Most Reliable Harman Pellet Stove

[Washed-Up]

Don, I’d love to see how you did the RS…thinking about doing a friend of mines I installed last year

 

[Tonyray]

The ESP probe wire color does not have anything to do with an ignitor. The old Harman circuit boards had to have a black ESP wire probe.
The new Harman Circuit boards have a bank of dip switches and switch 5 in the up position works with the red ESP probe and in the down position works with the black wire ESP probe.
Therefore when the circuit board goes bad this one board will replace both model versions. I put a new board on mine and then put in a new red wire ESP probe.

yes.. forgot it was about the ESP and not ignitor..

 

[danrclem]

One other thing, the P-series have minimum input ratings. The P-43 is 23,900, the P-61 is 21,400 and the P-68 is 20,200. It seems like it would be just the opposite. Anybody have an explanation as to why it works this way or is Harman just pulling numbers out of the air?

 

[bogieb]

One other thing, the P-series have minimum input ratings. The P-43 is 23,900, the P-61 is 21,400 and the P-68 is 20,200. It seems like it would be just the opposite. Anybody have an explanation as to why it works this way or is Harman just pulling numbers out of the air?

Those ratings have really changed with the "C" models - table below is from a 2014-2015 manual. I found a 2014-2019 manual online, and the table is the same. Then I looked up the newer stoves just to see if there was a typo in your post - but nope, you are right. Must have something to do with the board changes that were made. They may have made tweaks for EPA stuff (IDK, just throwing things out there).

My P61a has always seemed to be a bit more efficient than my P43 in pellet usage - even when manually controlling the feed rate. The burn pot of the P43 has a different profile than the larger stoves, with a steeper incline that may affect something.

 

[Don2222]

Those ratings have really changed with the "C" models - table below is from a 2014-2015 manual. I found a 2014-2019 manual online, and the table is the same. Then I looked up the newer stoves just to see if there was a typo in your post - but nope, you are right. Must have something to do with the board changes that were made. They may have made tweaks for EPA stuff (IDK, just throwing things out there).

My P61a has always seemed to be a bit more efficient than my P43 in pellet usage - even when manually controlling the feed rate. The burn pot of the P43 has a different profile than the larger stoves, with a steeper incline that may affect something.

View attachment 338205

The Circuit Board may also have something to do with it. I just installed a new Rev F Blue Board in a Harman Advance which had an older Rev E green board.
One noticeable small change on the new blue board is the smaller white fuse.
Does anyone else have the new Rev F Blue Board and notice any performance changes?
Also I installed a 4 Amp AGC4 inline glass fuse in a black fuse holder from Home Depot on the yellow igniter wire in the back of the stove close to the circuit board. It must be close to the circuit board because you need slack to change the igniter. The board fuse is 6 amp so when the igniter fails it may short and will blow the 4 amp board fuse instead! It can also prevent damage to the board which may also occur! This way you can light the stove manually and run it until you can have a new igniter installed! Did anyone else do this? See pics below.
Also See the where the stove is plugged into black Tripp-Lite surge protector to save the board from surges plugged into the wall? The power strips lying on the floor are against code because a flood will short it out! Another must to protect that $250 circuit board!

 

[Ssyko]

Thanks for the pics Don 😎

The large multi leg chip (center of pics) is the IC that contains the programming for the board/stove. They have changed the programming for EPA, efficiency and minor circuitry to comply with standards and requirements.

 

[Whitenuckler]

One other thing, the P-series have minimum input ratings. The P-43 is 23,900, the P-61 is 21,400 and the P-68 is 20,200. It seems like it would be just the opposite. Anybody have an explanation as to why it works this way or is Harman just pulling numbers out of the air?

Not sure but I think they get that data from their EPA test where they measure all that. They test at full and "low" setting and measure the lbs/hour of fuel they use. They test the pellets for BTU content/lb. Since the stoves don't have the same design, there would be a difference in how much fuel they use. I have a P43 and run on the lowest settings stove mode. I burn 1 bag a day 24/7. My input BTU is 14,200/h by calculation

 

[Washed-Up]

I changed the board in my P61A last year and the algorithm is new and more efficient. With pellet usage. Distribution fan says on longer so less heat goes up and out the exhaust. I also have a 3.5a fuse inline with the igniter and that came from Dons recommendation

 

[bogieb]

Also See the where the stove is plugged into black Tripp-Lite surge protector to save the board from surges plugged into the wall? The power strips lying on the floor are against code because a flood will short it out! Another must to protect that $250 circuit board!

I elevated the APC UPS/surge protector on my basement stove by placing it on a 6" brick. Don't know if that passes code, but the brick is from the floor mounted boiler that was removed a couple of years ago. Plus, I have a raised floor down there that adds another 1/2-3/4" above the concrete.

I figure if it floods that badly, then there are much bigger things to worry about as the church steeple that is 4 blocks away from me, all downhill, would be underwater.

 

[ericofmaine]

This statement about code piqued my curiosity so I went to the good book (2023 NEC). Power strips are considered an appliance and not a receptacle per the code. The only requirement, like any appliance, is that they need to be listed. Per code, the outlet it's plugged into needs to be GFCI protected but there is nothing in there about power strips / plug in surge protectors. Article 210.8 and 210.52 for those that are curious.

Eric

 

[Whitenuckler]

This statement about code piqued my curiosity so I went to the good book (2023 NEC). Power strips are considered an appliance and not a receptacle per the code. The only requirement, like any appliance, is that they need to be listed. Per code, the outlet it's plugged into needs to be GFCI protected but there is nothing in there about power strips / plug in surge protectors. Article 210.8 and 210.52 for those that are curious.

Eric

I thought GFCI was for kitchen bathroom outdoor ect. Maybe I don't understand. An appliance does not have to be plugged into a GFCI does it?

 

[johneh]

GFCI Different places different rules
In Ontario Canada
In Ontario, Ground Fault Circuit Interrupters (GFCIs) are required in areas where water and electricity may come into contact, including bathrooms, kitchens, laundry rooms, garages, and outdoors, specifically within 1.5 meters of a sink or water source.

Here's a more detailed breakdown:

• Bathrooms:
  All outlets within 1.5 meters of a sink, tub, or shower must be GFCI protected.
  
  
• Kitchens:
  Outlets within 1.5 meters of a sink or water source must be GFCI protected.
  
  
• Laundry Rooms:
  Outlets within 1.5 meters of a laundry sink or water source must be GFCI protected.
  
  
• Garages:
  Outlets in garages, including those for vehicle block heaters, require GFCI protection.
  
  
• Outdoors:
  All exterior outlets need GFCI protection.
  
  
• Basements/Crawl Spaces:
  Outlets in basements and crawl spaces, especially near water sources, should have GFCI protection.

 

[Whitenuckler]

GFCI Different places different rules
In Ontario Canada
In Ontario, Ground Fault Circuit Interrupters (GFCIs) are required in areas where water and electricity may come into contact, including bathrooms, kitchens, laundry rooms, garages, and outdoors, specifically within 1.5 meters of a sink or water source.

Here's a more detailed breakdown:

• Bathrooms:
  All outlets within 1.5 meters of a sink, tub, or shower must be GFCI protected.
  
  
• Kitchens:
  Outlets within 1.5 meters of a sink or water source must be GFCI protected.
  
  
• Laundry Rooms:
  Outlets within 1.5 meters of a laundry sink or water source must be GFCI protected.
  
  
• Garages:
  Outlets in garages, including those for vehicle block heaters, require GFCI protection.
  
  
• Outdoors:
  All exterior outlets need GFCI protection.
  
  
• Basements/Crawl Spaces:
  Outlets in basements and crawl spaces, especially near water sources, should have GFCI protection.

I'd hate to admit it but this 1970's house and garage has many "violations".

 

[johneh]

I'd hate to admit it but this 1970's house and garage has many "violations".

Try mine from 1852 wired fist time 1923 redone 1955
200 amp service installed 1998 still way out of code
!955 service was 30 amp The joys of an old house

 

[Whitenuckler]

Try mine from 1852 wired fist time 1923 redone 1955
200 amp service installed 1998 still way out of code
!955 service was 30 amp The joys of an old house

I don't think they had electricity in 1852 so no problem. I have seen knob and tube though in one of my houses built after WWII
I know when they put the 200A in this house not long ago they put the blinders on and ignore anything they didn't do.
30A? Never heard of that. 60A is the lowest.
On a totally different but somewhat related item I ran into was that I forgot to run a ground wire to my inverter. The stove was never grounded properly however all is good now. Something to watch out for if you are connected to an inverter. UPS will be OK.

 

[ericofmaine]

John is correct about the why. In the US, the "should" about the basement is a "shall" (in other words, you will.) The only exception is security and fire alarm systems. So, you need them for a, say, sump pump even though said pump will most likely trip the GFCI...

Existing situations are fine, assuming it was built to the code in place at the time (assuming there was one!). Any time work is done, things need to be brought up to current code.

Eric

 

[danrclem]

I don't think they had electricity in 1852 so no problem.

Reminds me of an episode of The Honeymooners I saw. The TV Repairman said that his grandfather invented the television in I think the late 1700s. He was asked, did it work when it was plugged it in? He said no, because electricity hadn't been invented yet.