My dealer said...
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Really, why Is that?? This all part of being a "servicing dealer" . You have to take the good with the bad... You make a purchase and expect it to perform as stated... this and other issues have been going on too long.. are they all related, maybe... Winter will be over soon.... .& then what..
I guess I would suggest contacting Healtilator, seeing what they say. maybe they can have another dealer come out with a fresh perspective and ideas? Its happened before....the original guy is obviously missing something. Often, the manufacturer will spring for the visit, as long as its still under warrantee. Just an idea.
I did contact them and they said it sounds like it is the control board along with the gasket seal. Our dealer is supposed to come Friday and switch it out. I don't blame our dealer because this seems like a rare case of the stove going bad.
But really the dealer should have been swapping out parts on his second trip to your house. Yes one of those parts should have been the control board and thermostat.
Eric
Eric
The stove started to work as soon as he plugged it in. So we both ASSumed it was working fine. He just switched out a disk because he noticed something wrong with it. He did mention these were new stoves to them.
Sidenote: Thank you, Eric, for all the help you given me!
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MommyOf4, I was directing it to the poster not you...You have been very patient with this, you have suffered enough with this aggravating thing... I hope that this up coming service will solve your issues once and for all...if not then a new stove ..
MommyOf4, I was directing it to the poster not you...You have been very patient with this, you have suffered enough with this aggravating thing... I hope that this up coming service will solve your issues once and for all...if not then a new stove ..
I put this in another thread, but meant to put it here..
OK...I think I've officially hit my limit.
My dealer just said he spoke with Heatilator about our issue of our stove shutting down. Heatilator told him that the control setting may need to be adjusted to a higher setting because the fire in the pot is not getting high enough to satisfy the thermocoupler. The feed adjustment rod also needs to be completely open. I told him that it IS in fact the proper height. The problem we are having now is the stove shutting off randomly and not being able to hit the reset button to reset it and also the black sooting. The crazy feeding issue has been resolved.
I know it has to be the door gasket or the vacuum switch. Is what the dealer saying making sense? I told him that when he comes I want him to check the vacuum switch.
SN: The control board AND the thermostat has been switched. He will be coming out again today. What should I have him check and is there a specific way?
OK...I think I've officially hit my limit.
My dealer just said he spoke with Heatilator about our issue of our stove shutting down. Heatilator told him that the control setting may need to be adjusted to a higher setting because the fire in the pot is not getting high enough to satisfy the thermocoupler. The feed adjustment rod also needs to be completely open. I told him that it IS in fact the proper height. The problem we are having now is the stove shutting off randomly and not being able to hit the reset button to reset it and also the black sooting. The crazy feeding issue has been resolved.
I know it has to be the door gasket or the vacuum switch. Is what the dealer saying making sense? I told him that when he comes I want him to check the vacuum switch.
SN: The control board AND the thermostat has been switched. He will be coming out again today. What should I have him check and is there a specific way?
Sorry no one answered you. How did it go today? The sooting problem sure sounds like not enough air through the burn pot, which translates to a rich condition, which translates to a lazy fire, which translates to not enough heat to keep the thermocouple satisfied. I don't know the construction of the Heatilator so can't say for sure what the problem is but any self-respecting service guy should be able to figure that out. Clogged air holes in burn pot, sick combustion fan, blocked exit path including the cap, excess buildup around the combustion fan, dump valve on burn pot partially open, door not closed completely, some other part of the stove not installed properly and letting air bypass the burn pot.
When I woke up the stove was completely cold. I got it started right now, but I had to keep the side panel (the part where it houses the motors, etc) just hanging by the bolts so that it doesn't short out the wire to the hopper. I'm still seeing some black ash/soot on the baffles, but not on the window yet. It's been a couple hours since I started it. I'm not sure what to do with the black ash though. I've cleaned out the venting.
He thinks we need an OAK. I took off all of the extra insulation that we put up for the winter and it's been burning ok without any shut downs. The only problem we have now is that it still will not restart when the call light comes on and also the black ash. The black ash I believe is from the burnpot filling with ash and thus not being able to get the air into the stove.
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