New Lopi Flush Large Next Gen

[Dmitry]

So what was the MC of the wood your burning.. are you having trouble with the moisture meter.. Have you experimented with burning dry wood yet.. just wondering

If he wasn't in Australia I would send the guy a moisture meter. LOL. He cracked me up saying"

"For the record, I have been using dry paper and dry cardboard and dry wood and dry air. I am not sure what else I am supposed to say. "

 

[Woodsplitter67]

If he wasn't in Australia I would send the guy a moisture meter. LOL. He cracked me up saying"

"For the record, I have been using dry paper and dry cardboard and dry wood and dry air. I am not sure what else I am supposed to say. "

I fined it mind boggling that people come on a site like this and ask for advice, and help because there stuff doesn't work and dont actually take it. It cant be my wood, it has to be my draft.. Im convinced of it, it has to be the stove, not what im putting in it. It cant be user error at all, its the manual.

 

[Hya]

I’m new to both this forum and wood burning. It would have been so helpful to know if he was actually having issues with unit or wood moisture issue. I’m looking to purchase this unit and looking for reviews on unit. My first action to task is purchasing a MC meter and test before every burn.
will start a new thread but looking to reduce fireplace size and install insert.

 

[Dmitry]

I’m new to both this forum and wood burning. It would have been so helpful to know if he was actually having issues with unit or wood moisture issue. I’m looking to purchase this unit and looking for reviews on unit. My first action to task is purchasing a MC meter and test before every burn.
will start a new thread but looking to reduce fireplace size and install insert.

Or if you are serious about wood burning , you can put free standing stove in there. More efficient and convenient to heat. The only thing , you boss lady might not like the look.

 

[Dmitry]

I’m new to both this forum and wood burning. It would have been so helpful to know if he was actually having issues with unit or wood moisture issue. I’m looking to purchase this unit and looking for reviews on unit. My first action to task is purchasing a MC meter and test before every burn.
will start a new thread but looking to reduce fireplace size and install insert.

You can use them to stack the wood later

 

[Hya]

Or if you are serious about wood burning , you can put free standing stove in there. More efficient and convenient to heat. The only thing , you boss lady might not like the look.

She does not like the look and safety. Active kids

 

[Woodsplitter67]

I’m new to both this forum and wood burning. It would have been so helpful to know if he was actually having issues with unit or wood moisture issue. I’m looking to purchase this unit and looking for reviews on unit. My first action to task is purchasing a MC meter and test before every burn.
will start a new thread but looking to reduce fireplace size and install insert.

Hello and welcome. You will not need to test your wood every time you load. Just test some random pieces through the stack and you should know where your at. If your thinking of putting in a wood burning unit then get your wood now if you already haven't. Good wood is the key to a great experience. When I got into wood heating I had a shed and wood before I had my stove installed..

 

[Dmitry]

She does not like the look and safety. Active kids

Make them stack the wood.
And get your wood early. I can see you are in CT. Never ever I got seasoned wood in CT. They called it seasoned if it was split couple months ago. It's always too wet to burn.

 

[Hya]

Make them stack the wood.
And get your wood early. I can see you are in CT. Never ever I got seasoned wood in CT. They called it seasoned if it was split couple months ago. It's always too wet to burn.

Yes. Some guys split the wood and leave them in huge piles then claims it’s seasoned within a couple months of discoloration. I’ll be checking every time I’m about to burn. I’m in the process of learning to split with an Ariens splitter but have to weld a 4way for more efficiency. I have way too many logs to split.

 

[Hya]

Hello and welcome. You will not need to test your wood every time you load. Just test some random pieces through the stack and you should know where your at. If your thinking of putting in a wood burning unit then get your wood now if you already haven't. Good wood is the key to a great experience. When I got into wood heating I had a shed and wood before I had my stove installed..

Thanks. Same here. I began splitting last year. Also ordered 1/2 cord of 3 year dry oak. I did a few small fires last year for aesthetics and learning. I ordered moisture meter and hoping to get new insert by end of this year.

 

[Dmitry]

If you gonna cut and split before installing insert would be nice to know what size of wood is optimal for you insert. 20 is ideal for mine. Most take 18 or 16. So check it out. Youll have longer fires

 

[Hya]

If you gonna cut and split before installing insert would be nice to know what size of wood is optimal for you insert. 20 is ideal for mine. Most take 18 or 16. So check it out. Youll have longer fires

Very good to know. My tree guy cut all logs down to an average of 18”. He was very precise and took him and his crew an extra week cutting wood. Nice guy. Also did my brother’s property clearing 1.5 acre

 

[Woodsplitter67]

what insert are u looking at

 

[Hya]

what insert are u looking at

Lopi Large Flush, Regency CI2700, Blaze King Insert (biggest)

 

[begreen]

Lopi Large Flush, Regency CI2700, Blaze King Insert (biggest)

These are inserts. From the other thread, a ZC fireplace is what is required for this installation.

 

[Hya]

These are inserts. From the other thread, a ZC fireplace is what is required for this installation.

I will look into ZC fireplace. I’m hoping it will be low maintenance. We both work 10hrs daily and looking to not load wood more than 2 times when in use.

 

[Woodsplitter67]

my friend got the large flush hybrid fyre last year and did great with it. I sold him a little over 2 cords of my wood and the stove ran great. Hes in a 2 story colonial and did an insulated liner. Right from the get go the stove ran perfectly. He used the same.stove shop as me also and they have a great reputation for price as well.as installation. I know a few contractors that use them also. His stove burns clean and the glass stays clear his burn times are as advertised and Travis industries is a good company. I looked at lopi myself when I was looking at stoves.

 

[Hya]

my friend got the large flush hybrid fyre last year and did great with it. I sold him a little over 2 cords of my wood and the stove ran great. Hes in a 2 story colonial and did an insulated liner. Right from the get go the stove ran perfectly. He used the same.stove shop as me also and they have a great reputation for price as well.as installation. I know a few contractors that use them also. His stove burns clean and the glass stays clear his burn times are as advertised and Travis industries is a good company. I looked at lopi myself when I was looking at stoves.

Thanks Woodsplitter67. Nice of you to share your friend experience with Lopi. I personally have never seen one and hoping to visit Lopi dealer near me on Tuesday. I just went on the epa site to double check the stats and they do have good numbers. I appreciate your input.

 

[Silversniper]

Ok so I have now been using the Lopi for a few weeks and results have improved, but still not to the point where I am totally happy with it.

The main issue with the fire being hard to start has been overcome to an extent by using pine over hardwood, and that continues into the burn as well. In fact, using pine has been the single biggest difference in the unit’s performance .

I put this down to the extra flames that are generated by pine, which seem to really boost the secondary burn created at the air tubes when the primary flame hits those tubes. It really performs differently than with the lower flame hardwood.

In terms of output, I am still unimpressed by the heat and I am having to crank the fan up to loud hairdryer levels to get our small lounge to 78* . This was never an issue with the open fire it replaced, which could easily get that room ultra hot when it was firing.

I am going to get the block off plate or shield installed asap, when the installer can make it - hopefully that will improve output noting the low lintel clearance and hot masonry issues I have previously discussed.

 

[Woodsplitter67]

Ok so I have now been using the Lopi for a few weeks and results have improved, but still not to the point where I am totally happy with it.

The main issue with the fire being hard to start has been overcome to an extent by using pine over hardwood, and that continues into the burn as well. In fact, using pine has been the single biggest difference in the unit’s performance .

I put this down to the extra flames that are generated by pine, which seem to really boost the secondary burn created at the air tubes when the primary flame hits those tubes. It really performs differently than with the lower flame hardwood.

In terms of output, I am still unimpressed by the heat and I am having to crank the fan up to loud hairdryer levels to get our small lounge to 78* . This was never an issue with the open fire it replaced, which could easily get that room ultra hot when it was firing.

I am going to get the block off plate or shield installed asap, when the installer can make it - hopefully that will improve output noting the low lintel clearance and hot masonry issues I have previously discussed.

you should check the moisture on the harwoods. Your wood is most likely wet. Pine has less BTUs per cord so its nearly impossible to get more heat out of something that has less BTUs VS a hardwood with more BTUs. Hardwood will range from 18 to 23 million BTUs per cord. But you will not seet this if the wood is wet hence your problem with hardwood.. Pine has less BTUs per cord its has on the average 16 .milloin but will dry faster and most likely why your having some success with it.. Post The MC of your hardwood.. on a fresh split face and post it.. your stove isn't the issue.. its the operator..

 

[Dmitry]

you should check the moisture on the harwoods. Your wood is most likely wet. Pine has less BTUs per cord so its nearly impossible to get more heat out of something that has less BTUs VS a hardwood with more BTUs. Hardwood will range from 18 to 23 million BTUs per cord. But you will not seet this if the wood is wet hence your problem with hardwood.. Pine has less BTUs per cord its has on the average 16 .milloin but will dry faster and most likely why your having some success with it.. Post The MC of your hardwood.. on a fresh split face and post it.. your stove isn't the issue.. its the operator..

I gave up suggesting checking MC to OP. OP does not believe in moisture meters.
Hey, Silversniper. If you are refusing to use a moisture meter you can buy compressed logs or biobricks and try them.
something like this:
(broken link removed to http://ecofriendlysolutions.com.au/Ekologs/)

 

[Woodsplitter67]

The main issue with the fire being hard to start has been overcome to an extent by using pine over hardwood, and that continues into the burn as well. In fact, using pine has been the single biggest difference in the unit’s performance .

I put this down to the extra flames that are generated by pine, which seem to really boost the secondary burn created at the air tubes when the primary flame hits those tubes. It really performs differently than with the lower flame hardwood.

Just a heads up your stove will be putting out less heat because pine has a lower BTUs per cord. In shoulder season we use lower BTU wood so we don't over heat the house. When its cold outside and we need more heat perload we use wood with more BTUs like hard wood. Your description of your harwood fire is very telling when you tell us hardwood has less flames then the pine, your telling us that your wood is somewhat smoldering. We all know that hardwoods have plenty of flames to them.... your Literally telling me your wood is wet with out knowing it. Your stove doesnt know difference between the species of wood.. its not a child that likes Vanilla or chocolate. The only thing the stove knows is weather or not the wood what ever species is dry enough to burn correctly.
Your observations of your stove is completely incorrect.. its dosent prefer pine.. its prefers DRY WOOD. You couldn't be any more wrong with your observations.. You didn't do a test between hardwood and pine you did a test between wet wood and dry wood and your not smart enough to figure that out. So what Im saying to you.. again test your wood because everything your saying here is suggesting that some of your wood is subpar. If you cant test your wood and dont want to take the advice from the people your seeking help from .. maybe its time to move on and not bother posting any updates and just let this thread die.

The boost in your stoves performance is not from using pine.. its using.. DRY WOOD..

 

[Silversniper]

Thanks I should have noted I am using a mix of pine and hardwood once the fire is underway.

Also, I checked the manual and it confirms my observations about needing lots of flame for it to burn effectively. It says:

The pilot provides a small amount of air that burns up through the fuel load providing the heat and flame needed for the secondary system to ignite. The air tubes under the baffle need to remain lit off for low burns to be effective.
 As you load your heater for a low burn, take care in placing the wood. This will affect how well your secondary system works as the wood is consumed. Do not block the pilot orifice. Stack wood so the pilot air can burn its way up between the pieces, helping your heater burn effectively throughout the low fire. This will reduce the visible emissions your heater produces and increase the amount of heat you get from the wood.


For those reasons, the type of fuel used (as opposed to moisture content) makes a big difference. More so than I expected. If I have a steady fire going, it produces more heat and secondary burn, when I am using fuel that produces high flame levels and keeps the tubes lit, than using a higher density fuel (dense hardwood) with less flame output that only results in primary burns.

So thanks to people that posted here and suggested looking into the fuel issues first.

But, I am still underwhelmed by overall heat output and still hoping the block off plate/insulation will improve it to the level I was hoping for.

 

[Woodsplitter67]

Thanks I should have noted I am using a mix of pine and hardwood once the fire is underway.

I should also add that the type of fuel used (as opposed to moisture content) makes a big difference. More so than I expected. So thanks to people that posted here and suggested looking into the fuel issues first.

again its not the type of fuel.. the stove is not a child that likes either vanilla or chocolate.. the stove has no idea the spices of wood your putting in it.. its running better because the wood is dryer and is not smoldering.. The only difference between your pine and your hardwood is that your pine IS DRYER and actually burns.. why dont you try a sub 20% MC hardwood and see how that burns.. bet you it will burn better than the pine.. give off a lot more heat and burn longer..

 

[Dmitry]

again its not the type of fuel.. the stove is not a child that likes either vanilla or chocolate.. the stove has no idea the spices of wood your putting in it.. its running better because the wood is dryer and is not smoldering.. The only difference between your pine and your hardwood is that your pine IS DRYER and actually burns.. why dont you try a sub 20% MC hardwood and see how that burns.. bet you it will burn better than the pine.. give off a lot more heat and burn longer..

Woodsplitter , just give up, please . I did.