I read the he2 brochure again. Why did you choose return instead of parallel, since parallel has more output?
Low Temp heat emitters source
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I read the he2 brochure again. Why did you choose return instead of parallel, since parallel has more output?
The output difference wasn't that much, I the continuity of heat distribution across a 40 ft baseboard run I believe is evened out with reverse return, rather than different temps with parallel from one end to the other
I think I get it. Not home runned with separate controls, but the temperature is less when it makes the turn, but then loses more heat on its way back. I never thought of that before.
Good afternoon everyone. I've an old farm house and the baseboard in it are horrible. I'm not sure when they were installed, but they are old and beat up. I was thinking of replacing them with bigger units. I'm currently running an outdoor wood/coal boiler and I'm usually running around 150 degree water through the system. I'd like them to put out more heat. From what I was reading, I think I infer that if I made my own custom covers and made them taller, I'd increase the chimney effect and hence the heat output. Is this correct? Should I still look at also replacing these old units with newer units?
Thanks.
Thanks.
I can only tell you that I am using standard fin tube baseboard and am heating my house with VERY low temp water (the circulators run pretty much non-stop to achieve this). My house was built in 1987 so we probably have different heat loss issues but I can tell you that the only time I saw 150 degree water (excluding recovery) was when it was -15 outside and even then maybe it wasn't that high. If you just want to dress up the house take a look at the link below. I installed these when I bought my house 5 years ago and love them (they even have a tall version now). Too lazy to dig up my old invoice but for some reason I thought I paid less (thinking I paid $3 - $4k for 95% of the house - don't recall how many lineal feet that was). Not sure what a low temperature emitter costs per foot but there is no install costs with the covers. I did it myself which proves ANYONE can do it. One word of caution, my plumber swears that the covers cause a huge loss of efficiency/ The owner of the company would dispute that and based on my experience I do not see any difference in the rooms with these covers vs. the 1 or 2 rooms that have the traditional covers. The real loss comes from the lack of convection due to water temp being well below 120 most of the time. Regardless my house is 72 degrees.
www.baseboardheaters.com
I believe that's true.
The high output baseboards mentioned above would be a direct replacement and be about the same size. It'd be great (for me, lol) if you came up with some material cost estimates.
I might look around a little and see if it's possible to buy taller convector add-ons, but I think I did that a few years ago with no luck. I don't know why you couldn't make your own, if you had the skills.
John: That link doesn't work for me.
I found some stuff online about making your own baseboard covers. It is definitely possible. I was just curious if anyone on here had attempted it. I might give it a go and let you know material cost if I actually get around to doing it. On my current baseboards, the little diverter thingy's never stay open, so I know my convection isn't working like it should. Plus they just look old and worn out.
http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-make-wooden-baseboard-heater-covers/
http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-make-wooden-baseboard-heater-covers/
Take a look at the link above for some aftermarket covers. They were not cheap but I am extremely happy with how they look. The one caution I remember reading somewhere is to be cautious of what material is used in a cover. You do not want to create an insulating cover over it, you want to transfer heat. Convection is the ideal method but as one starts using low temp water convection is greatly reduced so I take BTU's wherever I can get them.
I just read the thread again some. Tom in Maine made some covers.
TCaldwell's paid $28/ft for high output baseboard. For my 103' of baseboard, that would come to $2900. Could be worse.
That wood cover looked pretty good to me. I imagine you'd take off the metal covers and left the pipe w/fins. And leave a space at the bottom so the cool floor air can come in. In my case, the restraining factor for height would be the power outlets, which would still be pretty tall.
TCaldwell's paid $28/ft for high output baseboard. For my 103' of baseboard, that would come to $2900. Could be worse.
That wood cover looked pretty good to me. I imagine you'd take off the metal covers and left the pipe w/fins. And leave a space at the bottom so the cool floor air can come in. In my case, the restraining factor for height would be the power outlets, which would still be pretty tall.
There are people out there that make these things:
![[Hearth.com] Low Temp heat emitters source](https://www.hearth.com/talk/data/attachments/176/176053-44158d38aba4dc5bbd1ddad0e9354c59.jpg?hash=-C7veaSwHd "[Hearth.com] Low Temp heat emitters source")
http://www.custommade.com/radiator-cover/by/davidgilbert/
http://www.custommade.com/radiator-cover/by/davidgilbert/
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At $28/ft it is almost the same price as just the heater cover I mentioned, of course that assumes one has the ability to install it themselves, I do not. But as I think about it, I am running temps that are mostly 100 - 120 degrees so I can't imagine I could go any lower with water temp. I know TCaldwell was "fixing' 1 room in his house that was forcing him to use higher water temps.
If you did find a way to increase the height of your housings and it still did not adequately heat the space you would have room to add another fin tube within the additional space. I have 55 feet or so of fin tube advertised on CL for a buck a foot and have had no takers.
Compare the output charts carefully. Be sure to note what SWT they are listing for their outputs.
Most of the heat emitter manufacturers have de-rate tables or formulas to determine outputs at lower temperature and or flow rates.
On some fin tube and panel rads you may be looking at a 40% or more de-rate going from a 180°SWT to 120.
Pologuy9906
Member
I started using Pensotti panel radiators. I like the warranty. I believe it was 10 years. I sized each room with low temp. I believe I used 140 degree temp. They performed great in the rooms I put them in. I had to dial them back when the boiler was on. My wife loves it 75-77. Go on Pensotti's website. I believe there's a chart that shows the de-rating as Bob spoke of. Eventually I will do my entire home with them. At least thats the plan.
Karl_northwind
Minister of Fire
Pologuy9906
Member
Karl_northwind
Minister of Fire
Download the installation manual from their website. it has the entire process.
Link to Pensotti installation manual: (broken link removed to http://www.pensotti-pna.com/pannel_rad_instalation_manual_final.pdf)
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