Nc-30 is terrible right now

[mellow]

Rule # 1, never trust a tree trimming service, 90% of them will lie to your face, maybe not on purpose as most believe wood sitting in log form cut down counts as seasoning time, they also like to do huge piles of wood that does not aid in the seasoning time either.

For future reference buy a moisture meter and test from a fresh split piece before accepting a load from them.

 

[weatherguy]

Sounds like you're getting the hang of it, I was lucky that I never operated an older stove so I didn't have to unlearn anything.

 

[tjcole50]

Only stoves I operated prior to this was a barrel stove and basically a plain firebox insert with a blower. Different ball game here but will pay off i am posotive of that now

 

[MishMouse]

I had some problems convincing my wife of the proper way to burn when we got our TL-300. She was used to a barrel stove and how her father did things. Cut, the wood stack it in a big pile and use as needed. We actually got into a couple of arguments when I kept on trying to convince her that we need to stack and cover it so that it dries properly. I think after over 6+ years with this stove she is finally starting to realize that I am right, but I may be just dreaming.

 

[tjcole50]

Rule # 1, never trust a tree trimming service, 90% of them will lie to your face, maybe not on purpose as most believe wood sitting in log form cut down counts as seasoning time, they also like to do huge piles of wood that does not aid in the seasoning time either.

For future reference buy a moisture meter and test from a fresh split piece before accepting a load from them.

Yep mm is on order once I start dropping my 20 hickorys soon. I agree with you on tree trimming companies. But this one I know. I work with his son and his dad and brother are who own the business . They all burn wood and do not sell green wood. They actually take their cutting and splitting pretty serious. Good family but any random tree service I wouldn't trust as far as selling "seasoned" wood

 

[blades]

If your get wood from them still in round it ain't dry enough. If you stack of 4" or so splits in there 15% mm or less you be scrambling for how to cool it off. Best heat producing is when load on a active coal bed about 1-2" deep. You could put 3, 4" splits of good hard wood in there at 1/2 throttle and you would not want to real close to the front. Your install is trapping a lot of radiant heat in the brick mass that will take quite awhile to heat up. As to the blower you could add a couple steel plates from the top edge of the rear heat shield out towards the front to help direct the air flow more . As you said, turbulence is causing some difficulties in that area.

 

[tjcole50]

If your get wood from them still in round it ain't dry enough. If you stack of 4" or so splits in there 15% mm or less you be scrambling for how to cool it off. Best heat producing is when load on a active coal bed about 1-2" deep. You could put 3, 4" splits of good hard wood in there at 1/2 throttle and you would not want to real close to the front. Your install is trapping a lot of radiant heat in the brick mass that will take quite awhile to heat up. As to the blower you could add a couple steel plates from the top edge of the rear heat shield out towards the front to help direct the air flow more . As you said, turbulence is causing some difficulties in that area.

Agreed. Were scrapping the metal box and extending the heatshield. The stove will be moved out 4 more inches onto hearth and I'm also going to attach a blower upside down on backside of block plate and blow across the top of the stove to get the heat out of there. I think this new setup will be about perfect

 

[mellow]

Make sure the blower you use is rated for a high heat area, not just some box store fan.

 

[Hoozie]

I was going to post in one of your blower threads, but may as well put it here.

My -16 blower on either speed, doesn't blow any air back out the bottom of the stove. It all manages to go over the top. I actually ended up getting a Dimmer switch so I could run it below the slow speed. In my case it seems to cool the stove too much. BUT, I also have terrible draft, which is probably the source of half of my problems.

 

[johnstra]

View attachment 124029
Dogs are even looking at me like what the hell is wrong? Lol

LOL!! I hope you get it figured out soon. The 30 is an awesome heater and I hate to see those dogs suffer like that.

 

[tjcole50]

I was going to post in one of your blower threads, but may as well put it here.

My -16 blower on either speed, doesn't blow any air back out the bottom of the stove. It all manages to go over the top. I actually ended up getting a Dimmer switch so I could run it below the slow speed. In my case it seems to cool the stove too much. BUT, I also have terrible draft, which is probably the source of half of my problems.

Is your heat shield open on the bottom of the nc-30? I figured any stove blower should be able to work for the heated environment. What do you think of that idea ? Figure I was going to take the ac-30 blower put it up top and put the ac-16 on the back of the stove itself

 

[Hoozie]

Is your heat shield open on the bottom of the nc-30? I figured any stove blower should be able to work for the heated environment. What do you think of that idea ? Figure I was going to take the ac-30 blower put it up top and put the ac-16 on the back of the stove itself

Yea, it has the ~1" gap along the bottom edge. Honestly, I would wait until you install one fan as designed to see how it works before finding a way to put more fans back there :twocents:

 

[tjcole50]

Ac-30 currently back there but our two future tweaks will help it greatly well get her throwin serious heat here soon

 

[Big Uno]

Listen to Bother Bart, fix what's wrong . Your burning / wood before throwing time and money at something that's not wrong.

 

[tjcole50]

I agree 110% with bb I need to learn this hog. But I already have both blowers and 30 degree elbow and the sheet metal for a full flush block off plate. Only thing it will take from me is time . All of those things will do nothing but put more heat into my house

 

[BobUrban]

Here is what I did to mod my fan so I could get more rear clearance on my hearth - I don't think with your configuration after pulling the stove out 4" it will be necessary but it is an option for tight quarters. My fan blows up the back and over the top with a shield/shroud that should push a ton of hot air into your living space. I never even use it - just not needed with all the heat this thing throws.

 

[tjcole50]

Something has to be up. Several people commented on getting a great amount of air from their blowers while mine is pathetic. It really doesn't feel like the blowers output is hitting my lintel. But maybe some is and it's creating a turbulence and not allowing the air to be pushed out. Is your nc30 tucked into a fireplace? Also how far away can you feel a good force of air from the ac-16?

 

[mol1jb]

With the ac16 fan I don't feel much air flow. However with the fan running it makes the room heat up a lot faster. I think in main part its taking the cold air from the floor level and throw it over the top of the stuff to go to get warmed.

 

[Big Uno]

I still think your barking up the wrong tree . My stove is almost flush in a double sided fireplace, with a block off plate that is every bit of 24" above the top of the stove , the fan is week as hell ... Can't really feel any air on your bare arm from two feet away. It is 76' in my house this second ( only because I had the front door open for about 20 min.) after a 2:00p load of half rotted , punky as hell , but very dry maple .
I think those fans are week for a reason . Cool down that stove top , and you cool the air for secondary combustion , making even less heat. Concentrate on making heat , then figure out if you need to move more.
Every one of us who have switched from smoke dragons to EPA stoves thought our wood was seasoned , we were wrong. If you go back and look at the replies to this thread , the majority of them say something about your wood not being seasoned enough. That's where you should start!
I'm sorry if this sounds harsh it is not the intent , I just know how good of a heater the 30 is , and want to help.
I'd use the search feature on this forum and look for " how to load for overnight burn" I think it's called by " backwoods savage" he has very good advice on how to step down the stove . Then go to the store and get four or five bags of that expensive kiln dried wood , load it burn it, and reload it. If you don't see a huge improvement , then start fabricating.
Good luck
Uno

 

[Big Uno]

I'm sorry "Hogwildz" Is the author of that thread I believe .

 

[tjcole50]

I'm sorry "Hogwildz" Is the author of that thread I believe .

Will take a look thanks. Didn't take it harsh I know 3/4 of the wood I have out back is not ready and I have a lot to learn with this stove. Third day burning I have the house to 74 which is very good! But I need well seasoned wood next winter for sure I wanna see the secondaries all light like crazy not this one tube every once in awhile thing and I know that's from wood! Only thing we are going to do for now that is , is just scoot her out into the room a bit more and do a better block plate my current one is pretty pathetic

 

[drumbum]

I can't figure out what going on here, something is hinky! There is NO WAY that that old burnt out relic is gonna out heat your new stove! Something is not right. Have you checked your stove top temps? Should be...dunno...600* range? Get a magnetic stove thermometer to stick on there if you don't have one. Are you getting a good secondary burn? Are you letting the stove stove get up to temp before cutting the air back to minimum, in several slow increments? Is the baffle in properly in place?
Edit: the fire in your picture looks like a really aggressive burn, are you cutting the primary are control back at all? These EPA burners make the best heat when up to temp, then air control shut down (screaming hot secondary burn)

Hinky? I thought that was west coast terminology .....via Adam 12.

 

[Hoozie]

I turned my -16 on high to test earlier tonight. While there isn't a forceful jet/column of air coming from the blower, you can definitely tell that there is more air coming off the stove, and suddenly you can't stand as close

I just went through some wood that got soaked three winters ago, and has been in the center of the woodshed since (darn leaking roof). I could tell immediately that it wasn't seasoned as well as the rest of the stuff I've been burning. Get it hot, and see how it goes

 

[brenndatomu]

Adding in some ECO bricks or pallet wood (any REALLY DRY wood) to a load of your marginal wood will help quite a bit too...

Hinky...? Hmmm....where'd I pick that up...I'm thinking it was NCIS

 

[blades]

NC-30 wood at 20% marginal performance, 18% marked improvement, 12-15% whoa baby call the fire department. I know preaching to choir.
6 to 8" splits are going to take all of 2+ years to get there. 4x4 still takes about as long, 2x2 or so dramatically shortens time factor but at the expense of being consumed more quickly. A loosely filled firebox ( nc -30) of dry 2x2 splits and you are going to be looking for an escape hatch. I don't know about the rest of you but when that magnetic Rutford gauge says around 700 degs I get real agitated ( believe it or not but the dang thing reads the same as the infared gun, guess they messed up when this one was made) But that's just me ( different stove, over fire, many years back, rather lasting impression) , even though I know it is not a problem for the 30. When you hit that temp range the term "feel the heat" is whoa-fully short descriptive wise.