So I’m a couple days past the 2 week mark. We finally started getting some warm weather and sun the last few days so I didn’t want to open them. I will dig into the kiln tonight to pull some samples.
I'm going to build one this July 4th weekend I have two cords of oak I'd like to use this year, keep us updated, I'll try to do the same, sun would be nice, seems like it's been raining more than sun.
Update:
16 days in the kiln thus far. Here’s a belated two week update.
Average high since 6/12 : 80 degrees f
Average low since 6/12: 60 degrees f
Days of direct sunlight since 6/12: 5
Days of partly cloudy since 6/12: 3
Days of cloudy/rain/no sun: 8
Moisture reading done on a fresh split face. Results so far have been interesting. I pulled three splits from the uncovered stack and they seemed to trend lower in moisture when compared to the kiln stack. The splits from the kiln stack were noticeably lighter in color and felt drier (internally) than those in the uncovered stack. If I had to make a visual comparison, I’d guess the kiln wood was drier but the meter read otherwise.
I’m not sure if temperature is playing a roll here as the kiln wood was noticeably hotter.
First pic is the uncovered wood, second pic is the kiln wood. Currently I’m going to say the results thus far are inconclusive. Only two weeks into the project with less than ideal sunlight. I may modify the ventilation, or not. I’ll give it two more weeks before tampering with the experiment.
On a sunny 80 degree day what is the temperature in the kiln.
Your results may be less than optimal due to it not being hot enough on the good days. Your kiln should out perform the top covered stacks. There may be somthing wrong
I’ll stick my arm in there when I get home and see if I’m losing too much heat for having bigger vents. .
I wonder if you should take a few readings at various "depths" in the wood? It might not dry evenly, kind of like how a roast doesn't cook evenly throughout its thickness. Even after a few weeks of good drying conditions the middle might only fall a few % while the outer part has gone down more.
Or you can put an air prob in it and know exactly how low the temperature is and make the proper adjustments to the vents. Take the guess work out of it. Your arm cant tell you the actual temperature in the kiln. Air probes are relatively cheep and easy to fined.. you went through all the trouble to build the kiln. Why not take the one step you need and make sure you achieve the results your looking for.. i really dont get your thought process....
The one im useing is for cooking. Its an air probe that i use for my smoker .. i can also use it for the grill and in the oven.. so it has a purpose..They make many maximum/minimum thermometers.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006OP2O3Q/?tag=hearthamazon-20
Wonder if it's possible you're wrapped too close to the wood & bottom? So moisture laden air can't get out & drier stuff can't get in? (Not enough air movement through?) I haven't tried this myself but kind of thinking there shouldn't be a lot of condensation showing when it is up to temp? Then also if that condensation can't run down the plastic and get away from the stack it will likely just keep coming back.
I think I would likely do heavy black plastic on the ground vs. fabric.
Interesting stuff!
I'm going to try this with Rubber Roofing material.
I don't think high humidity of the intake air is really a concern in solar kilns. If the temp is 85 degrees and 80 percent humidity, when its heated to 130 degrees it will only be at about 25% humidity. Hot air can hold a lot of moisture.
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