Install myself, or pay the pros?

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Got 'er poured today as planned, but not without much frustration. My drill burned out mixing the first batch,so I ran to HD to see if they had something that would work (which they did not), then headed home planning to bag the project. My neighbor convinced me to soldier on, and helped me mix the remaining 6 bags by hand. The first bag was already getting pretty stiff by then, so that made the whole screeding process pretty tough. I missed the float window since I was still trying to get the screeding done, so the surface is a bit "rustic". Oh well, a little patching paste, sanding, and stain should make it look just fine.

Masonry has always been my Achilles heel.

[Hearth.com] Install myself, or pay the pros?
 
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Healthier? Maybe I got a bad batch...that crap crumbled under its own weight, and is miserably itchy to boot.

Were the packages beat up? You should be able to pop them open right at the install site and pop them in the stud bays with minimal effort. If you need to cut it, don't use a utility knife, use a long serrated blade with scallops (not sharp pointed serrations).

Fiberglass has a much finer fiber which is more hazardous to your lungs. In both cases you should wear a dust mask during installation. I use it in place of fiberglass for health and performance reasons. It has a higher R-value and it's heavier density makes it a very good sound insulator as well. If it ever gets wet it doesn't turn to mush like fiberglass. And of course the reason you are using it, it's high melting point.
 
Got 'er poured today as planned, but not without much frustration. My drill burned out mixing the first batch,so I ran to HD to see if they had something that would work (which they did not), then headed home planning to bag the project. My neighbor convinced me to soldier on, and helped me mix the remaining 6 bags by hand. The first bag was already getting pretty stiff by then, so that made the whole screeding process pretty tough. I missed the float window since I was still trying to get the screeding done, so the surface is a bit "rustic". Oh well, a little patching paste, sanding, and stain should make it look just fine.

Masonry has always been my Achilles heel.

Concrete work. It helps to be prepared. For small batches I like a Rubi electric mixer with a two speed gearbox. Drill motors were not designed for mortars:

(broken link removed to http://www.masterwholesale.com/rubimix-9-n-24949.html)

But for a lot less money and a little bit of sweat, the old school method works almost as well:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Razor-Back-7-in-Forged-Gooseneck-Mortar-Hoe-66123/100121903
 
Question about a vapor barrier in the alcove...there will be 1/2" durock with approx. 3" of cultured stone veneer on top of that. The sheathing is 7/16" Zip System that will have vinyl siding on top of it.

Planning to go with R15 Roxul, but do I need a vapor barrier in there or not?
 
Alrighty...got the insulation and most of the Durock done in the the past two days...went with R-15 Roxul in the walls and a dual layer of R-15 Roxul in the ceiling of the alcove. Got all of the Durock hung today and mostly taped, as well as hung the drywall lid of the alcove. Tomorrow I will finish the taping, and hang/tape the remaining drywall around the opening. Wednesday, the stone guy comes. I'm thinking that I should get the drywall that's adjacent to the stone primed and painted before the guy gets here, so hopefully I have time to squeeze that in.
[Hearth.com] Install myself, or pay the pros? [Hearth.com] Install myself, or pay the pros? [Hearth.com] Install myself, or pay the pros?
 
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Got all of the Durock hung today and mostly taped, as well as hung the drywall lid of the alcove. Tomorrow I will finish the taping, and hang/tape the remaining drywall around the opening. Wednesday, the stone guy comes. I'm thinking that I should get the drywall that's adjacent to the stone primed and painted before the guy gets here, so hopefully I have time to squeeze that in.

I would add some more fasteners to the cement board. You don't want to skimp here because they are the only thing supporting the weight of the stones, mortar and cement board.
 
Good catch. I believe the requirement is one screw every 8".
 
The fastening specs are as follows:

"Wall & Ceiling Installation 1/2" & 5/8" - Fasten to studs spaced 16" o.c. Space fasteners 8" o.c. for walls, 6" o.c. for ceilings. Fit ends and edges of panels closely but not forced together."

My screws are all precisely 8" o.c...it just may not look like it in the photos.
 
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The fastening specs are as follows:

"Wall & Ceiling Installation 1/2" & 5/8" - Fasten to studs spaced 16" o.c. Space fasteners 8" o.c. for walls, 6" o.c. for ceilings. Fit ends and edges of panels closely but not forced together."

My screws are all precisely 8" o.c...it just may not look like it in the photos.

It looks like the three panels on the right side of the alcove all need another vertical row of fasteners (on the first stud past the corner) to meet the 16" on center rule.

The fastening schedule is the minimum acceptable and is not overkill at all.
 
My screws are all precisely 8" o.c...it just may not look like it in the photos.

Saying it doesn't make it so.

To meet the 8" oc minimum, a 3' wide sheet of cement board needs at least 4 central fasteners per stud in addition to the two edge fasteners (for a total of 6). You only have 3 central fasteners which implies a spacing over the maximum of 8".
 
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Saying it doesn't make it so.

To meet the 8" oc minimum, a 3' wide sheet of cement board needs at least 4 central fasteners per stud in addition to the two edge fasteners (for a total of 6). You only have 3 central fasteners which implies a spacing over the maximum of 8".

Upon closer inspection, you are absolutely right...I miscounted on the first board, and copied the pattern on the rest assuming it was right. Good catch...thanks!
 
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Upon closer inspection, you are absolutely right...I miscounted on the first board, and copied the pattern on the rest assuming it was right. Good catch...thanks!

Not a problem.
 
This has been an incredibly helpful thread to me. I'm in the process of (finally) starting my hearth... had to wait on my wood stove install till this summer when I added on to the house.

I'm very impressed with all the work you've done, RB.
 
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This has been an incredibly helpful thread to me. I'm in the process of (finally) starting my hearth... had to wait on my wood stove install till this summer when I added on to the house.

I'm very impressed with all the work you've done, RB.

Glad to help, man...a mistake learned from is a mistake tempered.
 
So...the stone guy had to push me out until next weekend, but all is well since I can start working on the siding in the meantime. I also figured I'd pull the stove out of its crating to prepare for the first burn out in the driveway this weekend to keep from filling the house with paint fumes. As I cut the shrink wrap and strapping, I discovered that the door was missing. Awesome.

The hearth store is closed until Tuesday; no burn for me this weekend :-(

Hoping everything goes smoothly when I call the place on Tuesday...there was already a little drama when I initially ordered the thing; the salesman quoted me a great price, then when it came time to put down the deposit, he told me the catalog changed and the stoves are now sold without doors, and it'd be another $340 for the glass door. Possibly an honest mistake, but I was not happy about that at all...and now the damn thing isn't even here. Hopefully it's somewhere in the shop, and doesn't have to be ordered.
 
[Hearth.com] Install myself, or pay the pros?

Had to break down and turn the heat pump on...was down in the mid-60s in the house. Going to get everything primed/painted tomorrow, and then go test out the thumb we put on my dad's backhoe...should come in handy when I bring in a load of logs!

[Hearth.com] Install myself, or pay the pros?
 
Since I have tomorrow and Tuesday off (burning through vacation days like they're made out of balsa wood), I'm going to make some headway on the siding. It looks like it should go pretty fast, but I've never worked with the stuff, and I do have a couple of interesting plane-interfaces to figure out the trimming for. Wish me luck!
 
It was definitely slow going at first getting the corners installed plumb and figuring out the correct firring for the fascia, but made a little progress nevertheless...tomorrow my dad will be here to run the miter saw so I can focus on throwing the siding up. Man, the rest of the house looks shabby now next to the new siding.

[Hearth.com] Install myself, or pay the pros?
 
. As I cut the shrink wrap and strapping, I discovered that the door was missing. Awesome.

The hearth store is closed until Tuesday; no burn for me this weekend :-(

Hoping everything goes smoothly when I call the place on Tuesday...there was already a little drama when I initially ordered the thing; the salesman quoted me a great price, then when it came time to put down the deposit, he told me the catalog changed and the stoves are now sold without doors, and it'd be another $340 for the glass door. Possibly an honest mistake, but I was not happy about that at all...and now the damn thing isn't even here. Hopefully it's somewhere in the shop, and doesn't have to be ordered.

What?
They sell a freaking stove without a freaking door? That has to be just about the most idiotic sales tactic I've heard yet.
They would have gotten a foxtrot oscar from me as I left to go somewhere else to buy a stove.

Greg
 
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Lookin' good!

Now, what would really set the whole thing off is to build a flared stone "foundation" at the base!

I know! I'm thinking about maybe a planter box on all three sides for the time being...next summer I am rebuilding/extending the deck to wrap the chase and have an entrance from the driveway.
 
Seen more than a few stoves offered for sale that do not include the door, and these are not the cheap ones either. years ago bought a new utility van , passenger seat( not a rear seat but that was also extra) , spare tire and a few other things were all extras.
 
What?
They sell a freaking stove without a freaking door? That has to be just about the most idiotic sales tactic I've heard yet.
They would have gotten a foxtrot oscar from me as I left to go somewhere else to buy a stove.

Greg
Some companies do it so they dont have to test the stove with the different door options. But the dealer should have made sure they ordered a door it is kind of nessecary.