New Pacific Energy FP30 Installation Progress Thread

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Can someone explain the differences between the fp30 and the the fp30 arch. There seems to be a lack of louvres on the straight fp30. Is there a benefit of going either way?
Thanks
 
There are slots on the straight FP30, but hard to see due to the shadow line created by the top "hood". The manual illustration shows them better. There is a distinct benefit if you go with the look your wife likes the best.

[Hearth.com] New Pacific Energy FP30 Installation Progress Thread
 
There are slots on the straight FP30, but hard to see due to the shadow line created by the top "hood". The manual illustration shows them better. There is a distinct benefit if you go with the look your wife likes the best.

View attachment 191525
Ha....i know what your saying......with a lot less slot/grill on the 30 does that affect performance? I'm going to be pushing this stove non stop and need all the help i/it can get
 
I would expect that PE designed both to work well. If the house is challenging to heat then it may need more solutions like ducting the heat out or improved sealing and insulation?
 
I would expect that PE designed both to work well. If the house is challenging to heat then it may need more solutions like ducting the heat out or improved sealing and insulation?
It's going in a new house build. Insulation and air sealing will be excellent. It's the 3100 main floor SqFt is the challenge. It will be supplemental behind a f.a.f, but wanting it to do a good chunk of the work. I am considering how to duct, but with the unit on an outside wall, it limits a lot of options, besides basement drops.
 
If designing new I strongly suggest putting the fireplace in the interior and not tacked on an outside wall. There are many advantages including better heating. The other suggestion would be to avoid cathedral ceilings.
 
If designing new I strongly suggest putting the fireplace in the interior and not tacked on an outside wall. There are many advantages including better heating. The other suggestion would be to avoid cathedral ceilings.
Ha....prolly shouldn't put windows in either.......well maybe we should just live underground. But seriously, part of this dream home dream includes looking at the fire and out the windows in the same view. But thanks for the design tips.
 
If you have an open floor plan, and have the steps to second floor(if there is one) on the other end of the house from the stove room, and possibly a ceiling fan in the stove room, you may get a nice convection loop going on. I have very high cathedral ceiling, then entire house, with some rooms upstairs and a large loft, and have no issue due to the cathedral ceiling. I am not even using the ceiling fan this year, and the convection loop is doing great. I am either lucky, or there is some myth the the cathedral ceiling theory.

With that large of a space, you may want to reconsider and get the Summit insert, as it protrudes out more than those face mounts you're looking at, and will get more heated air out into the room & house easier.
 
If you have an open floor plan, and have the steps to second floor(if there is one) on the other end of the house from the stove room, and possibly a ceiling fan in the stove room, you may get a nice convection loop going on. I have very high cathedral ceiling, then entire house, with some rooms upstairs and a large loft, and have no issue due to the cathedral ceiling. I am not even using the ceiling fan this year, and the convection loop is doing great. I am either lucky, or there is some myth the the cathedral ceiling theory.

With that large of a space, you may want to reconsider and get the Summit insert, as it protrudes out more than those face mounts you're looking at, and will get more heated air out into the room & house easier.
Ok thanks, with the summit I would require a masonry "box" to allow for the insert? That would create a significant cost I'm assured. When looking at the specs....there appears to be no difference in the heat output? Possibly someone could explain if there is a difference. Also there is no second floor, just the 3100sq ft basement that will prolly have around 1600sq ft finished. The cathedral ceilings are not going to be monsterous I'm hoping to take them from the 9' walls to a 11-6' scissor.
 
You are correct McDougy - "inserts" require you to have a masonry fireplace prior to installing an insert. I agree with you - this would add a tremendous amount of extra (unnecessary) cost.

I would stay with your initial plan of zero clearance wood burning fireplace units (i.e. FP30).
 
Yah it wouldn't be worth it. My pe super insert came from a fellow who was ripping his home down and building s new one on the same lot. He was dismayed to learn that he would need to build a full masonry chimney in order to reuse his beloved insert. He sold it off to me and was buying a new pe ZC.
 
You may be able to build a box to slide it in, out of steel studs, durock and cultured stone. Not that expensive.
The ones you are looking at are flush mount, which means the heated air is not as quickly accessible to the house and an insert that sticks out some would. You def want the blower with any scenario.

Many install these in old heatform metal fireboxes. So the statement for the need for an entire masonry firebox is a bit misleading. As far as chimney, you could build a chase there, and run class a up it as you would for a stove.

If building from new, you also have the option of a freestanding, if you're considering installing a ZC, you will still have to box out around the ZC. So technically, the most economical would be freestanding, and would may be the best for getting the most heat from the unit.

Just some thoughts. You'll enjoy either way.
 
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The heatform metal fireboxs you mention are still full masonry fireplaces. I believe the reason people can install inserts into them is because there are allowances in the masonry fireplace code for the use of those metal boxes.

I don't think what you've recommended with an insert would be an approved installation unless you could get the manufacturer to provide you a letter saying it was ok.

i was under the impression mcdougy wanted a fireplace, otherwise certainly if heat distribution is most important I'd agree a freestanding stove is where it's at.
 
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I think we're splitting hairs here myself. And as long as the power is on(blowers available) the differences are going to be negligible.

You get obviously more natural transfer of heat by having more of the appliance in the room. With a freestanding stove being as 'in the room' as you can get.
 
We had asked our dealer the same questions about performance difference between the FP30 and FP30 Arch, due to the difference in louvers on the front of the unit. He claims they are identical in performance.
 
Hi folks,

Been lurking here for a few months now and finally pulled the trigger on a Pacific Energy FP30 Arch with a remote vent/blower kit to heat the rec room in the basement below.

It is being installed today and I'll update this thread as the work progresses. The fireplace is being installed now and the stone work will follow in Dec. My stone guy is going to be beefing up the floor joists in the basement by installing a 3 ply 2 x8 beam on posts (cradle), across the span, about 24" out from the back wall, to support the huge weight of stone going up the 18ft wall.

Here is the first photo of the platform it is resting on.

View attachment 187434

Here's the second with the first section of pipe installed;

View attachment 187435

Here's the 3rd with another section of pipe:

View attachment 187436

I had the PE Summit insert installed 2 months ago. It came with a broken crown molding. It has been over 2 months and dealer can't get an answer. PE hides behind an email. They won't respond. Does anyone have a phone number for this company? There is no number listed on their site. I am embarrassed for not doing more research on this company.
 
I had the PE Summit insert installed 2 months ago. It came with a broken crown molding. It has been over 2 months and dealer can't get an answer. PE hides behind an email. They won't respond. Does anyone have a phone number for this company? There is no number listed on their site. I am embarrassed for not doing more research on this company.

I don't like when companies don't make it easy to contact them, especially when they make you go through dealers exclusively leaving you at the mercy of the dealer on actually following up.

Here you go , please be aware that even though this is a official govt of Canada site there is a disclaimer about third party information liability in case any info is incorrect.

(broken link removed to http://www.ic.gc.ca/app/ccc/srch/nvgt.do;jsessionid=0001XrRWzcFhRc0DKgO_pR1ByiG:11VIIVT17Q?lang=eng&prtl=1&sbPrtl=&estblmntNo=356018890000&profile=cmpltPrfl&profileId=1921&app=sold&searchNav=F)



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PE stands behind their product, it's the dealer that is slacking.
 
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What part is the crown moulding? Just curious.

I agree with Hogwildz I bet it's your dealer or their distributor that is doing the slacking. PE's been in for the long haul and has a great reputation.
 
PE stands behind their product, it's the dealer that is slacking.


Even though I haven't had to deal with PE on an issue, everything I've heard and read about PE and their dealer/customer support has been really positive. That's one of he reasons I went with the FP30.

I just wish they would have a customer support dept that's easy to contact by phone to deal with customers that are getting screwed by poor dealer service. Just having an email address on the website that may or may not get a response doesn't cut it in my book. Being able to talk to an actual person is the proper way to support your customers. We shouldn't have to go searching for ways to contact them.



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That link you provided has a couple of numbers to try. Hopefully that will help Shwah1 get in touch with someone.
 
Even though I haven't had to deal with PE on an issue, everything I've heard and read about PE and their dealer/customer support has been really positive. That's one of he reasons I went with the FP30.

I just wish they would have a customer support dept that's easy to contact by phone to deal with customers that are getting screwed by poor dealer service. Just having an email address on the website that may or may not get a response doesn't cut it in my book. Being able to talk to an actual person is the proper way to support your customers. We shouldn't have to go searching for ways to contact them.
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Yes, their Customer Service is basically non- existent. They never reply to emails, phone messages, etc. They make you go through the dealer. Also, their, so-called warranty is about as good as the paper it is written on -- good luck getting anything fixed on warranty, as it will always be an owner-error issue, or some other excuse for correcting the problem.

This is very unfortunate for they make a great product. Their stoves are some of the best designed on the market. I still recommend them, as they are such a good product. Just be sure to get a good installer, that will back the product & the installation. If you self-install, you need to be aware that you are "on your own" & any issues will be your fault whether of not they actually are a product problem or not. If they just had good CS & stood behind the product, they would be absolute "top of the line".
 
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Well from others in the industry up here in BC I've heard the exact opposite. At one of my WETT courses last spring a distributor rep was getting razzed about how all of their PE warranty claims got the rubber stamp no matter how blatant operator misuse may have appeared. Have you had a warranty claim? I would suspect again any issues you're referring to are due to the dealer. I bought my summit new through a dealer(hardware store) that doesn't install. My warranty is certainly valid still.
 
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