Hey Rockstar thanks for the reply, did you buy on Canada side or USA and have it picked, your right the exchange rate doesn't seem to work out in our favor lol. They extended the $150 off for me for an other day but won't do nothing else. I'm still on the fence what to do.
New Furnace Day: Drolet Heat Commander
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Yeah so I did everything you did reach out to mfp reach out to drolet and none of em could seem to give me a straight answer why the price difference cause it is manufactured right here in Canada so we should get it for at least the same price as the USA site. So what I did is searched and actually I found it believe it or not on eBay. After countless messages back and fourth with the seller it’s actually someone that sells for mfp. So I bought from there and they had it drop shipped right to me within a week of ordering and for the price it should be 3400$ and I also got the 150$ rebate because they include the receipt too. Hope this helps this is the cheapest most effective way out there for us Canadians. By the way which part of Canada are you from? I assume Nova Scotia cause of the name haha
Yeah I'm in Nova Scotia, Thanks for the info I'll search for the seller on ebay, If you happen to still no who it was just PM me the name pls if you don't mind. But I'm not going to pay the $4400 it is now, they kinda ripping us off
brenndatomu
Minister of Fire
This says free shipping to USA and Canada...and "or best offer" too...looks like they have accepted 3 offers in the past (of 7 sold) probably won't go a ton less though as I see the price listed is already $100 less then the other 4 they sold.
Drolet Heat Commander Wood Furnace - 310,000 BTU, EPA Certified, Model# DF02003 | eBay
3.6 ft³ firebox. Firebox lined with refractory bricks for better heat distribution. EPA certified, its 310,000 BTU capacity makes this furnace versatile and ideal for heating spaces up to 2,500 ft².
www.ebay.com
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Thanks I never used ebay before don't really know my way around it lol , does it show how much the accecpted offer were for.This says free shipping to USA and Canada...and "or best offer" too...looks like they have accepted 3 offers in the past (of 7 sold) probably won't go a ton less though as I see the price listed is already $100 less then the other 4 they sold.
Drolet Heat Commander Wood Furnace - 310,000 BTU, EPA Certified, Model# DF02003 | eBay
3.6 ft³ firebox. Firebox lined with refractory bricks for better heat distribution. EPA certified, its 310,000 BTU capacity makes this furnace versatile and ideal for heating spaces up to 2,500 ft².www.ebay.com
brenndatomu
Minister of Fire
No...you can make an offer, they will either accept or counter...that can happen 3x before you have to accept the offer or pay the listed price
Awesome, He just accepted my offer from this morning. I'm happy I'm getting one
brenndatomu
Minister of Fire
Great, do you mind sharing the price?
So what does ~$2700 end up being for you in Canadian?
When it says free shipping, does that still apply for you there...like there isn't any extra tariffs, etc?
I don't mind you asking but not sure i should share it on an open fourm , the other side may not wish to have it out there, or may not care I don't know. I can say $2,700 usa today is about $3,455 Cdn. It actually shows $200 usa for shipping , but its included in my deal.
brenndatomu
Minister of Fire
Hey guys Have a question about my duct work I have now , I'd like to try and reuse it if possible. I'm wondering if some of you guys that have these would give me your opinion on what you think.
ok so off my plenum now I have a 28-30 foot run of hot air duct, that hot air duct that connects to the plenum is 12 x 20 right at the plenum, but quickly reduces to 8x20 for the whole length of the duct work, of that 30 foot run of duct work I have 7, 5 inch runs of piping to my vents.
on top of that I have 3 , 5 inch runs of piping directly off of my plenum that runs to vents upstairs as well
Do you think its possible to run that same duct work as is now off a plenum on the heat commander.
thanks scott
ok so off my plenum now I have a 28-30 foot run of hot air duct, that hot air duct that connects to the plenum is 12 x 20 right at the plenum, but quickly reduces to 8x20 for the whole length of the duct work, of that 30 foot run of duct work I have 7, 5 inch runs of piping to my vents.
on top of that I have 3 , 5 inch runs of piping directly off of my plenum that runs to vents upstairs as well
Do you think its possible to run that same duct work as is now off a plenum on the heat commander.
thanks scott
brenndatomu
Minister of Fire
So where it reduces to 8x20, that's a little small right off the bat...(by 10 sq in...170 is minimum) but the bigger issue is then it further reduces when going to the (7) 5" runs...that's a total of 33 sq inches too small...if you added 2 more 5 or 6" runs right to the HC plenum you'd be ok though...
ok so I have 160 sq in for my duct work and yeah I see what your saying with the (7) 5" runs thats only about 137 sq in
but I do have the 3 more 5" run directly off the plenum, and they will run directly off the HC plenum , so that should add another 59 sq in so my total over all should be 196 sq in , Right
i'm starting to think this furnace maybe over kill for my place lol , 1300 sq ft main level plus full basement , this furnace maybe more of a beast then I thought
brenndatomu
Minister of Fire
Correct...I guess I missed the 3 extra 5" runs.
You had a Newmac before right? The HC should have a lot more "range" than the NM did...trying to run the NM "low and slow" pretty much just gets you a bunch of smoke and creosote, no? The HC will cut back the air once the thermostat is satisfied, but still keep the burn clean...keep in mind you will still need to load according to the temperature outside...you don't want to stuff 'er to the gills when its only going down to 40*F overnight (unless your house is very leaky!)
Yes your 100% correct I have a Newmac WB100 that i am replacing its pushing 20 years old, she is a wood eater, pretty much wide open or nothing, on the cold nights you roast your self out for the first half in order to have a long enough fire to keep the house warm for morning lol. its a roller coaster. thats what I really like about the HC it will give an even heat with some longevity.
Its -7c here tonight i think that 19f since 6 pm I put wood in twice its now 12.30 am i'm going down now to put a bunch more in for the night , by morning the house will be cooled off a bit and i'll be lucky if there is enough coals to start it up again. and i have a pretty tight house.
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brenndatomu
Minister of Fire
Oh boy, that doesn't sound like much fun...I think you are gonna be a happy camper...
Oh yeah, it will be a night and day difference for you! You'll be sleeping through the night not having to worry about loading. You'll also be spoiled by pressing a button, loading and walking away. Set the thermostat, go to bed.
brenndatomu
Minister of Fire
ok so here is another question, say the thermostat is set at 70, fire in the furnace and everything is running normal, but I go out for awhile get held up or something and don't get back before the fire goes out. , what does the furnace do/ does it still try to make heat even though there is no fire, will it hurt anything etc. Thanks
SpaceBus
Minister of Fire
I'm pretty sure the distribution blower will turn off if the plenum temperature gets too low.
brenndatomu
Minister of Fire
I'll let one of the HC owners confirm, but my understanding is that the first step of "fire going out" is that it will open the "under fire" air (grate) so the coals will burn down and the potential heat from them can be maximized, if no wood is added and the firebox temp gets too low, all the air is closed and at some point when the plenum temp is down to the minimum preset temp, the blower turns off (although I'm sure just like any wood furnace, the blower will continue to cycle on/off a few times as the furnace grows colder)
So how many of you guys are running a magnehelic gauge and barometric damper ? and your thoughts on them, either way i think I'll run the magnehelic gauge just so I can monitor the chimney. The only thing I'm thinking is with barometric damper when or if your house is in negative pressure could that cause issues?
I don't have your furnace, but I just hooked up a magnehelic 0-0.25" gauge to see if I needed a baro as I'm getting ready to relocate my furnace and make a few other changes, I wanted to see how it ran in the current location. I like it as far as mechanical gauges go, easy to see from across the room. A little spendy and they cheaped out and didn't send any screws to mount it in the holder or any plugs or fittings, so not a fan of the company, but the gauge does seem well made.
brenndatomu
Minister of Fire
A cheap Dwyer Mark II model 25 is plenty good enough for checking draft and static pressures on a wood furnace...they can be bought on ebay and the like, lightly used or NOS for $25-40 (last I checked) just make sure you get one that has the (red) gauge oil with it as that is a little spendy to buy by itself if its missing from the kit...the other stuff (hoses and fittings, etc) not such a big deal.
I leave mine hooked up to the chimney all the time just to verify everything is in the happy place...I had issues with the baro hanging up on my old (creosote monster) Yukon furnace so I just am in the habit of glancing over and verifying that things are right.
Oh, and my personal opinion/experience is that worrying about getting your static pressure up to .2" (IIRC) is not terribly important, as long as its not higher than that (furnace can overheat) and its doing a good job of heating your house with a "less than" .2" reading, no big deal.
I pulled my hair out trying to get .2" on my system years ago, but found the only way to do it was to either restrict my ducts so much that it then didn't feel like the heat was well distributed, or to put the blower on high speed and then the darn thing just kicked on/off all day n night!
I've slowly come to the conclusion that in older houses that likely have large (now considered oversized) ducts (my place had a huge coal furnace originally, forced air, not the "octopus style") its futile chasing the "static pressure tiger"...again, as long as the furnace is heating the place well and the SP is not too high.
On the multiple wood furnaces I've installed I first check the static pressure (make sure its not too high) and then I look more so at the temp rise across the furnace (cold air return temp VS supply plenum temp) and on the modern wood furnaces I have personal experience with, (not a HC) if you can get 40-50* temp rise (average) it'll heat the place...that's right where my last several furnaces have come in 40* up to maybe a spike of 50* during the peak of the fire...
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