Need help with Encore 2040-C

[Mebenal]

Hello,

In November, we purchased a house with a 2015ish Vermont Castings 2040 cat-c . I've never ran a wood stove before, so I had/have a lot of learning to do.
I need some advice from the many of you who have been running this stove.

The setup-
Double wall 6in pipe, 18.5feet from top of stove to cap at the top. Straight up.

The wood-
Some quite dry lodgepole pine. (9-11% moisture, measured on fresh split after sitting indoors for 24hours, measured in 3 spots going with the grain.
Also have some fir with much higher moisture, around 22%
(both types of wood, unsure of the seasoned time, as we've just moved into the house)

The stove did not come with a cat probe (or it was removed at some point). I have just today installed a k-type probe with the Auber AT100 digital meter into the rear of the stove to read CAT temps.
I have an internal flue temp probe (condor) not the cheapest, not the most expensive.
And a magnetic stove top thermometer (placed behind the grill top)

I leave the ashpan full.

I try to always have a good bed of coals.

I have done the dollar bill test where I can reach, and have done an incense test at all other joints I can see.

The primary air flap shuts completely, and holding incense near it, the incense does not go into the stove at all. (seems sealed well)

Up until today, I have had only nightmares running this stove, and a max burn time of maybe 4.5 hours if im lucky.

The CAT temp probe and Auber meter have finally arrived today after a month, so I am hoping I can operate this stove properly with knowing all my temps.
(and with all the knowledge on this forum, and having read countless pages)

Please school me on the following-

cold start up
1. get the stove up to 450 stove top temp with air 100% open and bypass open
2. close bypass, watch cat temp get to 800
3. dial back primary air to 50%
4. watch for cat temps to stay 1000-1200
5. adjust primary air as needed to keep cat temps 1000-1200
6. hope for longer burn time?

Thank you all in advance, I have learned a lot already from reading through the various posts.

 

[Eman85]

cold start up
1. get the stove up to 450 stove top temp with air 100% open and bypass open
2. close bypass, watch cat temp get to 800
3. dial back primary air to 50%
4. watch for cat temps to stay 1000-1200
5. adjust primary air as needed to keep cat temps 1000-1200
6. hope for longer burn time?

How did that work out?

 

[Mebenal]

How did that work out?

I haven't tried yet, I was hoping someone would critique the steps before my maiden voyage with the AT100. haha. Unless they seem "correct"?

 

[Turbo89]

I have the same stove (same year even), I was fighting these issues a few weeks ago. I documented my trouble shooting steps here (I’ll try to find / post a link).

Basically, I passed the paper / dollar bill test but used a lighter and found door gasket and griddle gasket leaks. I replaced both (Amazon, less than $30 and like 15 min work), then added 2 bolts to slow air to the cat chamber. Went from 4 hr burn on a good day to 10+ hr burns, and I haven’t really figured out how to over night this stove. I’m suspicious I need a ash door gasket too… but haven’t gotten there yet, as it runs good with a full ash pan.

Edit, here’s that thread:https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/encore-2040-cat-c-burns-too-fast.205794/

 

[Mebenal]

I have the same stove (same year even), I was fighting these issues a few weeks ago. I documented my trouble shooting steps here (I’ll try to find / post a link).

Basically, I passed the paper / dollar bill test but used a lighter and found door gasket and griddle gasket leaks. I replaced both (Amazon, less than $30 and like 15 min work), then added 2 bolts to close the slow air to the cat chamber. Went from 4 hr burn on a good day to 10+ hr burns, and I haven’t really figured out how to over night this stove. I’m suspicious I need a ash door gasket too… but haven’t gotten there yet, as it runs good with a full ash pan.

Edit, here’s that thread:https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/encore-2040-cat-c-burns-too-fast.205794/

thank you very much, i will go through and make any adjustments needed.

 

[Eman85]

I haven't tried yet, I was hoping someone would critique the steps before my maiden voyage with the AT100. haha. Unless they seem "correct"?

Experience is the best teacher, your plan looks good now give it a go.

 

[Mebenal]

plugged 2 of 8 air holes on back wall

Test 1-
1. Air 100%, bypass open
2. stove top reached 450
3. closed bypass, left air 100%
4. cat reached 940 very slowly (maybe 35 min)
5. I left air 100% (max cat temp about 940-950)
6. cat dropped slowly to 850, and continued to slowly drop (air still 100%)
7. 2 hours later, tried a reload with a bit more wood (about 1/2 the box) (better coal base compared to cold start)
8. bypass open, air 100%, let the wood catch fire
9. internal flue temp reached 650 (about 10 min) stove top about 500
10. closed bypass, air still 100%
11. cat reached 1000 (little bit faster this time, maybe 25 min)
12. closed air to 50%
13. cat dropped to 850ish
14. 4 hours later i was left with ashes almost cold enough to touch with my hands


Seems like the same thing as before, just now I can see the temps instead of guessing what they are. Any suggestions for test #2?

I was thinking to try and let the CAT get a bit hotter before shutting down the air. Closer to 1200.

Ive had the stove "seem" to go nuclear a few times on me over the months. One time internal flue temps reached 1200 while all air was 0%.... after this I made a steel block-off plate with magnets for the secondary air inlet. (i haven't needed to use it yet)
This episode happened when a log seemed to fall right in the back, and force the air/flames straight into the cat chamber.
I made a re-bar stand to prevent this from happening again. (not sure if its needed)

 

[Turbo89]

Have you tried the lighter test near the door/ash tray gaskets? Those temps indicate pretty good (not drenched) wood, so it seems like an air leak.


Is that first picture a block do the secondary air intake? If you’re facing fast burns with that in place, there’s a massive air leak somewhere.

Some things to check:
- Verify primary air is closing down (I posted pics in that other thread).
- check the door gaskets / ash tray pan gasket / griddle gasket with lighter (my big leak was at the door seam).
- some folks have talked about blocking 1 or 2 of the EPA holes (front bottom of the stove near the legs).

Another thing folks mentioned (I didn’t see this) is that the ash tray door sags. Folks have also mention running it with a full ash pan as offering better air control.

 

[Mebenal]

Have you tried the lighter test near the door/ash tray gaskets? Those temps indicate pretty good (not drenched) wood, so it seems like an air leak.


Is that first picture a block do the secondary air intake? If you’re facing fast burns with that in place, there’s a massive air leak somewhere.

Some things to check:
- Verify primary air is closing down (I posted pics in that other thread).
- check the door gaskets / ash tray pan gasket / griddle gasket with lighter (my big leak was at the door seam).
- some folks have talked about blocking 1 or 2 of the EPA holes (front bottom of the stove near the legs).

Another thing folks mentioned (I didn’t see this) is that the ash tray door sags. Folks have also mention running it with a full ash pan as offering better air control.

Thanks for the quick reply.

The block-off plate is for the secondary air inlet, yes. But i've never used it. I just made it after the incident where my flue temps were 1200F with all air shut. (i would use this plate as a backup measure if i needed to shut the stove down more without any options)

Yep, i've done an incense test at all joints I can access. (however, not a lighter test)
Primary inlet, fully shut (even pulling on the wire) no incense goes into the inlet (same results without pulling on the little wire)
Front doors, i had small leak in gasket, fixed, and incense no longer goes into this gap
top griddle, no incense being sucked into stove
bottom ash pan, no incense being sucked in

Its possible I am not checking for leaks correctly. The process I use-
1. stove hot and up to temp
2. light an incense stick
3. hold the incense stick very close to each gap in stove and watch for incense being sucked into the gap

 

[Turbo89]

Thanks for the quick reply.

The block-off plate is for the secondary air inlet, yes. But i've never used it. I just made it after the incident where my flue temps were 1200F with all air shut. (i would use this plate as a backup measure if i needed to shut the stove down more without any options)

Yep, i've done an incense test at all joints I can access. (however, not a lighter test)
Primary inlet, fully shut (even pulling on the wire) no incense goes into the inlet (same results without pulling on the little wire)
Front doors, i had small leak in gasket, fixed, and incense no longer goes into this gap
top griddle, no incense being sucked into stove
bottom ash pan, no incense being sucked in

Its possible I am not checking for leaks correctly. The process I use-
1. stove hot and up to temp
2. light an incense stick
3. hold the incense stick very close to each gap in stove and watch for incense being sucked into the gap

This is exactly what I was doing with the lighter (after I passed the paper test). It was very obvious, as the flame bent inwards noticeably. I was holding the flame very close to the door, I’d imagine you’d experience a very similar thing with a smoke source.

It’s probably worth re-checking for leaks, and I’d even think about running some tests with the secondary / EPA holes blocked. You should able to literally extinguish flames by turning the primary air down (my stove takes about 2-3 min to achieve this now).