Liner, tee and wall pass through in masonry chimney.

[Jgreg1989]

Hey all!

Newbie here and having trouble finding some answers to a few question. Was hoping to come to a knowledgeable group to get this install done safely.

I attached a few photos for reference and can attach any number more if needed.
I want to line this masonry chimney to install a wood stove in my unfinished basement which will never be finished. I have the liner, tee and rain cap etc. I am having a bit of trouble finding what parts I need to transition into this fire clay insert safely.

Question 1, the tee is too short to come out of the wall in these photos. How do I safely extend the tee? Can that be done? Should the tee snout stick out of the wall or terminate at the wall?

Question 2, how do I transition the tee to the stove? Is there an adaptor I need or will the stove pipe attach to the tee?

Question 3, since this is a clay lined masonry chimney do I need to insulate the double ply liner I am installing?

Clearance from this wall pass through and the door frame to the left is kind of short so I was looking for some advice on how to do this properly.

Thanks in advance for any help.

 

[begreen]

Tee snouts come in different lengths. See if a longer one is available. The thimble looks like it's exactly 6". Will a 6" snout pass through it? Code for insulation requirements depend on clearances. An interior chimney has to have at least 2" clearance from any combustibles and an exterior one needs 1" clearance. If the liner has not been purchase, avoid 2 ply liners. They can delaminate and can fish mouth when cleaning.

 

[kborndale]

Majority of exterior chimneys (I'd say like 90%) do not meet code so I would expect to have to insulate it. Doing so will also give you a better draft and reduce creosote.

 

[stoveliker]

Regarding the clearance to the door: use double wall stove pipe there - then one only needs 6" clearance to wall combustibles.

Side remark: installing a heat source in an unfinished (or better uninsulated) basement will result in about 30% of the heat produced there being lost to the outside, presumably mother earth.

So, if you can, I'd still insulate it even if you don't finish it.

 

[Jgreg1989]

Tee snouts come in different lengths. See if a longer one is available. The thimble looks like it's exactly 6". Will a 6" snout pass through it? Code for insulation requirements depend on clearances. An interior chimney has to have at least 2" clearance from any combustibles and an exterior one needs 1" clearance. If the liner has not been purchase, avoid 2 ply liners. They can delaminate and can fish mouth when cleaning.

It is 6.25 inches

Regarding the clearance to the door: use double wall stove pipe there - then one only needs 6" clearance to wall combustibles.

Side remark: installing a heat source in an unfinished (or better uninsulated) basement will result in about 30% of the heat produced there being lost to the outside, presumably mother earth.

So, if you can, I'd still insulate it even if you don't finish it.

Basement is insulated already with vents to bring the heat upstairs so that should be fine. I will use double wall pipe, however through the clay pipe in the middle, is it ok with just the tee snout through the clay meeting double wall pipe?

 

[Jgreg1989]

Tee snouts come in different lengths. See if a longer one is available. The thimble looks like it's exactly 6". Will a 6" snout pass through it? Code for insulation requirements depend on clearances. An interior chimney has to have at least 2" clearance from any combustibles and an exterior one needs 1" clearance. If the liner has not been purchase, avoid 2 ply liners. They can delaminate and can fish mouth when cleaning.

Tee snout came with a liner kit, is it possible to extend the pipe or do I need to get a longer snout as my only option?

 

[Jgreg1989]

Majority of exterior chimneys (I'd say like 90%) do not meet code so I would expect to have to insulate it. Doing so will also give you a better draft and reduce creosote.

Can you or anyone else recommend a reputable, reasonable priced company who sells the insulation? I have a 6”x25 foot liner.

 

[bholler]

Can you or anyone else recommend a reputable, reasonable priced company who sells the insulation? I have a 6”x25 foot liner.

It should be the insulation kit sold by the manufacturer of your liner.

 

[bholler]

Tee snout came with a liner kit, is it possible to extend the pipe or do I need to get a longer snout as my only option?

Yes it can be extended with stainless pipe riveted on

 

[bholler]

Hey all!

Newbie here and having trouble finding some answers to a few question. Was hoping to come to a knowledgeable group to get this install done safely.

I attached a few photos for reference and can attach any number more if needed.
I want to line this masonry chimney to install a wood stove in my unfinished basement which will never be finished. I have the liner, tee and rain cap etc. I am having a bit of trouble finding what parts I need to transition into this fire clay insert safely.

Question 1, the tee is too short to come out of the wall in these photos. How do I safely extend the tee? Can that be done? Should the tee snout stick out of the wall or terminate at the wall?

Question 2, how do I transition the tee to the stove? Is there an adaptor I need or will the stove pipe attach to the tee?

Question 3, since this is a clay lined masonry chimney do I need to insulate the double ply liner I am installing?

Clearance from this wall pass through and the door frame to the left is kind of short so I was looking for some advice on how to do this properly.

Thanks in advance for any help.

View attachment 327170 View attachment 327171 View attachment 327172

Does that door frame have wood against the block going outside with only 8" of masonry between the inside of the crock and that wood?

 

[Jgreg1989]

Majority of exterior chimneys (I'd say like 90%) do not meet code so I would expect to have to insulate it. Doing so will also give you a better draft and reduce creosote.

Is

Does that door frame have wood against the block going outside with only 8" of masonry between the inside of the crock and that wood?

It Is a wooden frame, yes 8” of masonry between. The door does not lead outside, it leads to a bomb shelter. With a dirt floor

 

[Jgreg1989]

It should be the insulation kit sold by the manufacturer of your liner.

It should be the insulation kit sold by the manufacturer of your liner.

The manufacture (chim cap corp) does not list an insulation kit in their website. Frustrating, should I return and buy a different kit or can I use a universal insulation kit?

 

[bholler]

Is

It Is a wooden frame, yes 8” of masonry between. The door does not lead outside, it leads to a bomb shelter. With a dirt floor

Ok well you need 12" of masonry in that area or an insulated thimble.

 

[bholler]

The manufacture (chim cap corp) does not list an insulation kit in their website. Frustrating, should I return and buy a different kit or can I use a universal insulation kit?

Technically to meet the ul listing and code it has to be insulated with the kit it was tested with. But in reality any listed insulation kit should be fine.

 

[moresnow]

The door does not lead outside, it leads to a bomb shelter. With a dirt floor

Cold war era construction perhaps. Can't recall a "bomb shelter" being mentioned here in my recent memory. Interesting.

 

[Jgreg1989]

Ok well you need 12" of masonry in that area or an insulated thimble.

Could you possibly provide a link of photo of the kind of insulated thimble that will work for this application in conjunction with the tee? Everything I find online is for through the wall installation.

 

[bholler]

Could you possibly provide a link of photo of the kind of insulated thimble that will work for this application in conjunction with the tee? Everything I find online is for through the wall installation.

You are going through a wall it's just a masonry one. You would need to open up the masonry wall to install it

 

[Jgreg1989]

You are going through a wall it's just a masonry one. You would need to open up the masonry wall to install it

Last question on this, I swear. That door and frame is not structural only decorative. If I remove the door all that’s left there is masonry. In that case would I be ok with a 2 part tee going through the wall connecting to normal stovepipe to the stove?

 

[Jgreg1989]

Cold war era construction perhaps. Can't recall a "bomb shelter" being mentioned here in my recent memory. Interesting.

1950 build on the house. Bomb shelter was added later though I don’t know exactly when. I would not actually trust it to survive a bomb though!

 

[bholler]

Last question on this, I swear. That door and frame is not structural only decorative. If I remove the door all that’s left there is masonry. In that case would I be ok with a 2 part tee going through the wall connecting to normal stovepipe to the stove?

Yes that would be fine