Installing New Windows Myself

[Whitenuckler]

I am going to be replacing 3 windows myself soon. I did the measuring myself, and ordered from a local company that makes them.
These are "inserts" ie I will be removing the existing panes and using the existing window frames. This is the easiest way to do it.
If you are a pro, then you would probably cut out the old window and remove it.
I can barely move the big ones as they are heavy and wide. I hope I have the strength to set them in place.
If you have done this before let me know how it went. Thanks

The big ones are about 40x45" - 460CAD ea
The small one is about 28x37 - 340CAD ea
All single Hung. Energy Star.

 

[zrock]

Hopefully the guy that ordered for you did a better job than they did for me. Gave them the exact measurements of the existing window and these were suppose to be a retrofit window. They were 3" to small and i had to frame in the opening and then fix the siding. Mesure before you pull out the old again and make sure they are right.

 

[Whitenuckler]

Hopefully the guy that ordered for you did a better job than they did for me. Gave them the exact measurements of the existing window and these were suppose to be a retrofit window. They were 3" to small and i had to frame in the opening and then fix the siding. Mesure before you pull out the old again and make sure they are right.

Oh no wow I have no idea how they could have done that? Made on Friday afternoon I guess? I just went out and measured them. They are exactly what I asked for. I already bought shims, screws, sealant, and foam. Now it just comes down to did I measure properly. It took me a week to measure, research on how to measure, talk to a pro, and remeasure so I'm not going to know for sure until I take out the panes. I will start with the small window, and hope that goes well. I want to get them all in place the same day, as that foam never lasts me more than one time.

 

[Turbo89]

Inserts work great, but as zrock pointed out, getting he measurements right is critical. I did an entire 1,000 sq-ft ranch about 15 yrs ago and it took about a day. Once you get the hang of it they go fast.

It was a massive difference, since the old windows were well past there prime, I remember it almost halving the next winter’s heating bill, and these were just lowes, nothing special double pain inserts (and I spray foamed around after install).

 

[Whitenuckler]

Inserts work great, but as zrock pointed out, getting he measurements right is critical. I did an entire 1,000 sq-ft ranch about 15 yrs ago and it took about a day. Once you get the hang of it they go fast.

It was a massive difference, since the old windows were well past there prime, I remember it almost halving the next winter’s heating bill, and these were just lowes, nothing special double pain inserts (and I spray foamed around after install).

Well I read how to do the measurements, then I talked to a guy who is an installer. So that should be OK.
My house was built in the early 70's. When I bought it there were/are 3 windows in the back that are original wood. They are "fake" double pane. One pane is sealed, and the other looks like it's removable. The condensation is terrible when it gets really cold. We seem to be getting some very cold and very hot weather (global warming?). This house never had AC, unless they had window units. Now you need it or there is no way you could sleep in the house except in the basement. I have mini-splits, so I hope my cooling bills will be less. I also had to keep those two bedroom doors closed all winter with the heaters set at 15C.

 

[Turbo89]

Yea, we that house had similar issues with condensation and rooms being too cold, so sounds like you’re on the right track. That house later got blown insulation in the walls and attic, and got down to like 200 gal/yr oil use for heating and central AC which worked really well without costing a million dollars a month to run.

That house made me a believer in buying the “best” insulation, windows and doors you can afford.

 

[Whitenuckler]

Yea, we that house had similar issues with condensation and rooms being too cold, so sounds like you’re on the right track. That house later got blown insulation in the walls and attic, and got down to like 200 gal/yr oil use for heating and central AC which worked really well without costing a million dollars a month to run.

That house made me a believer in buying the “best” insulation, windows and doors you can afford.

Here in PEI they were heavily dependent on oil. All houses had oil boilers with hot water rads (I still have all that, but shut down). Even the hot water came from the boiler. When I first moved in, I had the roof done. They had to take down an old solar water heater that was somehow hooked in. The government here helps homeowners get off oil and get heat pumps with electric hot water tanks. If you get an energy audit, they will help with windows, doors, insulation, heat pumps, electrical upgrades ect. These windows were custom made for me at a small factory about 10 miles away. They are very heavy which is a good sign. Low E also.
Wow only 200 gallons of oil? That's really good. You can even run that on battery/inverter too.

 

[Turbo89]

Here in PEI they were heavily dependent on oil. All houses had oil boilers with hot water rads (I still have all that, but shut down). Even the hot water came from the boiler. When I first moved in, I had the roof done. They had to take down an old solar water heater that was somehow hooked in. The government here helps homeowners get off oil and get heat pumps with electric hot water tanks. If you get an energy audit, they will help with windows, doors, insulation, heat pumps, electrical upgrades ect. These windows were custom made for me at a small factory about 10 miles away. They are very heavy which is a good sign. Low E also.
Wow only 200 gallons of oil? That's really good. You can even run that on battery/inverter too.

Yea, they had something similar here (that’s how the blown insulation got done), but I’m still skeptical of heat pumps in sub-zero F temps. I know they have the Article rated ones, but I have a hard time believing they work well down below zero.

That house was extremely energy efficient, but I don’t live there anymore. My new house is a work in progress, and is a candidate for new Windows. That’ll have to wait a few years, still recovering from building the workshop.

 

[Whitenuckler]

Yea, they had something similar here (that’s how the blown insulation got done), but I’m still skeptical of heat pumps in sub-zero F temps. I know they have the Article rated ones, but I have a hard time believing they work well down below zero.

That house was extremely energy efficient, but I don’t live there anymore. My new house is a work in progress, and is a candidate for new Windows. That’ll have to wait a few years, still recovering from building the workshop.

I have a new Haier Arctic Zone heat pump. It's not too bad in cold weather. I have an older one, and it is bad in cold weather. It's head was in the basement and it would get down to 15C down there while running up my power bill. Relocated that head to my bedroom and installed the pellet stove. I would say heat pumps should be good to about -10C, after that I'd rather not use them for heat.

 

[EatenByLimestone]

They’ll get faster as you do them. Start with the small ones first (obviously!). Details matter for a good window install.

 

[blades]

I have done 3 homes, 2 were the repacement inserts took about a day in each case. The place i have now is all casement units so I just replaced the leaking glass panels with new ones. 50% reduction in heating costs on this place. 2 seasons and I broke even cost wise . Took a 1/2 a day to do the work. Now I need to insulate the basement cause I work down there 4 days a week. Debating on a pellet stove or propane furnace just for basement. I have an older englander pellet unit, but pellet cost have risen to where the propane would be less expensive in the long run ( have electric down there now $$$ ouch. and no insulation, poured concrete walls)

 

[CatfishHunter]

Hopefully the guy that ordered for you did a better job than they did for me. Gave them the exact measurements of the existing window and these were suppose to be a retrofit window. They were 3" to small and i had to frame in the opening and then fix the siding. Mesure before you pull out the old again and make sure they are right.

Same thing happened to me replacing a cracked 4x4 window above the doorway at my boat-access cabin. I slowly boated this big window pane across the lake (crashing through big waves), carried it up all 88 steps, pulled out the old window standing on a ladder, and then couldn't get the new one in. Sure enough they cut the window about 3/8" too big. I ended up sitting in the window opening with a carving knife, expanding the wooden window frame on two sides. I almost fell out when a black-capped chickadee thought he could fly through my ear.

Always measure windows when taking possession from the manufacturer. What's good enough for them will likely not be good enough for you!

 

[Whitenuckler]

Same thing happened to me replacing a cracked 4x4 window above the doorway at my boat-access cabin. I slowly boated this big window pane across the lake (crashing through big waves), carried it up all 88 steps, pulled out the old window standing on a ladder, and then couldn't get the new one in. Sure enough they cut the window about 3/8" too big. I ended up sitting in the window opening with a carving knife, expanding the wooden window frame on two sides. I almost fell out when a black-capped chickadee thought he could fly through my ear.

Always measure windows when taking possession from the manufacturer. What's good enough for them will likely not be good enough for you!

That is some story ! I actually didn't measure them at the factory as we seemed to be more concerned about loading them into the back of my jeep. They didn't have them packaged in cardboard edges, they were as-is so we had to be careful. I didn't measure them at home because I had to carry them by myself into the garage. Then they sat there until they started to get in the way. Only when I moved them did I think to myself "I had better grab my measurements and check" They were slightly less than what I asked for, and I only subtracted 3/8. Still won't know how I did for measuring ect, but I'm 99% sure I know how to measure. The width is easy, however the height is a bit harder unless you lift the bottom pane up out of the sill notch which I did.

 

[Whitenuckler]

I have done 3 homes, 2 were the repacement inserts took about a day in each case. The place i have now is all casement units so I just replaced the leaking glass panels with new ones. 50% reduction in heating costs on this place. 2 seasons and I broke even cost wise . Took a 1/2 a day to do the work. Now I need to insulate the basement cause I work down there 4 days a week. Debating on a pellet stove or propane furnace just for basement. I have an older englander pellet unit, but pellet cost have risen to where the propane would be less expensive in the long run ( have electric down there now $$$ ouch. and no insulation, poured concrete walls)

Wow I'm just getting around to doing my first inserts. I have had them done for me elsewhere but didn't pay too much attention. My basement here is finished which makes it easy to heat. Yes, you need to insulate for sure. I'm not a big fan of spray foam, but from what I understand it is very good if done properly. Probably putting up a stud wall is a big part of the job. There is also a debate around vapor barrier if you use rockwool. Probably if you insulate, the electric would be fine and the payback for gas would come far into the future. Propane is good in a power outage which is a big plus. Pellets are expensive here too now. For $7 Canadian a bag per day I could run a heat pump. Problem is that when it get's really cold they don't work well and on a power outage no heat.