Log Splitter
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Woodsroad said:
Usually, you should fill the appropriate level of fluid, take the boot off the spark plug so the engine can't turn over, then pull the starter rope about 10 times to circulate the fluid through the system. Then you can start the engine and cycle the cylinder a few times. The system self bleeds air out of the tank. Then check and set the proper fluid level. You shouldn't crank over the engine without first introducing fluid into the pump.
Thanks.
I have a tub of Pennzoil Hydra-Trans. Is it suitable for use in this log splitter?
(broken link removed to http://www.pennzoil.com/TechData/Pdsheet/DomesticMarketing/Gear&Transmission/pdf/HydraTranz.PDF)
I have a tub of Pennzoil Hydra-Trans. Is it suitable for use in this log splitter?
(broken link removed to http://www.pennzoil.com/TechData/Pdsheet/DomesticMarketing/Gear&Transmission/pdf/HydraTranz.PDF)
I'm no oil guy and shy away from "what's the best", but everything I've read says hydro fluid (AW32) or ATF fluid. Lowes sells a 5 gallon pail of AW32 for $45. The owners manual should specify what should be used. That link looks like it will work, but again, I'm no oil guy.
http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=188584-30102-733704&lpage=none
http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=188584-30102-733704&lpage=none
No, the HF manual just says "Hydraulic Oil".
I think the Hydra-Trans should work. It looks similar to other "multi-use" oils.
I think the Hydra-Trans should work. It looks similar to other "multi-use" oils.
This is from Northern tool.
"We appreciate your contacting NorthernTool.com.
This 2-stage pump requires a 5 HP Horizontal shaft engine
We recommend using DEXTRON 3 AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION FLUID in hydraulic systems.
I used ISO 68 and is VERY thick when cold. I'm switching to something thinner.
"We appreciate your contacting NorthernTool.com.
This 2-stage pump requires a 5 HP Horizontal shaft engine
We recommend using DEXTRON 3 AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION FLUID in hydraulic systems.
I used ISO 68 and is VERY thick when cold. I'm switching to something thinner.
Just received this from CHEVRON.
"Thank you for your inquiry.I will assume this is a hydraulic oil, ISO 68 just says SAE 20, it is a type of viscosity. That is a heavy viscosity for a hydraulic oil in winter, even in Tennessee. Dexron III works well as a multigrade hydraulic oil, with a pour point of -50. Drain the reservoir and replace with the Dexron III, or what we call today MD-3. I have attached a product data sheet on the product."
I do understand they want $$$ for Dextron III.
Hope this helps.
"Thank you for your inquiry.I will assume this is a hydraulic oil, ISO 68 just says SAE 20, it is a type of viscosity. That is a heavy viscosity for a hydraulic oil in winter, even in Tennessee. Dexron III works well as a multigrade hydraulic oil, with a pour point of -50. Drain the reservoir and replace with the Dexron III, or what we call today MD-3. I have attached a product data sheet on the product."
I do understand they want $$$ for Dextron III.
Hope this helps.
I used the Harbor Freight 30 tonner today for an hour or two.
It's a dream.
I don't have anything to compare it to but it worked great.
I had it on 1/2 throttle and it split everything but one particularly gnarly piece, and I got that by throttling up.
I worked on the non-engine side.
With one or two particularly large pieces a piece did drop on the pump, but I get around that by just holding onto that piece and let the near piece drop (I am splitting 16" pieces).
They bounce off the tires all the time, with no problem (I can see problems there if there were fenders). I use the tire to stage the big pieces before I put it on the rail.
You have to keep pressure on the handle to keep the ram going which is a safety feature I guess.
There is no auto reverse; you push the handle back and the ram goes back without your hand on it and it keeps going until it's fully retracted.
I think things could be sped up some if I put some of those spacers in there from Tractor Supply. Then it would retract to say 18" while I get a piece on the ground or something. I'm scared about scratching the ram, but others say no problem.
The engine seems pretty quiet (especially with ear muffs on, lol), but seriously, I think it is pretty quiet.
The manual said to put in 2.5 gallons of hyd fluid, which I thought I did. I wound up putting in another 2 gallons though to bring the level up to about 2" below the bottom of the filler hole, which comes in from the side at the top of the reservoir. It has a large diameter cylinder, so maybe that's it-the reservoir doesn't look that big anyway.
It's a dream.
I don't have anything to compare it to but it worked great.
I had it on 1/2 throttle and it split everything but one particularly gnarly piece, and I got that by throttling up.
I worked on the non-engine side.
With one or two particularly large pieces a piece did drop on the pump, but I get around that by just holding onto that piece and let the near piece drop (I am splitting 16" pieces).
They bounce off the tires all the time, with no problem (I can see problems there if there were fenders). I use the tire to stage the big pieces before I put it on the rail.
You have to keep pressure on the handle to keep the ram going which is a safety feature I guess.
There is no auto reverse; you push the handle back and the ram goes back without your hand on it and it keeps going until it's fully retracted.
I think things could be sped up some if I put some of those spacers in there from Tractor Supply. Then it would retract to say 18" while I get a piece on the ground or something. I'm scared about scratching the ram, but others say no problem.
The engine seems pretty quiet (especially with ear muffs on, lol), but seriously, I think it is pretty quiet.
The manual said to put in 2.5 gallons of hyd fluid, which I thought I did. I wound up putting in another 2 gallons though to bring the level up to about 2" below the bottom of the filler hole, which comes in from the side at the top of the reservoir. It has a large diameter cylinder, so maybe that's it-the reservoir doesn't look that big anyway.
I put down the link earlier in the thread for hydraulic cylinder stops, but here it is again: (broken link removed to http://www.tsrparts.com/straw-choppers-2002-depth-stop-price-list.html)
Looks like it might be 40 bucks.
A tad steep, but it could save some time.
Looks like it might be 40 bucks.
A tad steep, but it could save some time.
I've looked at little closer at my splitter and I'm not so sure it would work because there is a hole for the log remover that might cause a problem.
I've noted in another thread that the cylinder intermittently leaks and that HF is replacing it.
Woodsroad: What has your experience been so far?
I've been standing on the non-engine side with the splitter in the horizontal position.
How do you approach it?
I've noted in another thread that the cylinder intermittently leaks and that HF is replacing it.
Woodsroad: What has your experience been so far?
I've been standing on the non-engine side with the splitter in the horizontal position.
How do you approach it?
![[Hearth.com] Log Splitter](/talk/data/attachments/3/3905-1ff3467e20bbe927011dee00f4676b0d.jpg?hash=GbXsoz4tbe)
- May 19, 2007
- 149
I was just tickled that I found the drain plug.
Now I have to find a NAPA filter number for it.
The original HF part number is 29490 for $10.91 and has to be ordered.
I'm still looking for a NAPA number.
Now I have to find a NAPA filter number for it.
The original HF part number is 29490 for $10.91 and has to be ordered.
I'm still looking for a NAPA number.
![[Hearth.com] Log Splitter](/talk/data/attachments/3/3951-a1416c1c97402cb1de015bed766ebc9f.jpg?hash=ZZwUV1sQzI)
velvetfoot said:I've been splitting vertical for the last several times and it's awesome!
Roll the rounds and sit on a bucket. No lifting. No bending down to pick up splits.
Turns out it's easy to change to vertical, not heavy.
Awesome.
By George I think he's got it!
Egg-zackly!!
What a dufus I was to lift those heavy chunks up on the rail, even 'staging' them on the tire!
Then, having to pick up half of a heavy chunk, which is also pretty heavy.
You were very correct in your advice, BB!
I wound up 'fixing' (hopefully) the non-working detent on the return switch.
I took someone's advice on ArboristSite.com and turned around 180 degrees the cylindrical rod the handle is tied in to. The fellow who gave me the advice said the detent's spring-loaded balls had worn a groove on the it. My splitter is not old but it seemed to do the trick. Still spits some oil out the end though, but it's not air caused, for sure.
What a dufus I was to lift those heavy chunks up on the rail, even 'staging' them on the tire!
Then, having to pick up half of a heavy chunk, which is also pretty heavy.
You were very correct in your advice, BB!
I wound up 'fixing' (hopefully) the non-working detent on the return switch.
I took someone's advice on ArboristSite.com and turned around 180 degrees the cylindrical rod the handle is tied in to. The fellow who gave me the advice said the detent's spring-loaded balls had worn a groove on the it. My splitter is not old but it seemed to do the trick. Still spits some oil out the end though, but it's not air caused, for sure.
velvetfoot said:
Hey, sounds good. I've been somewhat away from hearth.com, just busy with other stuff.
I don't see myself using the splitter horizontally for anything in the near future, all my wood rounds are quite large and heavy. I don't use a bucket to sit on, I typically use a round or a half-split or so and then the last round I split would be the one I'm sitting on.. My wrists get so banged up from rolling the rounds around, could use longer gloves, gauntlets almost.
Jay
I have found, through experience (again with the dufus), that steel toed shoes really help when rolling those rounds.
For me age has been a factor-I have braces on both wrists and now an elbow!
For me age has been a factor-I have braces on both wrists and now an elbow!
So how are you liking the HF 91840 splitter now? I'm on the fence about getting one for my birthday.
I like mine.
I have split about 6-7 cords with it.
As I said, it had a couple of problems.
Harbor Freight was good about it and sent the parts (cylinder and valve), which I have yet to install.
The cylinder leakage almost went totally away after a while, and the original valve was working pretty well.
As I said, I love the engine, and it seems built well.
I brought it into the garage every time I was finished splitting, so it can't be too hard to set up to split vertically.
I have split about 6-7 cords with it.
As I said, it had a couple of problems.
Harbor Freight was good about it and sent the parts (cylinder and valve), which I have yet to install.
The cylinder leakage almost went totally away after a while, and the original valve was working pretty well.
As I said, I love the engine, and it seems built well.
I brought it into the garage every time I was finished splitting, so it can't be too hard to set up to split vertically.
I’m posting this on any of the threads I find with serious discussion of the HF splitters since I think it’s an important note that is NOT in the manual… Sorry for the many copies but I want anyone searching to find it…
I just got off the phone with Harbor Freight technical support and they gave me a very emphatic message - I was asking about the specs on the hydraulic fluid, as I could not find ANY information on what I should use in the actual manual… The tech support guy I talked with sounded like he knew what he was talking about (much better than some that I have encountered)
He gave two useful items of information - First off, even though the manual says the thing takes 2.5 gallons, it really will take more like 4.5 gallons.
More importantly, and most emphatically he said
DO NOT use DEXRON III or Mercon III ATF
The given reason being that the ATF’s have a solvent in them that does not like the nitrile seals being used in the valve - actually he wasn’t 100% clear on whether it was the seals inside the valve, or the ones at the hose/valve body junctions, but either way, he said that the use of ATF would cause the seals to rapidly get eaten, and cause leaks…
The HF recomended fluid is AW 32 Hydraulic oil - other hydraulics would work, but aren’t as suitable.
Gooserider
I just got off the phone with Harbor Freight technical support and they gave me a very emphatic message - I was asking about the specs on the hydraulic fluid, as I could not find ANY information on what I should use in the actual manual… The tech support guy I talked with sounded like he knew what he was talking about (much better than some that I have encountered)
He gave two useful items of information - First off, even though the manual says the thing takes 2.5 gallons, it really will take more like 4.5 gallons.
More importantly, and most emphatically he said
DO NOT use DEXRON III or Mercon III ATF
The given reason being that the ATF’s have a solvent in them that does not like the nitrile seals being used in the valve - actually he wasn’t 100% clear on whether it was the seals inside the valve, or the ones at the hose/valve body junctions, but either way, he said that the use of ATF would cause the seals to rapidly get eaten, and cause leaks…
The HF recomended fluid is AW 32 Hydraulic oil - other hydraulics would work, but aren’t as suitable.
Gooserider
I'm posting this as a follow-up, three years on.
Please read this thread:
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/23743/
and read it through to the end. There are reported problems with the cylinder on the 30 ton splitter.
Please read this thread:
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/23743/
and read it through to the end. There are reported problems with the cylinder on the 30 ton splitter.
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