New Install: Pacific Alderlea T6 or Jotul F55

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
  • Hope everyone has a wonderful and warm Thanksgiving!
  • Super Cedar firestarters 30% discount Use code Hearth2024 Click here
I always thought that there was some cross-polination between Enviro and PE or an engineer switched. The two factories are quite close to each other. The Kodiak had the linked secondary air control, just like the PE Super.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Kodiak
Ok, so im getting ready to mortar my tilesfor my hearth pad...but I am installiong an OAK. The manual shows both the down and out way and the horizontal way. Is cutting a hole in hearth pad ok? I thought the hearth pad would need to be continuous? Is there a chance that embers could go down into my OAK opening? Should i just keep hearth pad solid ( not drill or cut a hole in it) and just run the OAK out the back wall horizontizally and then outside?

I guess the short version of what im asking is...Is it safeto have a hole in the middle of my hearth pad for my OAK?
 
Interesting thought!
I'd say that in principle if the OAK pipe is metal, there's no issue as the ember protection will be continuous.
 
  • Like
Reactions: begreen
Agreed. Connected with rigid or flexible metal ducting, it's a non-issue.
 
  • Like
Reactions: BKVP
Ok. Right on. Good feedback. I guess I’m over thinking it. I guess I had visions of a random small ember getting out the front of the stove when the door is open, going under the stove , and then nestling itself between the opening and the oak pipe where there could be a small chance of it igniting….i mean theoretically maybe?

I just recall someone years ago saying,…“think carefully before you invite fire into your home. “
 
  • Like
Reactions: GG Woody
Getting ready to install. We will need to use an elbow indoors to align the outdoor pipe further away from a higher adjacent roof to keep it 10ft away. If we do the straight shot we’d have to add approx 6-8ft more pipe. I’d prefer the straight shot for cleaning ease but it would be way to high to get at. Is the elbow really an issue when it comes draft? The elbow will be indoors and approx 10 feet above the stove. Indoor ceiling height is 12 feet. Overall chimney height is 18-20 feet. Seems like that’s plenty of length for draft to overcome the one elbow.

Cleaning will be trickier with the elbow. Guess a top down from exterior to elbow and then a bottom up to elbow from inside with flexible brush. How do I clean out the elbow without removing it? Or is a 45 steep enough to let the debris and ash fall down enough? I do t want creosote or anything accumulating in the elbow after cleaning.

Again , I’m probably over thinking it but let me know what comments you guys have on any of that. Thanks.
 
It would be easier to visualize with a drawing and maybe a site picture.
 
Getting ready to install. We will need to use an elbow indoors to align the outdoor pipe further away from a higher adjacent roof to keep it 10ft away. If we do the straight shot we’d have to add approx 6-8ft more pipe. I’d prefer the straight shot for cleaning ease but it would be way to high to get at. Is the elbow really an issue when it comes draft? The elbow will be indoors and approx 10 feet above the stove. Indoor ceiling height is 12 feet. Overall chimney height is 18-20 feet. Seems like that’s plenty of length for draft to overcome the one elbow.

Cleaning will be trickier with the elbow. Guess a top down from exterior to elbow and then a bottom up to elbow from inside with flexible brush. How do I clean out the elbow without removing it? Or is a 45 steep enough to let the debris and ash fall down enough? I do t want creosote or anything accumulating in the elbow after cleaning.

Again , I’m probably over thinking it but let me know what comments you guys have on any of that. Thanks.
Use 45s or 30s if you can.
 
I’m about to commit to my hearth pad depth. I’m not including the ash lip in my required 18” ( Canada ) from stove opening to edge of hearth pad. Can someone please tell me the actual ash lip depth for the t6. Thankyou.

PS. We are also going for a straight shot from chimney stove collar all the way to roof deck (14 ft) then the elbow ideally a 45, and another 6-8 ft to get above the nearest roof line. The elbow moves the alignment away from an adjacent higher roof as well to meet the minimum 10 ft away. I’ll post some pics later so it’ll make sense for those interested.
 
Oh yeah, the nice thing is that we wont have any elbow indoors which imo is more pleasing. And if needed leaves the elbow cleaning outdoors and the mess out there if ever needed to remove it for some reason.
 
Stove arrived today. Installing tomorrow. Pretty excited. I’m darn impressed with how great this stove looks, it’s really aesthetically pleasing. It looks good in the photos but it’s real nice in person.

Ill look for articles on how to do the first few burns properly this weekend.

Cheers yall.
 
  • Like
Reactions: EbS-P
I think there will be instructions in the manual for initial (and normal later...) fires.

Do read the manual first..
 
  • Like
Reactions: Kodiak
Is anybody aware or able to comment on clearance of my heat pump to my OAK of my Woodstove on the exterior wall. IE : my oak is going to be relatively close , around 36-48 inches. Does this matter?
 
I think not, in particular if the heat pump is not blowing directly toward (or past) the OAK inlet.

You don't seem to be in a dry dusty climate; in very dry weather my heatpump can create some dust, and I'd avoid sucking in more dust into the oak then one has to - but I suspect that's not an issue for you.
 
Wow that was quick response, thankyou!

Correct, the heat pump blows away from the house into free space away from the OAK. And yes, we are a fairly wet climate but we are far enough north that we get influenced by the drier climate, we are a bit inland so it can get to -20 deg Celsius regularly between now and early March.

Sounds like a non issue for heat pump. I just da thought so but wanted to be sure.
 
  • Like
Reactions: stoveliker
Update: install complete today and first break in fire is cooling down. 3 small to medium splits , max temp on stove top 450. Peaked after 3 hours now coaling. Draft seems good. So far so good. Looks great and the install went good. OAK is insulated in the heated basement for condensation management. Gonna do a second burn in fire tonight.
 
Update on the new t6:
It’s great. Good draft, even at 1-3 degrees Celsius. Getting easy 8-10 hour burns with medium sized loads. I’ve burned a few days around the clock with medium loads and heats the whole house well. Our air handler from the heat pump does a good job moving the air and heat around , very happy about that. I did a couple fires with full loads and got the stove hot hot hot. Paint cured on those fires for sure. I thought I had burned it hot enough to finish that but I guess not. The SST is showing 650 is the best feeling fire to me. That’s when I am really feel the heat. The cast iron I think plays a role in the feel of the heat. With the step 4 insulation and build I think we will easily heat the house with just the stove. Heat pump hasn’t turned on once yet. Looking forward to getting into the real cold weather and see how it goes. Over all I’m very happy.

Oh and our diy hearth turned out great. No cracks and the OAK is clean and tight install.

Final thoughts are to get a temp probe for the flue gases. I’m thinking I’m fine with an analogue dial gauge vs a digital. Any recommendations out there of a quality one? And I just drill a small hole through my stove pipe?
 
  • Like
Reactions: EbS-P and GG Woody