Installing New Windows Myself

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Whitenuckler

Member
Feb 16, 2025
203
PEI Canada
I am going to be replacing 3 windows myself soon. I did the measuring myself, and ordered from a local company that makes them.
These are "inserts" ie I will be removing the existing panes and using the existing window frames. This is the easiest way to do it.
If you are a pro, then you would probably cut out the old window and remove it.
I can barely move the big ones as they are heavy and wide. I hope I have the strength to set them in place.
If you have done this before let me know how it went. Thanks

The big ones are about 40x45" - 460CAD ea
The small one is about 28x37 - 340CAD ea
All single Hung. Energy Star.
 

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Hopefully the guy that ordered for you did a better job than they did for me. Gave them the exact measurements of the existing window and these were suppose to be a retrofit window. They were 3" to small and i had to frame in the opening and then fix the siding. Mesure before you pull out the old again and make sure they are right.
 
Hopefully the guy that ordered for you did a better job than they did for me. Gave them the exact measurements of the existing window and these were suppose to be a retrofit window. They were 3" to small and i had to frame in the opening and then fix the siding. Mesure before you pull out the old again and make sure they are right.
Oh no wow I have no idea how they could have done that? Made on Friday afternoon I guess? I just went out and measured them. They are exactly what I asked for. I already bought shims, screws, sealant, and foam. Now it just comes down to did I measure properly. It took me a week to measure, research on how to measure, talk to a pro, and remeasure so I'm not going to know for sure until I take out the panes. I will start with the small window, and hope that goes well. I want to get them all in place the same day, as that foam never lasts me more than one time.
 
Inserts work great, but as zrock pointed out, getting he measurements right is critical. I did an entire 1,000 sq-ft ranch about 15 yrs ago and it took about a day. Once you get the hang of it they go fast.

It was a massive difference, since the old windows were well past there prime, I remember it almost halving the next winter’s heating bill, and these were just lowes, nothing special double pain inserts (and I spray foamed around after install).
 
Inserts work great, but as zrock pointed out, getting he measurements right is critical. I did an entire 1,000 sq-ft ranch about 15 yrs ago and it took about a day. Once you get the hang of it they go fast.

It was a massive difference, since the old windows were well past there prime, I remember it almost halving the next winter’s heating bill, and these were just lowes, nothing special double pain inserts (and I spray foamed around after install).
Well I read how to do the measurements, then I talked to a guy who is an installer. So that should be OK.
My house was built in the early 70's. When I bought it there were/are 3 windows in the back that are original wood. They are "fake" double pane. One pane is sealed, and the other looks like it's removable. The condensation is terrible when it gets really cold. We seem to be getting some very cold and very hot weather (global warming?). This house never had AC, unless they had window units. Now you need it or there is no way you could sleep in the house except in the basement. I have mini-splits, so I hope my cooling bills will be less. I also had to keep those two bedroom doors closed all winter with the heaters set at 15C.
 
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Yea, we that house had similar issues with condensation and rooms being too cold, so sounds like you’re on the right track. That house later got blown insulation in the walls and attic, and got down to like 200 gal/yr oil use for heating and central AC which worked really well without costing a million dollars a month to run.

That house made me a believer in buying the “best” insulation, windows and doors you can afford.
 
Yea, we that house had similar issues with condensation and rooms being too cold, so sounds like you’re on the right track. That house later got blown insulation in the walls and attic, and got down to like 200 gal/yr oil use for heating and central AC which worked really well without costing a million dollars a month to run.

That house made me a believer in buying the “best” insulation, windows and doors you can afford.
Here in PEI they were heavily dependent on oil. All houses had oil boilers with hot water rads (I still have all that, but shut down). Even the hot water came from the boiler. When I first moved in, I had the roof done. They had to take down an old solar water heater that was somehow hooked in. The government here helps homeowners get off oil and get heat pumps with electric hot water tanks. If you get an energy audit, they will help with windows, doors, insulation, heat pumps, electrical upgrades ect. These windows were custom made for me at a small factory about 10 miles away. They are very heavy which is a good sign. Low E also.
Wow only 200 gallons of oil? That's really good. You can even run that on battery/inverter too.
 
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Here in PEI they were heavily dependent on oil. All houses had oil boilers with hot water rads (I still have all that, but shut down). Even the hot water came from the boiler. When I first moved in, I had the roof done. They had to take down an old solar water heater that was somehow hooked in. The government here helps homeowners get off oil and get heat pumps with electric hot water tanks. If you get an energy audit, they will help with windows, doors, insulation, heat pumps, electrical upgrades ect. These windows were custom made for me at a small factory about 10 miles away. They are very heavy which is a good sign. Low E also.
Wow only 200 gallons of oil? That's really good. You can even run that on battery/inverter too.
Yea, they had something similar here (that’s how the blown insulation got done), but I’m still skeptical of heat pumps in sub-zero F temps. I know they have the Article rated ones, but I have a hard time believing they work well down below zero.

That house was extremely energy efficient, but I don’t live there anymore. My new house is a work in progress, and is a candidate for new Windows. That’ll have to wait a few years, still recovering from building the workshop.
 
Yea, they had something similar here (that’s how the blown insulation got done), but I’m still skeptical of heat pumps in sub-zero F temps. I know they have the Article rated ones, but I have a hard time believing they work well down below zero.

That house was extremely energy efficient, but I don’t live there anymore. My new house is a work in progress, and is a candidate for new Windows. That’ll have to wait a few years, still recovering from building the workshop.
I have a new Haier Arctic Zone heat pump. It's not too bad in cold weather. I have an older one, and it is bad in cold weather. It's head was in the basement and it would get down to 15C down there while running up my power bill. Relocated that head to my bedroom and installed the pellet stove. I would say heat pumps should be good to about -10C, after that I'd rather not use them for heat.
 
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They’ll get faster as you do them. Start with the small ones first (obviously!). Details matter for a good window install.
 
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