New Furnace Day: Drolet Heat Commander

[SpaceBus]

I've spent a disturbing amount of time peering in at the control shutters with a flashlight, trying to figure out the operating logic.

It seems that the "grill" shutter that feeds the ash pan grate opens about 30% during a reload and initial firing, closes completely for the main part of the burn, then opens progressively once temps drop during the coaling phase.

The primary air shutter is a lot more active, handling most of the fine adjustment, while the secondary supply is always fully open.

Seems to work well, whatever they did! :-D

Sounds like the way I run my cookstove, only using the bottom air to start the stove or when I'm down to coals and need to finish cooking or baking something. Sounds like an awesome setup and more automated than I expected.

 

[Matt78]

Here are some pics of the coals burning down. I filled this thing about 3/4 full around 8am!

 

[Matt78]

I wonder if the grate will hold up to heat on the HC?

As I took the firebricks out for moving into basement. I thought man the grate seems pretty hefty. Now I know why. If it doesn't I'm making one from a chunk of steel at work!

 

[trx250r87]

Here are some pics of the coals burning down. I filled this thing about 3/4 full around 8am!

I must be doing something wrong. Don't get me wrong, I get plenty of heat, more so than my T1, but I don't get a ton of secondary flames and my burn times are not super impressive every time.

I have been experimenting with loading larger pieces of wood East/West at the back of the firebox and packing them right together, then a few loose pieces criss cross or log cabin style in front where I rake the hot coals.

All has been great in this weather. I'm not trying to rush the cold weather but I excited to see what the HC can do when temps fall below zero!



Eric

 

[Matt78]

I must be doing something wrong. Don't get me wrong, I get plenty of heat, more so than my T1, but I don't get a ton of secondary flames and my burn times are not super impressive every time.

I have been experimenting with loading larger pieces of wood East/West at the back of the firebox and packing them right together, then a few loose pieces criss cross or log cabin style in front where I rake the hot coals.

All has been great in this weather. I'm not trying to rush the cold weather but I excited to see what the HC can do when temps fall below zero!



Eric

Is your wood good and dry? I'm sure you've checked it. Mine is around 15% to 17%. I get probably most secondary burn after temps are met in the house it seems. I'm sure we'll all figure this HC out better. I'm far from any kind of expert!

 

[brenndatomu]

I must be doing something wrong. Don't get me wrong, I get plenty of heat, more so than my T1, but I don't get a ton of secondary flames and my burn times are not super impressive every time.

There normally isn't much active flame left by the time you get to the coaling stage...a little bit sometimes...depends on wood species, and luck of the draw more than anything I'd say...it does seem like certain model stoves do have a greater tendency for it than others though too...

 

[trx250r87]

Is your wood good and dry? I'm sure you've checked it. Mine is around 15% to 17%. I get probably most secondary burn after temps are met in the house it seems. I'm sure we'll all figure this HC out better. I'm far from any kind of expert!

I would say it's as dry if not more dry as the wood I burnt in my T1 and it had awesome secondary flames! I have not measured it using the "free" moisture meter supplied with the HC.

Eric

 

[Matt78]

I would say it's as dry if not more dry as the wood I burnt in my T1 and it had awesome secondary flames! I have not measured it using the "free" moisture meter supplied with the HC.

Eric

Haha I couldn't not use it!

 

[trx250r87]

Haha I couldn't not use it!

OK, I just grabbed a piece of super dry maple that I scored about a month ago. I split it with my trusty Fiskars X27 and measured the inside using the moisture meter supplied by SBI. As you can see by the photo 12.3% which is about as dry as it gets! This stuff starts with minimal kindling and effort yet my secondaries are nothing special. Heat output is great though and my manual key damper gets shut about 85%.

Eric

 

[FixedGearFlyer]

OK, I just grabbed a piece of super dry maple that I scored about a month ago. I split it with my trusty Fiskars X27 and measured the inside using the moisture meter supplied by SBI. As you can see by the photo 12.3% which is about as dry as it gets! This stuff starts with minimal kindling and effort yet my secondaries are nothing special. Heat output is great though and my manual key damper gets shut about 85%.

Eric

I'd still like to see you measure your draft numbers. Knowing what a change from -.06" W.C. to -.04" W.C. did for improving my secondary engagement and burn longevity, I would think your high heat/low secondary/short burn time issues could likely be over drafting, even if it's just a little high.

 

[brenndatomu]

I'd still like to see you measure your draft numbers. Knowing what a change from -.06" W.C. to -.04" W.C. did for improving my secondary engagement and burn longevity, I would think your high heat/low secondary/short burn time issues could likely be over drafting, even if it's just a little high.

Yup, a small adjustment can make a big difference when you actually have a manometer on it...here's one for under $30 shipped
(broken link removed to https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dwyer-Mark-II-Manometer/193785058904?hash=item2d1e7d5658:g:lZwAAOSwk2lfzSKu)

 

[Matt78]

I'd still like to see you measure your draft numbers. Knowing what a change from -.06" W.C. to -.04" W.C. did for improving my secondary engagement and burn longevity, I would think your high heat/low secondary/short burn time issues could likely be over drafting, even if it's just a little high.

I was just thinking the same. My draft is around -.04 to -.05 probably closer to -.04 I did just notice I kept some coals around the grate after raking them. That made a huge difference for the secondaries when the air come from grate after pushing the green button!

 

[Matt78]

OK, I just grabbed a piece of super dry maple that I scored about a month ago. I split it with my trusty Fiskars X27 and measured the inside using the moisture meter supplied by SBI. As you can see by the photo 12.3% which is about as dry as it gets! This stuff starts with minimal kindling and effort yet my secondaries are nothing special. Heat output is great though and my manual key damper gets shut about 85%.

Eric

Yes that's nice and dry!!

 

[brenndatomu]

OK, I just grabbed a piece of super dry maple that I scored about a month ago. I split it with my trusty Fiskars X27 and measured the inside using the moisture meter supplied by SBI. As you can see by the photo 12.3% which is about as dry as it gets! This stuff starts with minimal kindling and effort yet my secondaries are nothing special. Heat output is great though and my manual key damper gets shut about 85%.

Eric

Yes that's nice and dry!!

Might be "too dry"...at least as far as getting good secondary burn later in the cycle...really dry wood tends to off-gas hard, right off the bat...then not so much later on...a big show, with no grand finale...

 

[Matt78]

My be "too dry"...at least as far as getting good secondary burn later in the cycle...really dry wood tends to off-gas hard, right off the bat...then not so much later on...a big show, with no grand finale...

Well crap man!

 

[brenndatomu]

Well crap man!

Still makes great heat though!

 

[Matt78]

Eric

After I get my new manometer I'll give you my Dwyer mark II. Just pay for shipping and I'll send it to ya man!

(broken link removed to https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dwyer-Mark-II-Manometer/193785058904?hash=item2d1e7d5658:g:lZwAAOSwk2lfzSKu)

 

[trx250r87]

I have well seasoned red oak I have been mixing in as well. I do have a Dwyer Mark II connected after my manual damper and it reads super high, usually between .13" and .2". I need to make another hole before the damper to get an accurate reading.

Eric

 

[Gbawol42]

Here are some pics of the coals burning down. I filled this thing about 3/4 full around 8am!

I know you guys have fires going but I am intrigued about your grate and it letting air in. Is there a chance someone could get a picture of what the grate looks like? I'm curious if I could replace my plug with a grate and maybe crack my ashpan when I need the extra air on that last couple hours to get the coals to burn down and burn hotter. I'm almost thinking close the damper and just use that so the air is lower and under the coals.....my minds moving to fast.

 

[trx250r87]

I know you guys have fires going but I am intrigued about your grate and it letting air in. Is there a chance someone could get a picture of what the grate looks like? I'm curious if I could replace my plug with a grate and maybe crack my ashpan when I need the extra air on that last couple hours to get the coals to burn down and burn hotter. I'm almost thinking close the damper and just use that so the air is lower and under the coals.....my minds moving to fast.

Take a look at the HC manual, it should have an exploded diagram and show the grate. It's moved back a little further than the plug on the T1. I'm guessing about 3"-4" wide by 5"-6" deep. Mine is way too hot to check.


Eric

 

[brenndatomu]

I know you guys have fires going but I am intrigued about your grate and it letting air in. Is there a chance someone could get a picture of what the grate looks like? I'm curious if I could replace my plug with a grate and maybe crack my ashpan when I need the extra air on that last couple hours to get the coals to burn down and burn hotter. I'm almost thinking close the damper and just use that so the air is lower and under the coals.....my minds moving to fast.

General rule of thumb...adding uncontrolled air through the grate is a bad idea...usually leads to stove damage sooner or later...it creates a forge like fire...very intense...can crack/melt grates easily...among a long list of other possible damage.
Get to thinking about it...that's part of the reason why the nice "secondary" looking flames in Matt's pics...air from under the fire tends to do that more so than air over fire...think about the dancing blue flames you get with coal...air under fire, burning coal gasses...mesmerizing...

 

[Matt78]

I know you guys have fires going but I am intrigued about your grate and it letting air in. Is there a chance someone could get a picture of what the grate looks like? I'm curious if I could replace my plug with a grate and maybe crack my ashpan when I need the extra air on that last couple hours to get the coals to burn down and burn hotter. I'm almost thinking close the damper and just use that so the air is lower and under the coals.....my minds moving to fast.

Here ya go!

 

[trx250r87]

Here ya go!

Here's a photo from my break-in fire before I hauled it into the basement. The grate almost looks offset a little to the right.

Eric

 

[Gbawol42]

General rule of thumb...adding uncontrolled air through the grate is a bad idea...usually leads to stove damage sooner or later...it creates a forge like fire...very intense...can crack/melt grates easily...among a long list of other possible damage.
Get to thinking about it...that's part of the reason why the nice "secondary" looking flames in Matt's pics...air from under the fire tends to do that more so than air over fire...think about the dancing blue flames you get with coal...air under fire, burning coal gasses...mesmerizing...

Yeah, well it was a quick thought and of course the bad things didn't come to mind, haha.

Always thinking of what I can do to make my stove more efficient.

 

[laynes69]

I'm jealous lol! I'd love to try the new furnace, but with tightening the house it's made a big difference for us. I loaded at 9pm last night and 9am had enough coals to get the furnace going. 30 degrees out and 72 after 12 hours. I'd love to have an automated furnace, but I cannot complain as the house gets tighter. The new furnace sounds very impressive!