Jotul F500 not getting air

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v8unleashed

New Member
Jan 27, 2019
7
Va
I'm at a loss. I have a Jotul F500, installed a couple weeks ago, and a brand new Class A chimney. Everything been working great until the last couple days.

Recently, though, the stove has not been getting enough air into the firebox. I opened the intake cover, and the sliding plate is on its track, and perfectly clean (not clogged). The stove gets air and the fire roars when I open the ash drawer door, so I don't suspect anything is wrong with the chimney.

Does anyone have any ideas?
 
Check your cap for build up, yes it can clog fast when using wood with a moisture content greater then 20%
 
6DT-VC

I've read the threads about buildup on the screen. Why does it burn great when the ash door is open?

The wood has been seasoning almost 2 years.
 
If it is the cap, you're prob not completely plugged. And even if the wood is good you can still over do it chasing burn times.
 
Time to check the chimney and cap . . . most likely culprit. If you had been burning for awhile I might also suggest checking for a build up of fly ash above the baffle blanket, but I doubt there would be that much fly ash there with just a few weeks of burning. If you swept or had a sweep do your chimney I might suggest checking that the baffle blanket wasn't bunched up and blocking the exhaust, but it doesn't sound like this is the case. It's pretty rare to hear about an issue with the incoming air.

P.S. You probably know, but opening the ash pan door to get the fire going is a bad habit as it can damage the stove. I suspect you did this as a test and do not do it regularly though.
 
6DT-VC

I've read the threads about buildup on the screen. Why does it burn great when the ash door is open?

The wood has been seasoning almost 2 years.
As Jake said do not ever open the ash pan while burning. Jotuls are pretty bullet proof that is about the only thing that will kill them. And it has destroyed many.
 
As Jake said do not ever open the ash pan while burning. Jotuls are pretty bullet proof that is about the only thing that will kill them. And it has destroyed many.
Yep, number 1 killer of cast iron stoves.
Being a new install, I’m seriously suspect of the wood. It’s almost always the problem. Seasoned 2 years meaning cut, split, and stacked for 2 years?
 
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Oslo maniac here. You have moist wood.
Shu shu, Grasshopper. You must learn patience.
Patience needed to get wood dry.

Shu Shu. Means "patience" in Japanese.
 
This stove and chimney are 9 days old. I seriously doubt I've burned enough for there to be sufficient buildup to clog the cap.

I popped the bottom plug off the chimney. A little bit of soot, but nothing indicative of any buildup. I did not yet climb onto the roof, but I took some pics of the chimey cap through my spotting scope. Looks like when they installed it, they removed the mesh spark arrestor. Certainly no buildup I can see. I also stuck my hand up on the insulation blanket at the top of the stove, I don't feel anything. Going to borrow a buddy's borescope tomorrow, just to be sure.

I have been feeding wood stoves and cutting wood here and there for almost 20 years. That certainly doesn't make me an expert, but my wood is not wet, and is not the problem. I've been burning poplar and oak that I felled, bucked, split, and stacked, with a tarp over the top but not the sides, in March of 2017. However, I have ordered a moisture tester to quell the condescension.

If the general consensus is correct, that the chimney cap is clogged, then there would be little or no draft through the chimney, period. So why does the stove fire up like a furnace when I open the front door or ash drawer door? That tells me the chimney is flowing fine.
 

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Condescension? Everyome is just giving you some of the most common problems that we have seen or experienced firsthand.
 
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Sounds like a fuel issue if the stove and chimney are in good shape.
 
Did the draft slow down coincide with warmer.temps? Bow tall is the chimney, what floor is it on and are there any appliances competing for draft (exhaust fans etc)?
 
Did the draft slow down coincide with warmer.temps? Bow tall is the chimney, what floor is it on and are there any appliances competing for draft (exhaust fans etc)?

That's interesting. It certainly was frigid cold when it was installed. It's been warmer, I will have to try a burn a couple nights from now when we're supposed to have single digit temps, to see if it does better.

Chimney is about 25 feet, give or take. It's on the main floor, basement below, upper floor above. Nothing competing for draft that I know of. Certainly nothing different between when it was running great and now, when it's not.
 
I have been feeding wood stoves and cutting wood here and there for almost 20 years. That certainly doesn't make me an expert, but my wood is not wet, and is not the problem. I've been burning poplar and oak that I felled, bucked, split, and stacked, with a tarp over the top but not the sides, in March of 2017. However, I have ordered a moisture tester to quell the condescension.
Wood that was felled cut and split in 2017 isn’t very well seasoned at all. Especially the oak.
I’ve had a bunch of Jotuls, including 2 Oslo’s, I found them to be the most finicky about under seasoned wood than almost any other stoves I’ve had. I also felt at times that it would only burn with the door cracked and a quick blast through the ashpan door. I got my wood situation under control and the problem was solved. You may not want to hear that but it’s the truth 90% of the time. So many people shut down the idea that the wood is on the wet side and look for other problems that simply don’t exist. We see it here routinely from new stove owners, especially ones going from an old smoke dragon to a modern EPA stove.
 
That's interesting. It certainly was frigid cold when it was installed. It's been warmer, I will have to try a burn a couple nights from now when we're supposed to have single digit temps, to see if it does better.

Chimney is about 25 feet, give or take. It's on the main floor, basement below, upper floor above. Nothing competing for draft that I know of. Certainly nothing different between when it was running great and now, when it's not.

May be that as you got deeper into your wood pile you started getting to the less exposed, less dry wood and are seeing the results. Also possible that with a second floor overhead that the draft can suffer if you have a leaky attic and the house is replacing a lot of air. Could be it's a little bit of both. I know I had a similar problem my first year and sometimes still have to overcome stack-effect at startup. Just throwing out ideas.
 
Condescension? We are trying to give you some good advice. You have an arrogant attitude.
If you don't want helpful advice, don't ask for it.
 
I think he didn't like hearing his firewood is I seasoned. When I'm out and about I like to chat with folks and if someone has a wood stove we end up talking about it. This is my first winter here so it comes up a lot. I don't talk to people about seasoned firewood, people don't like it if you offer advice on wood stove operation. They all think because they've been doing it for their whole lives, it's correct and the only way. Folks don't want to hear that they've been doing something wrong their whole life.
 
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Grab some pallet wood and burn that, see if it makes a difference. Also make sure the bottom cap on your tee is fully in and shut.
 
I think he didn't like hearing his firewood is I seasoned. When I'm out and about I like to chat with folks and if someone has a wood stove we end up talking about it. This is my first winter here so it comes up a lot. I don't talk to people about seasoned firewood, people don't like it if you offer advice on wood stove operation. They all think because they've been doing it for their whole lives, it's correct and the only way. Folks don't want to hear that they've been doing something wrong their whole life.
We say it’s similar to saying their kids are ugly. People do get offended, we have that conversation with people almost everyday. It needs to be said, if it is their problem.
 
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We say it’s similar to saying their kids are ugly. People do get offended, we have that conversation with people almost everyday. It needs to be said, if it is their problem.

Yes, I agree, but it's easier if you make them think it's their idea to try a different fuel, like pallet wood or compressed wood bricks. You can't come out up front and say someone is wrong, they don't want to hear it. If it's a guy I would try and describe it like a car. Ferraris and Corvettes need premium fuel because they are modern super cars. An EPA stove needs premium fuel, it's like a modern super car compared to an old stove. The old stoves are like a 70's carbed fox Mustang, it will run on the cheapest gas, but a new super car needs the highest quality fuel.
 
Well, it looks like you all are right that it's the wood causing issues, but it's certainly not because the wood is "wet." The moisture of the poplar I've been burning is testing at 13-15%. The oak is 19-22%. If that's how these finnicky new EPA stoves operate, then I guess that's just the way it is. The stove is currently roaring away on 100% poplar. Anyway, I appreciate all the help.
 
Well, it looks like you all are right that it's the wood causing issues, but it's certainly not because the wood is "wet." The moisture of the poplar I've been burning is testing at 13-15%. The oak is 19-22%. If that's how these finnicky new EPA stoves operate, then I guess that's just the way it is. The stove is currently roaring away on 100% poplar. Anyway, I appreciate all the help.
The poplar should be fine at that content. That’s a room temperature piece that was just split?