Log Splitter

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RoosterBoy

RoosterBoy

New Member
Hearth Supporter
Jul 5, 2006
170
CT
Jason,
I can't help with the tech questions. However, I bought a 20 ton splitter with a Honda 5.5hp from Northern Tool last year for very comparable money and I love it. It starts super easy, cycles quickly and I haven't been able to stop it yet. You may want to check that one out as well. I think the brand is Nort Star. I looked at a ton of new splitters before choosing this one and think I made a good choice.
hope this was of some help.
 
I got a similar splitter at Sears 27 ton for less than a tousand on sale. I like the verticle option . Makes it much easier on the larger rounds. Only have about 4 hrs. use so far. I need to start my scrounge for 2007-08 season NOW.
 
yeah, the scrounge is already on for 2007/2008. You are behind the curve! I'm starting to see fellow scroungers snapping up warm weather tree falls now that the leaves are falling. I've picked up a half cord already myself...
 
RoosterBoy said:
hay guys i am thinking of buying this log splitter is there a way to make this a 25 ton instead of 22
http://www.mytscstore.com/detail.asp?pcID=5&paID=1037&sonID=778&productID=14590&zz=06492&x=9&y=8

also dose a bigger fluid reservoir make faster cycle times how how dose it work dose bigger hp engine mean more tonnage or dose it mean faster cycle time

thanks
how much wood can a wood splitter split if a wood splitter could split wood?
Jason
Click to expand...

the cycle speed is tied into the hydro pump and having enough hydro fruid reservior in the under 25 ton splitters the 11 gallon per minute pump will work
for faster cycle times you have to move more hydro fluid. The 16 gal per minute will cycle faster. My 16 ton electric has an 11 gmp pump.

usually the tonage relation is governed by the hydro piston the larger the piston the more tonage with mine My pump would pust up to 25 tons but originally I had 12 tons
I upsized the piston capacity swapping mine out and never looked back. I really think I could push 20 tons I also can convert to a gas motor in minutes un do the shaft coupler remove the mount bolts bolt in the gas motor conect the coupler and its a gas splitter with mine IT can be pushed to 25 tons the limit of the hydro pump and a 5.5 hp gas engine
 
Hey J , I'd get that size and not worry about it .........going from a Mual to that is like nothing else. From the size of wood i have seen in your yard you didnt have anything there that the posted splitter woulnt handle.
If your wanting to up size the tonage then buy it that way because of all the things your going to have to change out to get to the upper size.
 
hi don so are you saying that a 5.5hp with a 31qt reservoir with a 11gpm pump will cycle faster then a 6.5hp 17qt reservoir with a 11gpm is that right? assuming both have the same 4inch x24 inch travel ram.

thanks
Jason
 
Rooster,

As to your original question, I don't know why you'd want to bother going from 22 to 25 tons. I bought a used 27 ton model of what you're looking at. From everything I read before I bought a gas splitter, any of the gas splitters out there (which are all 20+ tons) will split anything you want and more. I don't think the difference would be meaningful in any way. I've split some large stuff, some knotty stuff and some really large knotty stuff and it never had a problem. I never read of anyone who had a 20+ ton gas splitter having any issues splitting anything.

As for cycle speed, I think it's just dictated by the pump speed. Just like on a tractor, the faster the hydraulic pump, the faster you can raise and lower your 3pt implements. I have a couple old Masseys and I don't think I could do a 3pt mounted splitter because they pump at about 3 gpm. Good enough for farm work, but not really good for a splitter. I would think the two splitters with the same ram specs and same pump would cycle at the same speed. I am curious though what the difference in reservoir size does then -- allow cooler operation? Avoid issues with operation if levels are low? I don't know.
 
The tonnage of a splitter is determined by the bore size of the cylinder, 4" bore =20 ton , 4 1/2" bore = 24 ton , 5" bore = 30 ton. The 2 - stage pumps used on splitters produce a maximum 3000 PSI. The GPM of the pump is usually rated at 3600 RPM's max. with free flow , as pressure increases GPM will drop to about 1/4 the stated capacity at 500 PSI.
It requires approximately 2 HP for each GPM at 3000 PSI. Example , a 16GPM 2-stage pump will push 16 GPM to 500 psi then it will switch to the second stage which will push 4 GPM from 500 to 3000 psi requiring a 8 Hp motor.
Most log splitter control valves have a built-in relief that only allows a maximum 2750 psi.
 
My electric has a 1.5hp (Marathon )110 volt motor that can be wired to 220 and produce 2hp I changed the 3' hydro cylinder to 3.5" to achieve 16 tons

my motor turns around 1850 rpms and I have an ll gpm pump Currently my detent valve is set to 2250 PSI. Would a 4" piston produce 20 tons in 115 volts
or do I need to change to 220 volts can I adjust my detent valve for more pressure say to 2750 and would that aid to produce more power
 
This should help a little bit:

(broken link removed to http://www.surpluscenter.com/Hydraulic.htm)

tonnage is in perspective to bore size in ratio to hydraulic pressure. The larger resivoir will aid in cooling and cooling only. To increase cycle times you have to increase the flow, larger pump. Yes the larger pump does require more power, under load, but will flow fine without load, where the two stage pump comes in. You have the faster cycle times, but still have enough power to split under a heavy load.
 
elkimmeg said:
My electric has a 1.5hp (Marathon )110 volt motor that can be wired to 220 and produce 2hp I changed the 3' hydro cylinder to 3.5" to achieve 16 tons

my motor turns around 1850 rpms and I have an ll gpm pump Currently my detent valve is set to 2250 PSI. Would a 4" piston produce 20 tons in 115 volts
or do I need to change to 220 volts can I adjust my detent valve for more pressure say to 2750 and would that aid to produce more power
Click to expand...

A 4" piston will increase overall pressure as compared to your 3.5" Ram. Increasing your relief settings on your valve will ALSO increase overall pressure on either Ram. But you may find that if you increase your relief pressure you may have to go to your 220V @ 2hp setting for the motor to handle it (at least to handle it well).

Keep in mind that you are still dealing with the same SIZE of pump (11gpm). Increasing valve pressure will create more pressure. Increasing ram size will also create more pressure, BUT will slow down your cycle time.
 
Rooster

I have that splitter except mine has the 5.5 briggs. Same model/build. It works very well and I have split wet elm over 2' across with it. I do more damage to myself trying to position big cuts under it than has been done to it by its own use.

I have had one major problem with it though. One day in the garage I noticed fluid leaking from it. I looked aorund and did not see the leak at first but after more inspection I found the tank/housing was cracked where the engine mount/table was welded to the tank.

The original design was just welded to the tank no supports. I called manufacturuer of it and they sent out a complete tank assembly and I replaced it and no problems since. The old one was not guessetted so that is why the crack I was told.

It seems to me I have split more wood with it than it was ever intended it is is working great.

I purchased mine from that store you listed.
 
I bought the same splitter from Lowes. 5.5 hp Honda Troy bilt. After I split for a few hours it starts pushinghydrolic fluid out of the plug on top of the reserviour. Is this common or do I have a problem?
 
Dave,

You shouldn't loose fluid. I can think of two things that might be happening. If the reservoir is over full, the heat generated by using the splitter for a couple of hours may cause the fluid to expand, take up more volume and leak out the plug. The other thing would be something (such as old hydraulic fluid, the wrong type of fluid, depleted additives package in the fluid, or a restricted inlet screen) which would cause the fluid to foam up. As it foams, the volume grows as well, so it could leak out the plug.

Make sure you are in compliance with the manufacturers "maximum fill" recommendations. If it still overflows, stop and look at the fluid...see if it has a foamy or frothy appearance.

Corey
 
Thanks I will lookat these things. I just bought the fluid. It also did this the very first time I cranked it upamd had not even split any wood at all.
 
Big Dave said:
Thanks I will lookat these things. I just bought the fluid. It also did this the very first time I cranked it upamd had not even split any wood at all.
Click to expand...
Overfilled is the likely answer, but don't overlook another potentially obvious answer -- the reservoir facing downhill. I did that once when sideways on a small slope and it was equivalent of being overfilled.
 
MrGriz said:
Jason,
I can't help with the tech questions. However, I bought a 20 ton splitter with a Honda 5.5hp from Northern Tool last year for very comparable money and I love it. It starts super easy, cycles quickly and I haven't been able to stop it yet. You may want to check that one out as well. I think the brand is Nort Star. I looked at a ton of new splitters before choosing this one and think I made a good choice.
hope this was of some help.
Click to expand...


Do you have the four-way splitting wedge?... Thinking about buying one of those babies myself next year...
 
Do you have the four-way splitting wedge?... Thinking about buying one of those babies myself next year…
Click to expand...

I do not have the four-way wedge. I have never used a splitter with a four way, but I can't imagine that it would work very well with large rounds. I like being able to split large rounds in half and then work my way across the half. I'm not sure I could do that with the four way. I would highly recommend this splitter. I looked at so many before selecting this one and think it was a good move.
 
The Harbor Freight 30 ton unit I ordered is now pushed back to 12/1.
I could be getting cold feet anyway.
What is interesting about the unit sold at lowes is that is seems the I beam is not as long since the hydraulic cylinder is cantelievered (sp?).
 
Mr. Foot

Have you actually seen the HoboFright unit? I hate to buy something this pricey sight unseen. The price is good ($999) for a 30 on, but only if it works!

Thanks
 
Mr. Road,
No I haven't. I went out tonight to see all the splitters I could and came up with some info that might or might not be useful.
I went to Home Depot, Harbor Freight, Tractor Supply, and Lowes. I didn't take notes and my memory isn't that great. HF had the 22 ton on display, Lowes had the 5.5 Honda 27 honda-powered 5.5hp TroyBilt (MTD?) on display for $1329, HD had a YardMachines 25 Ton 6hp B&S powered Yard Machines (MTD?), Tractor Supply had a 22Ton Huskee (Speco?) for $999, and HF had a 22 ton 6hp B&S powered Chicago (house brand) for $949 (for which after a little talking was going to throw in a 2year warranty ("worth" $139), so they have some leeway at the retail stores.

All are vertical/horizontal.
I think the MTD's had a cast iron wedge (quite large) that wrapped (as I recall) the I beam - not sure of the advantage there.
The MTD's had a short I beam with a reinforcing plate tack welded on top - the cylinder is catelievered and the unit takes up just as much floor space vertical as horizontal-the HF unit took up less space than all when stored vertically.
The HF and the Huskee had full length I beams.
The Huskee's wedge was captured by rails attached to the I beam.
The HP's wedge was captured by plates bolted to the wedge assembly.
- not sure of advantage of any
All units except HF had the reservoir as part of the wheels.
The HF unit's reservoir seemed to be below the I-beam when horizontal.
The MTD's had vertical shaft motors, the HF had horizontal, not sure of Huskee
The HF on display had some kind of coupling, I understand the 30 has a chain drive of some sort (for gearing?) - not sure about advantages/disadvantages
I think the best ergonomics was the MTD's (Lowes...HD was pretty dark outside) - the motor was opposite operating side-no reaching required.
Though the HF unit was displayed vertically, it appears that a reach is required over the engine to get at the control rod.
I took at look at the 9hp Robin engine mounted on some generators at HP - they are overhead cam'ed, with an inclined cylinder.
I don't think hydraulic fluid or oil is included with the HF units as they are with others - could mean that one could fill with high quality syn. fluids to start
The I beam on the HF unit is quite substantial.
They have the all-terrain trailer dolley (pneumatic tires) on sale at HF for $40 'til December some time. I tried lifting the end of the horizontally-positioned Huskee unit and must say it was not too light. With the full-length I-beam it might be a good lift to go from horizontal to vertical (but there might have been more reinforcement and additional plates on the cantelievered model that made it heavy too).


That is what stuck in my head after my perusal of what was easily visited around here. It's all a trade off. I still think the HF 30 Ton unit at $999 plus $60 for truck delivery is a good deal.
 
I realize it's a crapshoot. If I recall those guys were talking somewhat abstractly about the HF unit since no one actually owned one. I talked to HF technical support about the weight and the cyl. diameter. They told me the actual weight is 598 (not sure if that is shipping weight though!), and that they'd get back to me on the cyl. diameter. As I recall from looking at the manual at work (I have a real slow dial up connection at home), I am optimistic about the 5" from looking at the hydraulic diagrams in the back and converting to inches.
 
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