My Englander stove doesn't work right - ever.

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I agree. It isnt the cleaning...If I kick the stove up to lets say 8, It will take about an hour or so, but eventually the window will go black, smoke will be pouring out the vent outside and the burnpot will back all the way up and the stove will eventually shut off. But there will still be fire burning in the ash pan (spilled over) and set off the c02 detectors in the house. This is bad and CANNOT be the normal operation of the stove.

I tend to totally shut down every 3 days and clean the hell out of the thing. Annoying, yes, but it is what I have had to do so far. Every day or so, I stop the stove long enough to clean out the backed up burn pot then kick it back on.

Are the ash pans on these stove not negative pressure?
 
The three numbers are "low fuel feed", "low air feed" and "blower", respectively. They are the trim values for low burn rates 1 through 3
Thank you, Sir! All quite confusing after running my Quads! :)
Those trims are just for low burn rates. I would think on a 10 degree day, I'd have that thing on a high burn rate! So right now, the OP says he's running at 8 feed rate with the room blower at max of 9. Those trim values then mean nothing. Right? Because he's not on a low burn rate.
 
No pot stirrer on a PAH.

To the OP,

Send a private message to stoveguy2esw he is the head of England Stove Works tech group and just so happens he is running a PAH in his house.

PAH's need a good clean exhaust system all the way from just above the burn pot to the end of the termination cap. They like all top feeders need good gaskets on the stove since the air flow going through the system actually removes the ash from the burn pot.

Your use of 9 as a low burn air setting tells me that your combustion blower isn't quite up to the task, this could be something as simple as where the impeller is on the shaft of the blower motor coupled with less than good gaskets or a burn pot that isn't
sitting in its receptacle properly (warped maybe).

Thanks for the tips, burnpot is new for this year (old one cracked on the bottom). Would the blower always have been bad?
 
Thanks for the tips, burnpot is new for this year (old one cracked on the bottom). Would the blower always have been bad?

I just recently posted about this on my Englander. Different model, but I'm wondering if my blower has been bad all along too. Hope you find the cause!
 
Thanks for the tips, burnpot is new for this year (old one cracked on the bottom). Would the blower always have been bad?

Well it might have been it might not have always been bad. But in any event you should not need to have the LBA at 9. It is also possible that your stove's controller is bad or the mode it is running in is wrong. In any event talk to Mike.

I only know that burn pot air bypasses are no good and that top feed stoves depend upon good air flow to burn correctly and eject the ash, tons of things interfere with air flow the number one thing is lack of proper cleaning.

Besides Mike can handle your situation.

I do not even try to keep track of the controller mode settings, there are too many, and there are differences between this year's versions and several years ago. Even the heat ranges interactions with the settings change.

The long and short of it is that burn pot build up is indeed an airflow issue. It is even possible that the pellets you are burning can not be adjusted for. For example high dense ash pellets such as industrial or standard grade may require 8 hour cleanings of the stove to burn correctly.

Some high density premium pellets may also cause issues and require adjustments to cleaning schedules.

In both of the above cases the problem is air flow, in the first there isn't enough toe keep the burn pot clear of ash and in the other to fully burn the pellets.
 
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Thanks for the tips, burnpot is new for this year (old one cracked on the bottom). Would the blower always have been bad?
The blower COULD have always been bad or maybe it's never been getting full voltage.?! Stranger things have happened. I had my auger jammed by an aluminum warning label that was never evidently stuck properly. When you had the combustion blower out, did it spin freely? Was there build up on the blades or behind it? Is it 110 volt motor? If so, did you try running it straight from a socket CAREFULLY? :) Have you measured voltage to the motor when it's running to see if it's getting full voltage on max speed?
 
Here is a video of the burn today

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The blower COULD have always been bad or maybe it's never been getting full voltage.?! Stranger things have happened. I had my auger jammed by an aluminum warning label that was never evidently stuck properly. When you had the combustion blower out, did it spin freely? Was there build up on the blades or behind it? Is it 110 volt motor? If so, did you try running it straight from a socket CAREFULLY? :) Have you measured voltage to the motor when it's running to see if it's getting full voltage on max speed?

The combustion blower was never bad. It was something else in the stove that I replaced ( a sensor or something)
 
How do you know the combustion blower was never bad? What voltage is it seeing on heat setting 9?
 
I dont, but dont these get tested out of the factory?
You mean the factory in CHINA????? ;lol

The stoves are made in the USA but components???? Cheapest bidder, me thinks. I was replacing all the steering linkage on the Chevy K1500 so I figured I'd go with a good Germany brand like Bosch. Got everything. MADE IN CHINA!!! Darn things are worn out already!

"Fasco started with one manufacturing plant in Rochester, N.Y. in 1911. Today, we employ over 5,000 individuals in 13 facilities across North America and Asia Pacific and are continually increasing our capabilities on a global scale."
 
I'm curious, do you hear the combustion motor ramp up or down when you adjust the setting? I don't hear anything with mine and I see no difference no matter what number it is on.
 
I'm curious, do you hear the combustion motor ramp up or down when you adjust the setting? I don't hear anything with mine and I see no difference no matter what number it is on.

It's very minimal...you'd have to put a multi meter on it to see it....
 
could the blower always have been bad

You-bet-cha. check the voltage. I have seen a lot of stuff not working right out of the box... I think there was another thread earlier this season... same kinda problems ...blower seemed OK ...but it wasn't... and a new exhaust blower fixed it.
 
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...at this point in time - I'd be inclined to experiment, with different burn modes, maybe one will work better for "your" stove, than "3"
 
I suffered just as the OP did. My problems ended up being a burn pot that would not sit tight in the cradle, and the ash pan would not seal. Once I tightened up on the ash pan and replaced my old worn gaskets it burned and continues to burn perfectly. My other issue was a very large gap between the stove body and the hopper lid. Once I added some fiberglass rope to the low end, which was the same side as the control panel, it worked beautifully.
 
I suffered just as the OP did. My problems ended up being a burn pot that would not sit tight in the cradle, and the ash pan would not seal. Once I tightened up on the ash pan and replaced my old worn gaskets it burned and continues to burn perfectly. My other issue was a very large gap between the stove body and the hopper lid. Once I added some fiberglass rope to the low end, which was the same side as the control panel, it worked beautifully.
how did you tighten the ash pan?
 
I doubled the gasket on the bottom of the ash pan. Just on the front though. The angled parts didnt require it. I also bent the edges of the ashpan in ever so slightly using a wide jaw vise grip.I also checked my work afterward using the dollar bill method and then ran the stove and traced the gasket area with a grill lighter.
 
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I doubled the gasket on the bottom of the ash pan. Just on the front though. The angled parts didnt require it. I also bent the edges of the ashpan in ever so slightly using a wide jaw vise grip.I also checked my work afterward using the dollar bill method and then ran the stove and traced the gasket area with a grill lighter.
Great idea!!!!
 
sorry it took so long to catch this one , to the OP , how long had that stove been burning at the time the video was taken?

im not seeing any ash on the cradle surrounding the burn pot, is this typical? usually the ash will build around the pot like a mini volcano. if the cradle is staying clean around where the burn pot sits in it then you are blowing out combustion air around the pot instead of through it.
 
sorry it took so long to catch this one , to the OP , how long had that stove been burning at the time the video was taken?

im not seeing any ash on the cradle surrounding the burn pot, is this typical? usually the ash will build around the pot like a mini volcano. if the cradle is staying clean around where the burn pot sits in it then you are blowing out combustion air around the pot instead of through it.
Me thinks we have found the problem, Houston! :)
 
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