New house, Old furnace, New Plan.

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I apologize for stirring up a hornets nest here, I didn't intend for this to turn into a debate over what furnace is better. I was more looking for guidance on the soundness of my plan to get by with the Tundra until I can afford the Kumma. The info about the issue with Tundra is good to know. Thank you to all who have contributed. Let me throw a third option out there for discussion. How much would I gain in performance If I were to line the fire box of my current furnace with fire brick. Would there be a noticeable gain in efficiency?
 
It's doubtful you will see much improvement. With the furnace not having a heat exchanger, you will slow the amount of heat that's transferred to the walls. Lining could improve combustion, but without preheated air, there's only so much that can be done.
 
I apologize for stirring up a hornets nest here, I didn't intend for this to turn into a debate over what furnace is better. I was more looking for guidance on the soundness of my plan to get by with the Tundra until I can afford the Kumma.
Nah, no worries, we are all regulars on here, it's February, the natives are just gettin restless. ::-)
You have a good plan there...carry on
 
Nah, no worries, we are all regulars on here, it's February, the natives are just gettin restless. ::-)
You have a good plan there...carry on

Cool. I understand cabin fever, haha. I am honored to be among such good company. You guys carry on as well. I'm enjoying the conversation and learning a lot.
 
I apologize for stirring up a hornets nest here, I didn't intend for this to turn into a debate over what furnace is better. I was more looking for guidance on the soundness of my plan to get by with the Tundra until I can afford the Kumma. The info about the issue with Tundra is good to know. Thank you to all who have contributed. Let me throw a third option out there for discussion. How much would I gain in performance If I were to line the fire box of my current furnace with fire brick. Would there be a noticeable gain in efficiency?

Don't get me wrong I'm not saying which is better because there is no unit that is best for everyone. I just don't like how sbi put out a unit that was dangerous and was so ho hum about it. And for a company that has made tens or hundreds of thousands of units they should have known better. I am a bit of a grudge holder so I will always have doubts with the company. I do think the caddy is a very good unit and sbi makes them. I also thought it was brilliant on their part to come on the forums and ask us nut cases what we would want or not in a furnace.
 
I will have to give the Caddy a good looking over. Had not checked them out yet.
HD version of the Tundra basically. Priced about halfway between Tundra and Kuuma
 
PSG advertises the Caddy starting price a $3.999 (still out of my price range for the moment), Does any one know if this include the blower box? The closest dealer is over 100 miles from me, a bit of a drive to just window shop but I would like to lay my eyes on one of these.
 
PSG advertises the Caddy starting price a $3.999 (still out of my price range for the moment), Does any one know if this include the blower box? The closest dealer is over 100 miles from me, a bit of a drive to just window shop but I would like to lay my eyes on one of these.
Must be with blower, I seen them at the local dealer a year or two ago for ~$2800 without blower
 
Must be with blower, I seen them at the local dealer a year or two ago for ~$2800 without blower

OK, I will have to call around a little and see what the prices are around here. One other question, with the Caddy is a professional install required for warranty purposes ?
 
Yeah I believe so since you can only buy from dealer...but could be wrong on that
 
OK, I will have to call around a little and see what the prices are around here. One other question, with the Caddy is a professional install required for warranty purposes ?

PSG has changed their views on their warrantys. If it's installed by a certified dealer, labor costs are covered for replacement parts, otherwise if installed by a homeowner, no labor costs. The furnaces are built well and parts are easily replaceable.

If your central furnace is in good shape, then a Caddy can be installed without the blower in series with the central furnace. No backdraft dampers, just a simple duct to tie the two together and an interlock. Otherwise it's a stand alone install or parallel.
 
PSG has changed their views on their warrantys. If it's installed by a certified dealer, labor costs are covered for replacement parts, otherwise if installed by a homeowner, no labor costs. The furnaces are built well and parts are easily replaceable.

If your central furnace is in good shape, then a Caddy can be installed without the blower in series with the central furnace. No backdraft dampers, just a simple duct to tie the two together and an interlock. Otherwise it's a stand alone install or parallel.


Great info! Do you know about what I should expect to pay for the Caddy from a dealer?
 
I really haven't a clue. I think the manufacturer lists their prices high, and the dealers usually come in under them. I would expect a Caddy without a blower to come in around $3000, but I could be wrong.
 
I apologize for stirring up a hornets nest here, I didn't intend for this to turn into a debate over what furnace is better. I was more looking for guidance on the soundness of my plan to get by with the Tundra until I can afford the Kumma. The info about the issue with Tundra is good to know. Thank you to all who have contributed. Let me throw a third option out there for discussion. How much would I gain in performance If I were to line the fire box of my current furnace with fire brick. Would there be a noticeable gain in efficiency?
I can tell you that I converted a wood stove to have heated secondary air injection. The original build (1960's) included a flue bypass. The added secondary air was directed to the exit point of the primary firebox. This is where the exhaust took a turn and passed across the top and then back again to the round flue outlet. In addition, I did add firebrick to the primary firebox. That rascal burned plenty hot and smoked zero after switching the bypass. So it was a bonafide updraft gasser. Unfortunately it was originally designed as non-airtight. Therefore fire control was lost once it got hot, steel tends to warp when it is glowing red. If I had converted the loading door to airtight. that unit woulda been the cats ars. Instead, I scrapped it and got an Eko.
 
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