Looking at a used Husqvarna 357XP

[mayhem]

Seems like this is a more or less ideal saw for me, big enough to cut anything I can throw at it (I got by for years with an 18" Craftsman that was usually adequate, but somtimes definitely down on power), light enough to use all day and built well enough to last me a long time.

I see a nice looking used one on CL for $400. New bar and chain, covers and motor look clean, photo shows compression at 160psi. If I can swing the money I'm there. What should I check on this saw when I inspect it other than starting it and running it through a log?

 

[HittinSteel]

Below is a list compiled and borrowed from another site. Rather extensive list, but gives you many ideas. If the saw is clean and it has good compression, I like to make some test cuts if possible. 160 is very good compression. I'd have the guy reproduce the test while I'm there. Try to pull the saw without the decomp on, it should have a lot of resistance at 160 lbs. The 357Xp should be absolutely night and day over your old craftsman....if not, something is up with the saw. Make sure the chain is good and sharp because that could certainly effect the saws performance and have you thinking that maybe you should pass on an otherwise great used saw.

I also agree that it may be the perfect size saw for a firewood cutter and should with proper maintenance last you an awful long time (maybe a lifetime).

BTW....... offer $350 and maybe meet at $375. Good luck!

A rusty muffler is generally a sign of wear
Check for cracks in housing
Check for damage to bar mounting studs
Is the chain tensioner ok?
Does the sprocket show signs of wear and tear?
Look for mismatched fasterners and washes, indicating possible stripped threads
Are all fly-wheel fins in place?
Any broken or torn bits in suspension?

FILTERS
Check that fuel and air filters are in good shape. Lousy filters are a sign of poor maintenance

IGNITION
Take out the spark plug and check that there is a strong spark

CRANK BEARINGS
Remove the chain and check that the crank bearings do not have excessive play

CYLINDER AND PISTON
Remove muffler to inspect that piston/cylinder do not have scoring

COMPRESSION
If you can measure it, it should be 120 psi or better
If not, hold the saw in the start handle to test compression
Check compression also when warm

TEST RUN
Check that the clutch is not slipping
Check that the chain does not spin at idle
Check that the chain brake functions
Check that the saw idles and accelerates well
On idle, check that the crank seals/bearings are ok by shifting the saw to left and right side. The saw should not change rpm
If possible, use it for two hour's hard cut

 

[mywaynow]

Keep in mind that a new 359 is under 500 and comes with a 2 year warranty. Same saw with .2 hp less (3.7 vs 3.9) and less rpms. I almost bought a used saw before opting for a new 359, but got scared out of the used saw market when I wieghed the cost of any rebuild or substantial repair. These Huskys hold value and you pay for used saws. You may be just fine with that saw as long as it was taken care of, and as long as the seller is not selling what he believes is going to be a maintenance nightmare in the near future.

 

[HittinSteel]

Compression test and a peak at the piston and cylinder with the muffler removed does an awful lot to relieve concerns IMO. But, the 359 is a great saw too!

 

[mayhem]

This is the link to the CL ad. Saw looks darn near mint in the pics. Muffler could have been replaced or painted.

Have to see if I cna afford it before I waste anyone's time. was gunning for $300 a few days ago and $400 wouldn't have been too much of a stretch, but I just dropped $550 on a new kitchen stove the other day so I might be forced back into the Craftsman/Poulan category.

(broken link removed to http://hartford.craigslist.org/tls/2283177035.html)

 

[mywaynow]

Looks more than clean. They sell for around 7 new, and that saw seems pretty close to new. Won't last long at 4.

 

[holland_patrick]

Not sure on the numbers but there is a pawn shop in newington ct that has a 345 and a 335 both are under 250 and looked to be clean just another option if your driving to ct.

 

[snowleopard]

Thanks for sharing this. I'd like to propose that it be turned into a sticky, since so many of us have come here for help in shopping for used chain saws.
Possibly a bit of tweaking to make things more clear to those of us who didn't take the small-engines class when we should have. I've the formatted sections below show the parts that weren't real clear to me.

Below is a list compiled and borrowed from another site. Rather extensive list, but gives you many ideas. If the saw is clean and it has good compression, I like to make some test cuts if possible. 160 is very good compression. I'd have the guy reproduce the test while I'm there. Try to pull the saw without the decomp on, it should have a lot of resistance at 160 lbs. The 357Xp should be absolutely night and day over your old craftsman....if not, something is up with the saw. Make sure the chain is good and sharp because that could certainly effect the saws performance and have you thinking that maybe you should pass on an otherwise great used saw.

I also agree that it may be the perfect size saw for a firewood cutter and should with proper maintenance last you an awful long time (maybe a lifetime).

BTW....... offer $350 and maybe meet at $375. Good luck!

A rusty muffler is generally a sign of wear
Check for cracks in housing
Check for damage to bar mounting studs
Is the chain tensioner ok?
Does the sprocket show signs of wear and tear?
Look for mismatched fasterners and washes, indicating possible stripped threads
Are all fly-wheel fins in place?
Any broken or torn bits in suspension?
FILTERS
Check that fuel and air filters are in good shape. Lousy filters are a sign of poor maintenance

IGNITION
Take out the spark plug and check that there is a strong spark

CRANK BEARINGS
Remove the chain and check that the crank bearings do not have excessive play

CYLINDER AND PISTON
Remove muffler to inspect that piston/cylinder do not have scoring

COMPRESSION
If you can measure it, it should be 120 psi or better
If not, hold the saw in the start handle to test compression
Check compression also when warm

TEST RUN
Check that the clutch is not slipping
Check that the chain does not spin at idle
Check that the chain brake functions
Check that the saw idles and accelerates well
On idle, check that the crank seals/bearings are ok by shifting the saw to left and right side. The saw should not change rpm
If possible, use it for two hour's hard cut

 

[HittinSteel]

I don't know what the first highlighted blue means either LOL..... maybe just a general overview ????

The second highlighted portion simply means "the rope compression test". If you don't have a compression tester, grab the starter rope and see if the "compression" will support the weight of the saw i.e. the rope does not pull "out" under the weight of the saw, or it does, but very slowly. Basically a way of determining whether or not it is difficult to pull the rope which is a good sign of strong compression. A saw with low compression will fall like a ton of bricks. (hope that wasn't confusing lol).

 

[muncybob]

A sticky of this would be a good idea...maybe even with pics of what a scored piston may look like compared to a good one?

 

[mayhem]

Ad is down, so the owner must have sold it. I knew it wouldn't last, but now I know thats the class saw I'm looking for...not a plastic motor, good power, reasonably light, will do a 20" bar effortlessly. Too bad, it looked like a wicked nice saw...there will be others though. I see alot of homeowners go out and buy saws like that fr one time cleanup operations or try it out nad find its alot more work to c/s/s your own firewood than to pay the guy with the truck to deliver it.

Well now I have a handy guide for evaluating a used saw so I can be more ready to pounce when I see one.

Thanks all.

 

[midwestcoast]

Keep in mind that a new 359 is under 500 and comes with a 2 year warranty. Same saw with .2 hp less (3.7 vs 3.9) and less rpms. I almost bought a used saw before opting for a new 359, but got scared out of the used saw market when I wieghed the cost of any rebuild or substantial repair. These Huskys hold value and you pay for used saws. You may be just fine with that saw as long as it was taken care of, and as long as the seller is not selling what he believes is going to be a maintenance nightmare in the near future.

+1, 359 geared more to the firewood user. Decent used ones out there for $300 or bit less. Pull a 20" bar no prob. Never ran a 357. Of course I'm biased since I have a 359. Wonder if a casual user would ever notice a difference btwn the 2? Weight is close to a 455 Rancher. Seems a bit heavier than Husky states in stats.

 

[Battenkiller]

A sticky of this would be a good idea...maybe even with pics of what a scored piston may look like compared to a good one?

No problemo. Maybe even the scored piston that just came out of my own used 357XP? :shut:


"Rope" compression test wouldn't work on mine because it had auto-decompression. I shoulda pulled the muffler and looked, but I didn't. Kind of a "tailgate" purchase. Lucky I didn't pay that much for the saw. Photos show:


1. The root cause of the problem - cracked auto-decompression hose allowed a massive air leak which leaned the saw out too much, starving the moving parts of oil.

2. The scored piston and ring.

3. Final bill after a complete overhaul. It needed many other new parts, including a new clutch - $200 worth in all.


I paid $225 for the saw, so I now have over $500 in a totally reconditioned saw (replaced the auto-decomp with a manual valve). Runs like wildfire now, but big time sticker shock. Amazingly, this same saw cut a few cord of locust with little problem. Only outward symptoms were hard starting, poor idle, doggy throttle response and cutting out before it had a chance to get hot.

Now I know. Always pull the muffler and look at the piston. Two bolts and you're looking at the inside, and that tells you lots about how hard the saw has been run.

 

[mywaynow]

Thanks for making feel like I finally made a good choice when spending my hard earned money!

 

[4 cords]

I know the ad on c l keep the number or call him and tell him you are looking for a saw , he gets them from everywhere and cleans -tunes them up and posts them . I think he likes to tinker or has a small shop , see his posts often only good saws husq, stihl . I may call him soon myself for a spare saw- good luck let us know what happens

 

[Flavo]

(broken link removed to http://newlondon.craigslist.org/tls/2281849334.html)
just in case you are interested. Don't know anything about the saw. But it's close to the same price point.