Looking for Blaze King Experience

[Highbeam]

How do you run the 30-NC in mild weather? Still pedal to the metal or a more moderate long burn?

Off in the weeds alert!

Pedal to the metal but in milder weather the building needs less loads to get the thermal mass up to a comfortable temperature. Overheating the space just charges the slab for a longer heat life. The slab is surrounded by 2" of foam, then R-50 ceiling, R19 on the sides. It actually holds heat pretty well once it's up to temperature, that thermal mass effect is real.

I would love to demo the american solartechnics heat pump water heater for space heating. The slab is radiant ready.

I did my first inside the stove welding job on it last week. There is a little curtain in front of the flue opening up above the baffle. Held on with three skip welds. One popped loose so I got to buzz it back on. It's so nice having the flue right there to evacuate the welding fumes!

 

[Highbeam]

The most efficient stove is the one that will put out the most heat for a given time,

See, I think of efficiency differently. The most efficient stove is the one that delivers the most heat to the space per lb of wood. Emissions rates have nothing to do with it. There must be a half dozen things referred to as "efficiency" but none of them matter as much to me as how much heat is wasted up the stack.

 

[bholler]

See, I think of efficiency differently. The most efficient stove is the one that delivers the most heat to the space per lb of wood. Emissions rates have nothing to do with it. There must be a half dozen things referred to as "efficiency" but none of them matter as much to me as how much heat is wasted up the stack.

I agree with you 95%. The only thing I disagree with at all is emmisions do have some correlation with efficency because in many cases those emmisions are wasted fuel that could potentially be converted into BTUs. Otherwise I agree.

 

[Highbeam]

I can see how folks could make the mistake that low emissions always means high efficiency since it is possible to increase efficiency by figuring out a way to burn that otherwise wasted fuel to make heat. Often times you can increase efficiency while reducing emissions and that's great but as we also know, some designs actually dump heat up the flue in an effort to reduce emissions (cough, hearthstone, cough). There are plenty of examples of highly efficient but also dirty stoves, like my princess for example. Or very low emissions stoves that are horribly inefficient.

Efficiency and emissions are not linked but good designs can improve both. Buyer beware!

 

[bholler]

I can see how folks could make the mistake that low emissions always means high efficiency since it is possible to increase efficiency by figuring out a way to burn that otherwise wasted fuel to make heat. Often times you can increase efficiency while reducing emissions and that's great but as we also know, some designs actually dump heat up the flue in an effort to reduce emissions (cough, hearthstone, cough). There are plenty of examples of highly efficient but also dirty stoves, like my princess for example. Or very low emissions stoves that are horribly inefficient.

Efficiency and emissions are not linked but good designs can improve both. Buyer beware!

I agree you can have low emissions without high efficiency. And you can have reasonably high efficiency while being higher in emmisions. But ultimately you will need to burn up all of that available fuel to continue to increase efficency.

So I agree you are absolutely correct they are not directly linked at all. But there is a correlation between the two to some extent.

Basically you can reduce emmisions pretty well without really increasing efficency. But in order to continue to increase efficency emmisions will go down.

 

[Sawset]

Emmisions:
3gr/hr
.006lb/hr
6000BTU/lb
About 40BTU/hr

Air:
BTU = TempRise(F) x CFM x 1.08

Stack temp and/or stack volume CFM have a far greater influence on efficiency than emissions,
almost making emissions insignificant?

 

[bholler]

Emmisions:
3gr/hr
.006lb/hr
6000BTU/lb
About 40BTU/hr

Air:
BTU = TempRise(F) x CFM x 1.08

Stack temp and/or stack volume CFM have a far greater influence on efficiency than emissions,
almost making emissions insignificant (with regards to efficiency)?

I agree completely. Stack temp and volume are the biggest factor for efficency. The problem is we really can't reduce stack temps much more on the more efficient woodstoves without getting condensation in the stack which leads to creosote problems. The only way to increase efficency on them is with more complete combustion. At some point the combustion would be complete enough to be able to drop stack temps without producing creosote. But we are a long way from that now.

Now there are lots of stoves out there that still waste allot of heat up the stack and I have a feeling at least in the start of the new 2020 stoves we will see more of that. But only time will tell.

 

[jetsam]

I agree completely. Stack temp and volume are the biggest factor for efficency. The problem is we really can't reduce stack temps much more on the more efficient woodstoves without getting condensation in the stack which leads to creosote problems. The only way to increase efficency on them is with more complete combustion. At some point the combustion would be complete enough to be able to drop stack temps without producing creosote. But we are a long way from that now.

Now there are lots of stoves out there that still waste allot of heat up the stack and I have a feeling at least in the start of the new 2020 stoves we will see more of that. But only time will tell.

Why isn't there a hybrid gas/wood stove that uses gas to kickstart the reburn and keep it up to temp at very low air settings? Seems like that could work both to keep cats above 500, and to keep tubes above 1000.

Would also be a fine way to confuse the hell out of everyone trying to put standardized efficiency numbers on woodstoves.

 

[Ashful]

Why isn't there a hybrid gas/wood stove that uses gas to kickstart the reburn and keep it up to temp at very low air settings? Seems like that could work both to keep cats above 500, and to keep tubes above 1000.

Shut your mouth! Now I’m going to need to run a gas line into my fireplaces?

 

[jetsam]

Shut your mouth! Now I’m going to need to run a gas line into my fireplaces?

You can turn it down to 1000 BTUs and the cat warmer will keep the cat at 550.

Whatcha say?

 

[BKVP]

You can turn it down to 1000 BTUs and the cat warmer will keep the cat at 550.

Whatcha say?

Electric heated cats used with O2 sensors were tried....failed miserably.

 

[jetsam]

Electric heated cats used with O2 sensors were tried....failed miserably.

Huh, what was the problem?

A 600w electric cat heater would be a lot easier to sell too, as people are already running 125v/15a to the stove for the 2a blower.

 

[BKVP]

Link no longer working but from our site here....these were sold for products including outdoor boilers. Fairbanks bought many to help...they failed...100% failed. I don't think the product is on the market. Very sharp guy runs company and are now EPA certified lab.

 

[jetsam]

The picture isn't very clear, but it appears to be dieselfoil with a resistive heater on one side?

 

[BKVP]

The picture isn't very clear, but it appears to be dieselfoil with a resistive heater on one side?

Not certain. But baby did it fail...

 

[jetsam]

Not certain. But baby did it fail...

Well, so did all dieselfoil cats. Whether or not it's heated hardly matters.

Still sounds like a solid idea to me...

 

[Woody Stover]

Well, so did all dieselfoil cats

They deformed a bit, but not too much if you were prudent. They didn't fail, and they worked for me for years.

 

[Nz3000owner]

i made a decision and I just put a deposit on a floor model Ashford 30 enamel chestnut brown.

I will be picking it up after I get the NZ3000 out of the house. I will start a new thread once I begin the install.

 

[begreen]

Closing the thread, thanks for the update.