New Buckstove 91 insert not drawing well

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The need to insulate the liner is twofold. One is to keep the flue gases hotter. This improves draft and reduces creosote buildup. The second reason is code. Insulation is required unless the chimney has 1" clearance from combustibles all the way up.

Will it work without the insulation? Probably yes. Will is work better and be safer with the insulation, definitely yes.
We are using a catalytic stove so creosote build up should be less, right?

And, pardon my ignorance but wouldn't putting it through a brick chimney with clay liner be placing it where it's free from combustibles on all sides?

I'm not arguing with your expertise..just trying to understand. We are pretty frustrated that the shop hadn't informed us of all of this upfront. We've now spent way more than we intended and sounds like we still aren't done.
 
He said at the hearth shop where we have purchased everything the man told him he wouldn't need to insulate the entire pipe, just the very top to keep cold air from getting in (winter) and hot air from getting in (summer).
I find this all so confusing when everyone is telling us a different story
Without a full inspection of the chimney there is no way for them to know if insulation is required for code. I inspect hundreds of chimneys a year and only a few actually have the required clearances. The vast majority need insulation to meet code
 
We are using a catalytic stove so creosote build up should be less, right?

And, pardon my ignorance but wouldn't putting it through a brick chimney with clay liner be placing it where it's free from combustibles on all sides?

I'm not arguing with your expertise..just trying to understand. We are pretty frustrated that the shop hadn't informed us of all of this upfront. We've now spent way more than we intended and sounds like we still aren't done.
Actually cat stoves have lower exhaust temps making the insulation more important for performance reasons
 
We are using a catalytic stove so creosote build up should be less, right?
Sort of, as long as the wood is fully seasoned. Catalytic stoves can run a cooler exhaust temperature than conventional tube stoves when running at low output.

And, pardon my ignorance but wouldn't putting it through a brick chimney with clay liner be placing it where it's free from combustibles on all sides?
That's a reasonable question. If the hot, uninsulated liner is in contact with the clay tile, heat will conduct right through them. A wood stove's exhaust can be hotter than a fireplace, which is what the chimney was originally designed for. Most importantly, an insulated liner offers much greater protection against chimney fires.
 
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He said at the hearth shop where we have purchased everything the man told him he wouldn't need to insulate the entire pipe, just the very top to keep cold air from getting in (winter) and hot air from getting in (summer).
I find this all so confusing when everyone is telling us a different story
Also is this the same place that told you it could just be slid into the fireplace with no connection?
 
Also is this the same place that told you it could just be slid into the fireplace with no connection?
Yes 🤦‍♀️ we'll, they did 'recommend' the ss liner but never said anything about it being required or even really needed. Just that it would be best to have it. We really thought they were just trying to sell us more things.
I've since talked to another gentleman at the store that said he can't believe they didn't tell us we would need the ss liner bc he said he always puts them in. But it would have been nice to know all that before we spent the $3500+ tax on the stove alone. I really hope we see tremendous savings on our heat bill once we are done!
 
Do we need the 1/4 or 1/2 inch thick insulation?

Also do we need to insulate behind the stove or is just the ss pipe liner enough?
1/2" and just the liner
 
Alright..we are having to break because of rain but we were able to remove the damper and a few bricks, got the pipe down the chimney and because of the angle it comes down and shape of the stove this is the absolute best we've been able to do at getting the pipe into the top of the stove. We just hardly have any room to work. The back side and sides are in good..just the front has a lip. Husband picked up some stove cement and we plan to seal those gaps with it. Should be pretty air tight after that. Does anyone see an issue with this idea?

[Hearth.com] New Buckstove 91 insert not drawing well
 
Alright..we are having to break because of rain but we were able to remove the damper and a few bricks, got the pipe down the chimney and because of the angle it comes down and shape of the stove this is the absolute best we've been able to do at getting the pipe into the top of the stove. We just hardly have any room to work. The back side and sides are in good..just the front has a lip. Husband picked up some stove cement and we plan to seal those gaps with it. Should be pretty air tight after that. Does anyone see an issue with this idea?

View attachment 303894
Yeah you need an elbow. Probably a 15 degree elbow
 
Something like this

 
Yeah you need an elbow. Probably a 15 degree elbow
In addition to the 15* elbow, I added their cast iron stove connector.
I don't think it was $117, ten yrs. ago or whenever that was. 😖
(broken link removed to https://buckstove.com/store/ols/products/chimney-connector-8)

[Hearth.com] New Buckstove 91 insert not drawing well
 
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