Once I removed the magnet the temp went down. Also when I put the magnet on correctly the temp continued to go down and is now working correctly.The fact that it still read 1100 when it was out of the stove points to something else going on besides a magnet not holding it in position on the stove..unless this isn't the bi-metallic strip type of meter that I'm familiar with. Maybe that's why they're sending a new one?
I have taken down enough masonry to know many times it is not easy. Yes if it is in need of extensive repair or you are in an area with lots of seismic activity it probably makes sense. But for most people with a decent masonry structure it is cheaper and easier to simply install an insulated liner. And they work just as well.Glad you knocked down the old masonry chimney. It’s really easy and people suffer with them even though the pipes work better because they think demo is hard.
I replaced a cracked masonry fireplace with a pipe and don’t regret it.
The chimney was too far gone for a liner.I have taken down enough masonry to know many times it is not easy. Yes if it is in need of extensive repair or you are in an area with lots of seismic activity it probably makes sense. But for most people with a decent masonry structure it is cheaper and easier to simply install an insulated liner. And they work just as well.
OK, I hadn't thought it through..the magnet facing the spring was exerting pull on the spring. Duh...Once I removed the magnet the temp went down. Also when I put the magnet on correctly the temp continued to go down and is now working correctly.
And why trade the aesthetics of a masonry fireplace for a black pipe, if you don't have to?I have taken down enough masonry to know many times it is not easy. Yes if it is in need of extensive repair or you are in an area with lots of seismic activity it probably makes sense. But for most people with a decent masonry structure it is cheaper and easier to simply install an insulated liner. And they work just as well.
Yes that absolutely happens I wasn't referring to your chimney really. Just addressing the statement about taking down a masonry chimney being easy and that prefab pipe is much better. Sorry for the thread wander.The chimney was to far gone for a liner.
No worries.Yes that absolutely happens I wasn't referring to your chimney really. Just addressing the statement about testing down a masonry chimney being easy and that prefab pipe is much better. Sorry for the thread wander.
Many of the chimneys in question aren't fireplaces either. But I agree I prefer the aesthetics of a nice masonry chimney.OK, I hadn't thought it through..the magnet facing the spring was exerting pull on the spring. Duh...
And why trade the aesthetics of a masonry fireplace for a black pipe, if you don't have to?
That said, I'm in a 'quake zone so I should probably think about what precautions I could take..
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Yeah, I guess the smaller they are, the more easily they can become unstable, and then would need to be addressed.Many of the chimneys in question aren't fireplaces either.
Not at allYeah, I guess the smaller they are, the more easily they can become unstable, and then would need to be addressed.
We are experiencing the same thing. With the primary air on low 5-6 hours is all it’ll do. 500 is about as low as the stovetop will get. I think something is possibly wrong with it? I have got a chance to tear into it.Hi Amigo, that is a good burn time. I just purchased the F500 V3 about 5 days ago and can't get over a 6 hr burn time on lowest setting. If I pack the box full of 20 inch maple at night 8 hours later there is not enough coals to start a fire, which is a PITA having to start a fire 1 to 2 times a day. I have the 6 inch pipe going into an 8 inch insulated with a total of about 18 feet, I"m thinking I might have too much draft.
Yes, It is equal in both directions it goes all the way to the + and back to the - on mine. My stove top on low will be 400ish according to the Rutland. This is with a nice slow bluish flame from the secondary’s and a light red glow from the cat.Amigo, does your air control lever move equally as far to the left as it does to the right from center?
Ours never has lazy flames. The air control lever doesn’t go as far to the left as it does to the right. I think I know what the problem is... I’ll take it apart tomorrow and see what’s up with it.Yes, It is equal in both directions it goes all the way to the + and back to the - on mine. My stove top on low will be 400ish according to the Rutland. This is with a nice slow bluish flame from the secondary’s and a light red glow from the cat.
Wow, that looks great. Where is the cat located in your stove?Yes, It is equal in both directions it goes all the way to the + and back to the - on mine. My stove top on low will be 400ish according to the Rutland. This is with a nice slow bluish flame from the secondary’s and a light red glow from the cat.
Right above the door.Wow, that looks great. Where is the cat located in your stove?
Wow, it must contribute quite a bit of heat and can probably allow the stove to be run lower if anything. The cat itself must act like a baffle which would add more turbulence and allow a greater chance of gasification Ignition as well. Seems like a home run for Jotul.Right above the door.
Wellll maybe. The stove has no bypass so everything goes through the cat all the time. No one has been successful in the past without a bypass. Only time will tell.Wow, it must contribute quite a bit of heat and can probably allow the stove to be run lower if anything. The cat itself must act like a baffle which would add more turbulence and allow a greater chance of gasification Ignition as well. Seems like a home run for Jotul.
I’m all for the addition of the catalyst, and am hopeful it holds up. It’s huge, nearly the entire width of the stove. If it fails, it will be very costly.Wow, it must contribute quite a bit of heat and can probably allow the stove to be run lower if anything. The cat itself must act like a baffle which would add more turbulence and allow a greater chance of gasification Ignition as well. Seems like a home run for Jotul.
the warranty states 20 years for the cat. I'm not sure about cost replacement as I haven't asked my dealer.What is the warranty on the cat? What is the cost of replacement?
Excellent. According to the EPA testing, they were able to run the stove as low as 14,001 BTUs and Max at 38,804 BTUs. Longest burn time was 410 minutes on ~19# of fuel (doug fir).the warranty states 20 years for the cat. i'm not sure about cost replacement as I haven't asked my dealer.
Wow, that's a great burn from doug fir crib wood. 19 lbs even seems like a small load for a larger stove like this one. Perhaps Jotul has finally gotten their cat stoves to work well!Excellent. According to the EPA testing, they were able to run the stove as low as 14,001 BTUs and Max at 38,804 BTUs. Longest burn time was 410 minutes on ~19# of fuel (doug fir).
Interesting to note that some of the test fuel (dimensional lumber) had a moisture content as high as 25%.
I can say after 2 weeks I love mine. It has burned everything I have thrown at it. I'm at the part of my wood shed with the stuff that was on the bottom of the pile for a couple of months. I mix it with the other wood and it goes up just fine.Wow, that's a great burn from doug fir crib wood. 19 lbs even seems like a small load for a larger stove like this one. Perhaps Jotul has finally gotten their cat stoves to work well!
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