that comes out of the gravity vents with the fan turned off. Our vents look like they just have normal dry wall around them. Normally with this unit I burn smaller fires, or really big wood one log at a time. When I want to run full loads all day long I use the 30NC in my basement.

I agree. If I have a decent fire going there's a pretty good difference in temps just above the blowers vents when the blowers are off compared to when they're on.

With the mantle now , I'll have to really make sure I don't forget to keep the fans running, even if just on low to keep the air moving out.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[begreen]

That's why having a heat dump made sense to me, but maybe this is no longer an issue. Is there a convection outlet slot above the door on your fireplace? If so that should vent a lot of the heat.

 

[saydinli]

That's why having a heat dump made sense to me, but maybe this is no longer an issue. Is there a convection outlet slot above the door on your fireplace? If so that should vent a lot of the heat.

The vent above the door is where the heat comes out whether the blowers are on or not. So I guess it is a convention duct as well when the fan is not on.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk