Looking for a New Stove
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I agree with you on all points. I was just pointing out that ducting can be done also if the stove is made for it.
Just shy of $8,000 for a new stove and chimney work all said and done.
The juper cables are for the blower.
The stove is homemade, it currently heats the house pretty well. Just burns out fast. Im not sure if I really loose much heat due to the walls.
The plan is to have a wood stove heat the basement and radiate up through the floor. I would put 4 vents/pass throughs in the floor so the heat can naturally rise.
Tough crowd you guys are.
The juper cables are for the blower.
The stove is homemade, it currently heats the house pretty well. Just burns out fast. Im not sure if I really loose much heat due to the walls.
The plan is to have a wood stove heat the basement and radiate up through the floor. I would put 4 vents/pass throughs in the floor so the heat can naturally rise.
Tough crowd you guys are.
I bet a Woodstock Ideal Steel, with the adjustable height, might vent into the existing opening...or there are some other steel stoves that rear-vent, such as some of the Jotuls. Need to know more about the layout of the area you are trying to heat...two stories I guess? Just mainly want heat on the first floor, with cooler second-floor bedrooms? How about the opening from the basement to the first floor, just a standard staircase and regular-size door opening? Is the stairs close to the stove? The more you can flesh out the situation, and what you would like to do, the better as far as the suggestions you will get.
Yes you are loosing allot of heat through those walls. Beleive me it makes a massive difference when you insulate the walls
Not trying to give you a hard time. We want you, and everyone that reads this thread in the future to be safe. On that note, in many jurisdictions floor vents need fusible-linked fire dampers. Check with the local inspecting authority for your area.
jetsam
Minister of Fire
I actually predicted worse responses when I saw the photo... I think you stunned 'em into tactfulness!
BKVP
Minister of Fire
If you relocate the flue entry point, go for the stove you wanted in the first place. Just get 36" of rise from top of stove flue collar.
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Not sure if I can get 36" the ceilings are only 6.5'. The already existing duct work is right in font of the chimney. So I only have about 5' ground to duct where the stove pretty much HAS to sit.
Change of plans possibly... I would like to put a small stove in place of this corner cabinet and forget heating the basement. On the first floor, essentially two rooms and the second has four smaller rooms. What's your thoughts would only be heating 1,200 square feet just shy of eight foot ceilings.
![[Hearth.com] Looking for a New Stove](https://www.hearth.com/talk/attachments/20170312_145527-webp.195916/ "[Hearth.com] Looking for a New Stove")
That will be much more efficient. More heat and much less wood consumed. The heating success will depend on how open this room is to the rest of the first floor and stairwell.
Note that looks like a return air register. If so, that is a code gotcha. It is supposed to be at least 10ft away from the stove. Not a show stopper but a consideration for inspection.
Note that looks like a return air register. If so, that is a code gotcha. It is supposed to be at least 10ft away from the stove. Not a show stopper but a consideration for inspection.
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Very good decision, IMO.
Put the stove where people spend time, so they can take in the infrared rays, "warm their bones by the fire."
(Also, the low ceiling in the basement would further limit your stove options.)
Put the stove where people spend time, so they can take in the infrared rays, "warm their bones by the fire."
(Also, the low ceiling in the basement would further limit your stove options.)
How do I make it code. The furnace hasn't been used in 10 years. I have no clue which vents do what, have three in this room two of which will be within 10'...
Well I would follow the ducts in the basement and see if they are supplies or returns If you never use the furnace you could always disconnect the duct work from them and patch the holes if any of them are returns
Yes it would be to code if you closed them off. Also if they are supply ducts there is no problem at all.
![[Hearth.com] Looking for a New Stove](https://www.hearth.com/talk/data/attachments/195/195947-054bbae345acd5e738c2c8a770810ab5.jpg?hash=9mIOpieWua "[Hearth.com] Looking for a New Stove")
It seems to me that the circular ones are the cold air returns, correct? The one off to the left is the actual heating part?
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![[Hearth.com] Looking for a New Stove](/talk/data/attachments/195/195948-f6a1b2fed2f57befb83dc8a3c142e5e3.jpg?hash=x2BP-In3Yr)
Which side has the burner under it? That will be the supply side. If you pull the access cover on the other side it will have the blower and filter in that side it is the return side.
Its definitely a return. No biggie I will disconnect it and cover it up make it official looking.
The returns can usually be told from the supplies by the vanes. Supply vents usually have a damper with a little handle that allows you to adjust the flow. Return grilles are unrestricted. Sounds like you have it figured out. Now may be a good time to look for a freestanding china cabinet .
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