Went to the local dealer this morning. Really liked the Jonsered 2253. $475 before tax seem like a good deal to you guys? 20in bar
Jonsered cs2250cs or echo cs-590-20?
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The 2252 is the same saw as the Husqvarna 545, so I'd determine if I prefer Husqvarna's angled front handle or the straight across Jonsered handle. Other than that, either one would be a good choice for a 50cc saw.
20" will give you reach, but it won't do as well buried in hardwoods. I recommend 16 or 18". My personal preference is 16" for balance, agility, and keeping things light on a 50cc saw.
20" will give you reach, but it won't do as well buried in hardwoods. I recommend 16 or 18". My personal preference is 16" for balance, agility, and keeping things light on a 50cc saw.
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Sadly, they didn't have a 545 on hand to check out. Pretty much the same price for it...
2253 ?? Awesome price it's the same as the husky 550xp.
The 2252 = 545 and both are lower HP and lower cost but exact same build and pro construction.
Again if it's the 2253 for $475 it's a sweet deal. That's what I paid for the 1/2 hp less 2252
2253 / 550xp is a very powerful 50cc saw.
I've never handled the Husky version in the 50cc all that much other than a few test cuts. But I have in the 70cc . In my opinion the angled bar is nicer for limbing and over head cutting. But you get used to either.
For what it's worth I know you were looking at the Dolmar 5105, which will cut equally fast, and is just as well built,
but.....it doesn't have auto tune, is nowhere close to as nimble feeling, and I'm thinking it still has a catalytic muffler which will put off a lot of heat especially noticeable in warm cutting conditions. Also your Jonsered dealer is close by......seems like the Jred is a solid choice for you
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They only had a couple Husky models on the floor, mostly bigger pro models. The guys at the shop didn't have much good to say about the 455's ("Poulan saws, we fix then a lot"). Might call and ask about the 550xp out of curiosity, but I think I've found my saw...
That's the cash discount (5%) price, which I'm fine with. Basically trying to decide whether to go get it this afternoon or wait a week till after my vacation....
The 2253 has the higher speed for limbing too, doesn't it?
That's the cash discount (5%) price, which I'm fine with. Basically trying to decide whether to go get it this afternoon or wait a week till after my vacation....
The 2253 has the higher speed for limbing too, doesn't it?
It's a little faster and higher output than the 2252. At $475 for new you are getting a sweet deal.
Think of this a new Stihl 261 is roughly $600. It's a nice 50cc saw but power is about identical to the 2253/550xp. And it has a plastic handle to boot ! And it's physically bigger and does not balance as well when cutting in think brush and dense woods. I've used a 261 for a few hours of cutting and there Is no way I'd trade one for my 2252/2253.
Awesome saw you will be happy
It will run a 20 inch no problem as long as it's .325 pitch. If you want regular 3/8 pitch I'd stay 18 inch or even better 16 inch. Your dealer should be willing to swap bar and chain ( and sprocket if changing pitch) for whatever you want since they are technically sold as power head only .
The dealer made the comparison to the Stihl as well.
I think my only thought might be to handle a husky saw on site to get an idea of the ergonomics, but otherwise...
Pretty sure it's a .325 saw, forgot to ask...
My personal preference is .325 on a 50cc saw. Takes less power to turn the chain so more power in the cut
I could be wrong but those saws were selling for around $600 when they 1st came out.
Makes me feel like I paid too much for my 2252 since I paid roughly $475. Oh well it is what it is as they say.
Also with auto tune it takes the saw roughly 1 to 3 minutes to adjust to the weather and temperature outside etc, so it may run less than ideal for that first couple of minutes. Then it sorts itself out. Completely normal and no reason to question it .
Post a picture when you get it
Will do!
I called back about the 550xp, looks like that one is closer to six hundred before cash discount.
At my tractor supply they have a Jred 2250 on sale for 350. Sale probably over tomorrow. I don't know the difference between a 2250,2252 and a53.
I have a 2240and do heavier cutting than you describe with no problems. The 2240 is 1.5 lbs lighter.
I have a 2240and do heavier cutting than you describe with no problems. The 2240 is 1.5 lbs lighter.
The 2253 = 550xp only difference is the color of the saw, and the angled handle, otherwise 100 percent same saw. Look at the manufacturer info on the Jred it will say made in Husqvarna Sweden, same saw.
Husky has stronger brand recognition which carries over to the used market. So if you plan to sell the saw in 5 years you will do better with Husky. But if you plan on making this a 10 or 20 year personal saw who cares about resale, the Jred is cheaper entry price for same saw .
Plus if the dealer doesn't have any 550xp and they have a few 2253 left over then they will give you a deal to buy a 2253 vs ordering a new 550xp
You have stumbled upon a great price on a great pro 50cc saw. My advice for $475 brand new Jred 2253 take it and it should provide you a lifetime of service ( well my lifetime anyways let's just say a solid 20 years of moderate to heavy home and farm use ) if taken care of and maintained properly
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Sweet rest assured you have in many peoples opinions the most advanced best performing designed pro 50cc class saw currently available for sale.
$475 new ? Even more so.
It will take 4 or 5 tanks to fully break in. The saw will get stronger as you approach 5 plus tanks run through it. It will have no issues cutting your brush or cutting your bigger hard wood trees.
Enjoy the saw
$475 new ? Even more so.
It will take 4 or 5 tanks to fully break in. The saw will get stronger as you approach 5 plus tanks run through it. It will have no issues cutting your brush or cutting your bigger hard wood trees.
Enjoy the saw
Congrats on acquiring a very nice saw!
On the Jonsereds and Husqvarnas of that size, it often comes with a .325 NK (narrow kerf) bar and NK chain. The chain should be something like Oregon 95VP, which Husqvarna calls H30 "Pixel" chain. It makes for a very smooth combination. If you want something more aggressive, slap a standard kerf, full chisel chain (like Stihl RS or Oregon LP/LPX) on that same narrow kerf bar. I run Stihl RS chain on all my saws, regardless of brand.
On the Jonsereds and Husqvarnas of that size, it often comes with a .325 NK (narrow kerf) bar and NK chain. The chain should be something like Oregon 95VP, which Husqvarna calls H30 "Pixel" chain. It makes for a very smooth combination. If you want something more aggressive, slap a standard kerf, full chisel chain (like Stihl RS or Oregon LP/LPX) on that same narrow kerf bar. I run Stihl RS chain on all my saws, regardless of brand.
jetsam
Minister of Fire
I'd take the $500 you are looking at spending on a new 50cc, and go buy the used Makita 6401 and an Echo CS-310 30cc.
The 30cc Echo is a great saw and very light. I processed probably 5 cords of wood with mine this year (though I just added a Dolmar 6400, because the 30cc saw is really slow in big oak).
Those two saws will cover your two jobs much better than one compromise saw, and at the same price.
The 30cc Echo is a great saw and very light. I processed probably 5 cords of wood with mine this year (though I just added a Dolmar 6400, because the 30cc saw is really slow in big oak).
Those two saws will cover your two jobs much better than one compromise saw, and at the same price.
jetsam
Minister of Fire
Well, I fail at reading comprehension.
I recently did a lot of saw research on 60cc saws, and the 60cc version of the saw you got was a top contender. Very well reviewed saws, hard to even find anyone who has a bad word for them. Jealous of your magic autotune carb!
I recently did a lot of saw research on 60cc saws, and the 60cc version of the saw you got was a top contender. Very well reviewed saws, hard to even find anyone who has a bad word for them. Jealous of your magic autotune carb!
If you haven't already you might want to make sure the oiler is turned up on high. It's adjustable and the dial is underneath on the bottom of the saw.
I only mention this because when I bought mine the oiler was set low. I didn't think to check it and started cutting and the chain dried up in the middle of the cut. I set it to high and no problems since. Every saw I've ever purchased if the oiler was adjustable it comes set on high. So I was surprised this one was set on low. Your dealer may have already set it to high.
Oil is cheap and I just leave mine set on high. More lubrication the better for chain and bar life etc
I only mention this because when I bought mine the oiler was set low. I didn't think to check it and started cutting and the chain dried up in the middle of the cut. I set it to high and no problems since. Every saw I've ever purchased if the oiler was adjustable it comes set on high. So I was surprised this one was set on low. Your dealer may have already set it to high.
Oil is cheap and I just leave mine set on high. More lubrication the better for chain and bar life etc
jetsam
Minister of Fire
My new saw's manual states that the oiler comes adjusted to 50%, but it was set to 100% and functioning at 0%.
Be sure to run the saw wide open above a light colored surface (like a piece of wood) until you see a line of oil being slung off the chain.
Sounds like you have a good dealer. If they start the saw and run it, and go over it with you in detail, then they are a good dealer in my book
jetsam
Minister of Fire
Well, do it again every day. It's a good habit that will help you identify oiler issues (clogged filter, forgot to put oil in, whatever).
Same here. I always make sure I can see bar oil coming off the bar tip before I cut anything.
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