Jotul F400 gasket problem

[gmtrux]

I have a Jotul F400 that has had a burning hotter than normal issue this season after changing the top and bottom gaskets last month. Even with the air control lever in the full closed position the stove would race on some days. The weather has moderated and I did a dollar bill test yesterday. It showed that the gasket failed for a couple of inches along the bottom of the top door and top of the bottom door. Asked the dealer how this could happen and he has never heard of this before. Could I have installed the gaskets incorrectly?
Does anyone know how to remedy this situation before the cold weather returns?

 

[EbS-P]

Do a dollar bill test of the glass door and the ash pan door.

Take out the pan, insert a bright flashlight and turnoff all lights and look for leaks. I had a big one near the hinge. I fixed it with flat stove gasket just hung over the door. I also had a leak where the side but plates meet the stove (vertical seam). I just packed some ash in there.

You did not say how old the stove is and how much you burn. It’s possible it due for a complete rebuild.

 

[begreen]

Were the replacement gaskets OEM or generic (like Rutland)? They should be OEM.

It could be the ashpan is not sealing well if the gasket is leaking there. Also, check behind the ash pan to see if there is compacted ash building up at the rear of its housing. If so, it will need to be scraped out. Personally, I found that our F400 ran a lot better by letting the ashpan fill up completely to the bottom of the grate. It might be worth trying that.

 

[gmtrux]

Thanks for the prompt responses to my post. I followed your recommendations and this is what I found:
1. The dollar bill test failed on both doors primarily along sections on the top.
The new gasket was OEM and not third party. As I see it either the new gasket was defective or I installed it incorrectly.
2. I removed the pan last night, inserted a bright light, and looked for leaks. None.
Did the same for the top. No light leaks.
3. The stove is 5 years old and I burn about 2 cords of seasoned wood every year.
4. I checked and there is no buildup of ash behind the pan. I’m careful to keep
that area clean. I will let the pan fill up with ash before emptying.
Thanks for any help.

 

[begreen]

Thanks for the detailed, concise summary. Leaks at the ashpan door are hard to spot sometimes.

What adhesive was used to attach the door gasket? Does the gasket feel harder at the top of the door as opposed to soft and pliable?

 

[gmtrux]

The adhesive is Rutland’s stove gasket cement which the dealer sold me when the gasket was purchased. I checked the gasket around both doors and it appears pliable and not hard. It also was attached and not loose in any way. One thing I noticed on an unused piece of gasket is that it appears to be oval rather than round. Not sure if that matters. When I installed it I put the narrow side
in the channel.

 

[begreen]

It's possible that the gasket is not OEM if it is like one of the local Jotul/PE stove shops. They just had large spools that they cut from and what they sold was definitely not OEM for our stove in spite of them being a dealer.

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[gmtrux]

I tried something that hopefully would solve the gasket problem. An associate at Tractor Supply suggested that I scrunch the gasket while installing. Did this and
it improved the situation somewhat but the dollar bill test failed on the left side above the handle. I wonder if the glass door has somehow got out of spec.

 

[begreen]

Pinching the gasket can help fluff it up a bit. Is the bill coming out with no tension at all on it, or is there a little tension? A little tension is still ok. No tension is not.
Also, inspect the glass gasket and make sure that at least one half of its gasket is between the stove door frame and the glass.

 

[EbS-P]

I tried something that hopefully would solve the gasket problem. An associate at Tractor Supply suggested that I scrunch the gasket while installing. Did this and
it improved the situation somewhat but the dollar bill test failed on the left side above the handle. I wonder if the glass door has somehow got out of spec.

Are the hinge holes looking nice and round? I stuck a metal washer between the frame and the door to a raise the door up a little.

 

[gmtrux]

I redid the dollar bill test again and the area in question has resistance although not as much as the other 3/4 of the door. So I guess what I have is satisfactory.
Next the bottom door. It appears there’s no way to remove the door. Right?
The glass gasket appears ok. What should I see to indicate that it needs replacing?
The hinge holes appear ok. What size washer are you using?

 

[EbS-P]

I redid the dollar bill test again and the area in question has resistance although not as much as the other 3/4 of the door. So I guess what I have is satisfactory.
Next the bottom door. It appears there’s no way to remove the door. Right?
The glass gasket appears ok. What should I see to indicate that it needs replacing?
The hinge holes appear ok. What size washer are you using?

No way to remove ash pan door. Just check the screws are snug holding glass in. I don’t have any idea about the size. My reasons was to try and move the door up as it was compressing the very top of the gasket and nowhere near the middle of it. They were just in my bin of extras.

You don’t need much resistance 0.05 inches water column is very small.