Lopi 33 Elite....FIRE!!!!!!!

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Rod/ Elk, I did not insulate for the reason stated in my forever flex manual. Inspector said I had a code compliant chimney, Valley Chimney sweep said all tile was in great shape, so thats what I based it on.
I did read the manual 2-3 times just to be sure I was making the right decision. Draft not a problem here.
Elk this goes backa few threads but...my wife was leaning towards the Hampton i300..she loved that look..until she saw this flush mount! She wanted the hearth open and really liked the way this was burning on display.(retailers should always keep their stoves operating during store hours..provides a visual for the ladies) this made OUR decision very easy and as Elk mentioned it just keeps things on point around the household.( I wanted the Lopi from the beginning anyway).
Don , you have a real nice looking stove! I think I saw it glowing from my house!! The stove has no problem with HEAT thats for sure. I like the variable speed fan it offers great control of the heat.
Budman THANKS..the thermo is an eyesore on the front so your suggestion was greatly appreciated, Hows your stove operating for ya? any problems?

Shane thanks man. This stove cost me what a summit would have cost me around here, and it gives us the look we wanted. I saw the Jotul but the firebox was a little smaller than what I wanted.
Thanks guys for all the help it is greatly appreciated!
 
Great job, that looks sweet!

I installed approximately 23' of ss flex liner in my chimney this year with no insulation. I do have a blockoff plate and cap sealing the top. I was under the impression that insulating the liner had to do with draft and not code. Mine is an exterior chimney and the insert drafts very well without the insulation.
 
Fist i love this stove its been the second year now and no problems what so ever. Heats our 1800 sf home with a few
fans going. Hope you enjoy yours and it looks great nice job. ;-)

kurt
 
Thanks Griz, In my short time here one comment I have is that even if things are code compliant you should always do more. The big D***K syndrome ya know. Keep up with the Jones's. Just MO.

Budman, I have approximately 2400 sq ft. Downstairs is 1600 of it with a frontto back living room/ kitchen breezeway. There is a sunken formal room and dining room down as well. Center staircase with a loft/ 3 bedrooms and 2 full baths up. The downstairs has been 76-78/ upstairs 70-72. Ceiling fan in kitchen. The temps are 20's at night 40's daytime. I haven't pushed the stove yet as I am awaiting the COLD weather...The thermo is much better in its new place too. Thanks

Happy New year to all!!!!
 
elkimmeg said:
Hog Hearthtools is right. I have not hammered away at this for a while. In order to meet UL listing for most liners they are listed to be installed with insulation
Since this is the time of year for reflection. Many times it is impossible to get a 6" liner with insulation down an 8/8 or 8/12 flue the inside measurement of these flues is 6. 3/4 or 6. 7/8"

Most outside flexible liners exceed 6" add 1/4" insulation and wire mesh and in a perfect world it fits. But concret snots stick out.
All clay flue lined are not lined up perfectly, not all are straight runs. Code does allow me some discression to approve situations. In these cases ,
I know dead air space plays a part providing insulation. If I see a decent block off plate installation and seal.
Now if I see the liner installed in an exterior 12/12 flue, there is no excuse for not having insulation , there is plenty of room.

There is another option and I am going to ask that members debate this one

Is it better to install a 5.5" insulated liner in the 8/12 exterior flue Or the 6" liner not insulated.. Which code exception is the lesser of faults
the reduction of the cross -sectional code or the required Ul listing of insulation?

Regency supplies the 5.5" liner for the 6" flue collar stove?

BTW good job that insert looks good

In another thread, someone mentioned vermiculite as an insulation material, apparently with the idea of putting on a bottom blockoff plate, then pouring the loose vermiculite into the gap between the liner and the tile until the space was filled, then putting on the top cap.

The objection was raised that this would create a major mess if the bottom plate were ever removed, and I could see a potential problem in that the liner wouldn't be guaranteed centered in the tile, but this might be a way of getting at least some insulation into that space. Would doing something like that meet code or would it cause problems? (I think the context of the earlier discussion was more related to solving draft issues than in meeting code...)

Mentioning out of curiosity.

Gooserider
 
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