B holler thanks. Thanks to everyone. I just thought a non epa stove was the best. I grew up with non epa stoves. And they gave the heat. I guess it is time to look at diff things. The englander looks nice
Looking for non epa compliant wood burning stove
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brenndatomu
Minister of Fire
Agreed.
And if you are gonna start your shopping locally, IMO, there is only one model available at big box stores that is even worth a look, just FYI. (made by Drolet)
JA600L
Minister of Fire
I think a lot of us started out hating the Epa idea. I used to heat with a thin gauge smoke dragon. I had all these ideas on how I was going to modify it. The more I read on here I realized just how bad of an idea that was. Now I have one of the most efficient stoves on the market and I would never go back.
I also picked up lots of good advice on insulating my basement. You should pay close attention to those comments. I am also on the 3 year wood seasoning program.
Efficient stove, good insulating, and 3 year seasoned wood is a winning combination.
I also picked up lots of good advice on insulating my basement. You should pay close attention to those comments. I am also on the 3 year wood seasoning program.
Efficient stove, good insulating, and 3 year seasoned wood is a winning combination.
brad wilton
Feeling the Heat
J.a roby ultimate wood stove 3800sqft 25inch logs epa certified has a hook up to run two pipes like a furnace heats my stone uninsulated stone house with ease.it is in canada but withexchange rate around 1200 bucks i paid 1700 tax in on special vermontsnot to far
Happy overfiring..... make a spot next to the H1, or several for that matter...
The only problem with a furnace, is it will eat just as much wood as the non epa stoves.
There is some better than others.
The only problem with a furnace, is it will eat just as much wood as the non epa stoves.
There is some better than others.
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brad wilton
Feeling the Heat
Hey hogwildz,it's not a furnace,but they made it so you can run pipe from it to some floor registers to help bring up heat from basement
Well, it looks like a stove, but where do you hook the ducts?
http://woodstoves.net/j.a.roby/ultimate-wood-stove.htm
How much usable firebox is there, @brad wilton? Have you ever measured it? Never heard much about this stove, and you're the only regular poster I know of that has one.
*I see it's an option under 'pricing'. I looked at the manual, but it doesn't show how it's hooked up.
http://woodstoves.net/j.a.roby/ultimate-wood-stove.htm
How much usable firebox is there, @brad wilton? Have you ever measured it? Never heard much about this stove, and you're the only regular poster I know of that has one.
*I see it's an option under 'pricing'. I looked at the manual, but it doesn't show how it's hooked up.
brad wilton
Feeling the Heat
The dome on top has two round plates that you can punch out and connect ducts it comes with a plate to seal of vent for blower to force air up pipes .never tried but the blower i have i think it would do good job.the option is for the blowers one is twin fan and one is basket fan .i would say 22 inches side to side i find it to be a very good heater no complaints so far knok on wood lol .maybe considered a hybrid? I use as a stove and works fine.i guess i will have to write a little review like jeff_t said it's not very well known
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brad wilton
Feeling the Heat
I quote myself:
All other large cat stoves should be out of your price range but when you want to take a look: BlazeKing stoves, Woodstock stoves, several Buck stoves, Kuma Sequoia, some newer models from Regency and Lopi
All other large cat stoves should be out of your price range but when you want to take a look: BlazeKing stoves, Woodstock stoves, several Buck stoves, Kuma Sequoia, some newer models from Regency and Lopi
Do you know whether your stove is UL-listed for the US? A stove tested for US-specs still needs an ULC-label; I don't know how it works in reverse.
Yes, several. Other than Woodstock stoves they have not been mentioned due to budget constraints (>$2000) and an expressed dislike for cat stoves.
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The Roby Ultimate is EPA listed, but at 7.1gms/hr tested it may be heading off the list as of next January due to the new 4.5gm limit. Obidiah's sells Roby stoves for now in the US. We don't know how well this stove will stand up, it is a fairly new model. It should not have to be pushed as hard due to its large size if fully seasoned wood is being burned. With unseasoned wood results could still be disappointing.
http://woodstoves.net/j.a.roby/ultimate-wood-stove.htm
http://woodstoves.net/j.a.roby/ultimate-wood-stove.htm
As a freedom loving, EPA hatin' American, I too, was very hesitant to cave into buying anything the EPA had forced upon me. But I caved in and I can say that I LOVE my EPA certified stove/fireplace. It burns clean, it burns efficient (meaning I burn less wood for the same heat input to my home), and it can really put out the heat. Yes, initial cost is a bit higher, and it may take a bit more maintenance, but overall I'm satisfied.
FWIW, mine came with a 25 year warranty, which should easily meet your "lasts 10 years" requirement. You may have to replace firebricks and other parts, but it should last...
Good deal. There is a learning curve with a new stove, especially when switching from a non-EPA stove to a modern one. But once you get it dialed in and adjust burning habits they heat great. When you get a chance can you add your stove (fireplace?) to your signature line? Is this the Kozy?
Like many others here the whole burning clean thing was not really a major factor in my decision to go with an EPA stove . . . I mainly liked the idea of getting the same amount of heat (if not more) while burning less wood. Burning less wood = more time and/or more money in my pocket.
That said, once you have a stove burning with a secondary burn (a non cat stove) and think you may have inadvertently opened a portal to hell in your woodstove . . . or see those lazy flames slowly dancing in the fire box . . . or have the secondary "fireworks" occasionally burst at the top part of the firebox with little to no flames on your wood . . . you will be mesmerized. And then there is the whole first month deal where you will inevitably have a clean burn going with a secondary burn or cat engaged . . . and you will rush out to see little to no smoke coming from your chimney . . . and at this point while you revel in the idea of burning so stealthily so that none of your neighbors even know you are burning you will may start to think "Maybe this whole EPA stove thing isn't so bad."
I suspect folks who went through the change over in the 1980s may have a bit of a sour taste in their mouth as early tech in those days wasn't the greatest . . . and then there was . . . and still is . . . the learning curve . . . the big thing being that both cats and secondary burners really need well seasoned wood to maximize the heat and ease of use. Cutting in the summer to burn in the fall may work OK for older stoves, but it generally doesn't work so well with EPA stoves.
Keep learning . . .
That said, once you have a stove burning with a secondary burn (a non cat stove) and think you may have inadvertently opened a portal to hell in your woodstove . . . or see those lazy flames slowly dancing in the fire box . . . or have the secondary "fireworks" occasionally burst at the top part of the firebox with little to no flames on your wood . . . you will be mesmerized. And then there is the whole first month deal where you will inevitably have a clean burn going with a secondary burn or cat engaged . . . and you will rush out to see little to no smoke coming from your chimney . . . and at this point while you revel in the idea of burning so stealthily so that none of your neighbors even know you are burning you will may start to think "Maybe this whole EPA stove thing isn't so bad."
I suspect folks who went through the change over in the 1980s may have a bit of a sour taste in their mouth as early tech in those days wasn't the greatest . . . and then there was . . . and still is . . . the learning curve . . . the big thing being that both cats and secondary burners really need well seasoned wood to maximize the heat and ease of use. Cutting in the summer to burn in the fall may work OK for older stoves, but it generally doesn't work so well with EPA stoves.
Keep learning . . .
brad wilton
Feeling the Heat
Not necessarily. Most stoves fall below the 4.5 gm limit. That has been the WA state standard for awhile. The inexpensive 30NC is quite a clean burner at 1.6g/hr..
JA600L
Minister of Fire
Do you think those stoves will pass if they ever use real cordwood vs the current test fuel.
quotejso
Feeling the Heat
Yea my englander always puts out smoke maybe my wood ain't the driest but it smokes especially after reload.
E
Any stove is going to smoke some at startup or reload untill what ever the secondary combustion is gets up to operating temp. and the fact that your wood is not the driest will make it smoke more and for a longer period of time
I was talking about a furnace. No sense wasting time and money on a stove, when the job calls for a furnace.
Ashful
Minister of Fire
Sometimes expectations can be lowered to meet the situation, as is my case. I set out four years ago to heat 100% with wood, having seen so many here do it, but have only managed a 50% reduction in use.
Like you, I have concerns about the OP over-firing any stove they buy. Some comments made in the first few post have me thinking this guy has a habit of running them hard. I'm just waiting for the, "this new stove is a POS thread," but hoping I'm wrong on that.
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