First thing, you need more pipe on the outside. I would put a 4'er on if i'm going through the trouble. Do you know what kind of pipe they used? Simpson is what we use and we found that the back collar where the pipe hooks to the stove is too short and we don't get a good pipe fit. Now we put a close clearance adapter on the top of the stove and now have no problems. Unless you have single wall pipe on the inside instead of the double wall. Check all gaskets and make sure they are sealing correctly. 700 deg for a cast iron stove is way too hot, be careful you don't crack your stove. (warranty doesn't cover that) Google cast iron temps for stoves 450deg is what you want to run that thing at.
New Lopi Leyden questions
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Webby- Got the galvanized because we thought it would help the paint adhere. Installer did not offer a black SS for the exterior.
I'm hoping that with the paint, the galvanized will have a good long life. Interior is stainless. I'm calling installer today about another three feet of pipe.
Hound- Odd that you mention 450deg. being the upper limits on temp. Manual says 800deg. is overfiring. Also, this temp was measured at the back of the stove. Over the door like the manual states is at least 100-150deg. cooler. Curious about this. I definitely don't want to crack anything. Anyone?
Not sure what brand of pipe we used. Double wall in the inside.
Are you getting consistant secondary burns with your leyden? You might have guessed I'm hit and miss.
I'm hoping that with the paint, the galvanized will have a good long life. Interior is stainless. I'm calling installer today about another three feet of pipe.
Hound- Odd that you mention 450deg. being the upper limits on temp. Manual says 800deg. is overfiring. Also, this temp was measured at the back of the stove. Over the door like the manual states is at least 100-150deg. cooler. Curious about this. I definitely don't want to crack anything. Anyone?
Not sure what brand of pipe we used. Double wall in the inside.
Are you getting consistant secondary burns with your leyden? You might have guessed I'm hit and miss.
Is it possible your smoke is entering during reloading? If it is, the following suggestions may be helpfull. I have a Leyden as well, and I find it difficult to reload the stove (from the top) without letting a trace amount of smoke into the room. This smoke can not be seen but you can sure smell it. I would not say that it has ever been overpowering, but it could be a nuicance if the wood was smelly. But there a few things you can do to eliminate much of the smoke if its entering during reloads. First, you must be sure the bypass is open when you reload. Second, open the air control all the way for a few minutes before reloading, I find this establishes good draft, then, right before opening the top of the stove, close the air control all the way and slowly open the top, this makes the stove suck more from the top during your reload. Avoid reloading when the wood is so low that the stove is only warm to the touch, the heat is gone at that point and so is the draft. You should be able to see a vigorous draft routing up the rear of the stove. I find that many times, without that "vigorous draft" the top can only be opened 1/2 to 3/4 without smoke entering the room. So I've learned to leave the bypass and air control all the way open to establish a hot chimney and good draft, then I shut down the air, and as I reload, I quickly open and close the hood to allow as little as possible into the house, I don't leave it open the entire time I reload.
Howdy,
Listen, I just installed a Lopi Leyden wood stove on New Years Day (2010) and went through the same learning curve you did. I too slept near the stove the first couple of nights because I didn't trust it (never had a wood stove before). Anyway, all of your temps are fine. When the stove is operating at max heat output, the top door is around 500-550 deg F. The rear flue will be substantially higher (650-750 deg F.). If your rear combustion area starts glowing red you are over-firing the stove. I find that if you bring up the temperature gradually, you can get this stove incredibly hot. Regarding your smoke problem, I suspect you may have installation issues. Your chimney definitely needs to be AT LEAST two feet higher than any portion of the house within ten feet. Since your installer didn't follow that basic rule, I'd be concerned that he didn't follow other instructions.
1) Did he maintain the proper clearance to combustibles when exiting through the roof (sheathing, tar paper, shingles, etc.)?
2) Was the correct flashing installed (ventilated/non ventilated)?
You should have no smell once the stove is up to temp and is running hot. My neighbor doesn't believe I am actually using my stove when I see outside (it burns that nicely).
I hope you resolve your problem soon... :coolsmile:
Listen, I just installed a Lopi Leyden wood stove on New Years Day (2010) and went through the same learning curve you did. I too slept near the stove the first couple of nights because I didn't trust it (never had a wood stove before). Anyway, all of your temps are fine. When the stove is operating at max heat output, the top door is around 500-550 deg F. The rear flue will be substantially higher (650-750 deg F.). If your rear combustion area starts glowing red you are over-firing the stove. I find that if you bring up the temperature gradually, you can get this stove incredibly hot. Regarding your smoke problem, I suspect you may have installation issues. Your chimney definitely needs to be AT LEAST two feet higher than any portion of the house within ten feet. Since your installer didn't follow that basic rule, I'd be concerned that he didn't follow other instructions.
1) Did he maintain the proper clearance to combustibles when exiting through the roof (sheathing, tar paper, shingles, etc.)?
2) Was the correct flashing installed (ventilated/non ventilated)?
You should have no smell once the stove is up to temp and is running hot. My neighbor doesn't believe I am actually using my stove when I see outside (it burns that nicely).
I hope you resolve your problem soon... :coolsmile:
hothead, thanks for the reply. I look forward to your advice in the future with this stove.
As for the smoky/hazy house, I'm sure it was due to my flue temps at that time. I was cranking and didn't have the temp. probe yet. Knowing what I know now, that temp. was way too high.
Since I installed an extra 3ft. of exterior flue, things have been working much better. As most first timers, I'm drying my wood out as best I can. That seemed to give me fits. Backpuffing was an issue, but that is getting better also. The operator is learning.
As for the installer, I was surprised when I saw how low the initial flue install was. I was home when they did everything else and even have a few pics of the isntallation process.
They missed the sidewall clearance next to the stove by 1inch. Not sure how big of a deal that is.
As for the smoky/hazy house, I'm sure it was due to my flue temps at that time. I was cranking and didn't have the temp. probe yet. Knowing what I know now, that temp. was way too high.
Since I installed an extra 3ft. of exterior flue, things have been working much better. As most first timers, I'm drying my wood out as best I can. That seemed to give me fits. Backpuffing was an issue, but that is getting better also. The operator is learning.
As for the installer, I was surprised when I saw how low the initial flue install was. I was home when they did everything else and even have a few pics of the isntallation process.
They missed the sidewall clearance next to the stove by 1inch. Not sure how big of a deal that is.
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