Is this all i need for the install?
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When I installed my Selkirk Metalbestos kit, it went something like this… it was 2009, so some parts may be fuzzy.
Flat ceiling/ 6/12 pitch rooof.
Figure out ceiling joists and mark area you want to cut. Cut drywall.
Frame out the hole.
Screw in ceiling support box.
I then used a string with a nut on the end to transfer the corners of the cut hole straight up.
There’s not a lot of room between the roof and the ceiling in this area so I may have dropped the insulation shield from on top of the roof down, or slithered through the attic. I don’t remember how it was secured. I assume it must be. But maybe not. *shrug*
I then inserted the pipe with the telescoping part for single wall down through the insulation shield and support box.
I slid the roof flashing down over the part of the pipe that stuck up and then used a level on the pipe to locate the flashing in the correct spot.
After I secured the flashing I went back down in the attic to make sure clearances were met around the pipe. I had to trim one side. I used a sawzall and trimmed from below into the raised part of the flashing.
After that it was just a job of putting a bit of sealant down for extra protection and reshingling. In the attic I moved some insulation into the areas outside the shield.
I put the storm collar on and finished installing the rest of the chimney.
Flat ceiling/ 6/12 pitch rooof.
Figure out ceiling joists and mark area you want to cut. Cut drywall.
Frame out the hole.
Screw in ceiling support box.
I then used a string with a nut on the end to transfer the corners of the cut hole straight up.
There’s not a lot of room between the roof and the ceiling in this area so I may have dropped the insulation shield from on top of the roof down, or slithered through the attic. I don’t remember how it was secured. I assume it must be. But maybe not. *shrug*
I then inserted the pipe with the telescoping part for single wall down through the insulation shield and support box.
I slid the roof flashing down over the part of the pipe that stuck up and then used a level on the pipe to locate the flashing in the correct spot.
After I secured the flashing I went back down in the attic to make sure clearances were met around the pipe. I had to trim one side. I used a sawzall and trimmed from below into the raised part of the flashing.
After that it was just a job of putting a bit of sealant down for extra protection and reshingling. In the attic I moved some insulation into the areas outside the shield.
I put the storm collar on and finished installing the rest of the chimney.
Thank you for the response, what I didn't get from the beginning is how do I put the chimney into the support box. I watched so many videos and it seems selkirk does it differently. I have to put a band around the pipe and screw it into the chimney then lower it into the support box leaving 4" exiting the support box.
Maybe that’s what they are doing now. Mine is just sitting on the support box. I’ve physically lifted the chimney disconnecting the pipe before. My pipe pieces thread together and then there’s a clamp like a hose clamp that fits around them.
Once you look at all the pieces it’ll all become simple and straight forward.
I imagine the hardest part with a cathedral kit would be cutting bevels on frame out. Not overly difficult, but you need to take good measurements.
Once you look at all the pieces it’ll all become simple and straight forward.
I imagine the hardest part with a cathedral kit would be cutting bevels on frame out. Not overly difficult, but you need to take good measurements.
Mine has worked just fine as long as it’s been there.
The sheer strength of the screws holding it in must be more than enough.
The sheer strength of the screws holding it in must be more than enough.
Just to be clear, you dont cut and fold over your support box onto your shingles. You would remove the shingles first then screw that down to the roof decking then reshingle over.
Your install sounds interesting. My Duravent ceiling support just screwed to the side of the support members that I built for the support box, then I just lowered the chimney down into the support box, gave it a twist - done. Locked into place. Obviously I had the hole in the roof and the flashing already in place, nailed, shingled. From there I installed my interior pipe using telescopic pipe, installed my screws and was done with the install in about an hour.
Your install sounds interesting. My Duravent ceiling support just screwed to the side of the support members that I built for the support box, then I just lowered the chimney down into the support box, gave it a twist - done. Locked into place. Obviously I had the hole in the roof and the flashing already in place, nailed, shingled. From there I installed my interior pipe using telescopic pipe, installed my screws and was done with the install in about an hour.
Ya I understand that, I installed solar and a whirled bird with no leaks
!
This was my biggest problem yesterday and it seriously passed me off, I've watched a million hours of videos and even called the company twice, the second time thr guy told me how to do it.
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!This was my biggest problem yesterday and it seriously passed me off, I've watched a million hours of videos and even called the company twice, the second time thr guy told me how to do it.
I actually really don't like twist lock pipe. I have had to many come apart on me while cleaning
Some of them yes some no. Many of the bands on cheaper chimney systems are not very good.
The really thin Selkirk ones don't lock together very well at all
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Clearances are good, one side is 10" the other is 12". I still need to screw the pipe together but otherwise I'm done. I need to also buy the heat shield pipe and install it and start doing my break in which I heard was 200,300,400f.
Wish I had a attic to hide the 2x4 framing around the box.
Wish I had a attic to hide the 2x4 framing around the box.
