Insert v. freestanding stove

[dafattkidd]

Based on the picture and the dimensions it sounds like an insert is the simpler option. I generally prefer a free standing stove, but inserts are very good heaters. I easily heat 1,700 sf with an insert. There are a lot of options that will work with that fireplace.

Something else worth mentioning: the newer EPA regulated wood stoves/inserts require well seasoned wood. They burn differently than the dragon in the basement.

 

[bsruther]

Having had both, I prefer freestanding. I think I'd go with an insert in your situation though. That's a nice looking fireplace and it would be a shame to alter it for the sake of having a freestanding. As far as power outages go, I think that brute of a stove you have in your lower level will keep you covered.

 

[mass_burner]

There are some nice convection inserts out there, mine included. I don't even use the fan on my morso anymore, don't need it. Heat output is great for our 1950 sq ft.

 

[TomatoLover]

Wow, you guys are amazing! Thank you all for your responses. You've given us a lot more to consider than we originally thought.

I prefer the look of an insert for the living room, but am concerned about heat output and the use of a blower. I'm partial to the freestander because there is no electric needed. With National Grid announcing a 37% increase in electric rates this year, we're seriously trying to reduce electric use (our main heating system is electric baseboard -- roughly $1800/month to heat this house in winter months -- hence our desire to heat with wood). I'd prefer a stove upstairs that does not need electricity and does not have the noise of the blower, but I get that I might have to make some sacrifices. Does anyone make a blower that does not use electricity? Can we just use our eco-fan?

The dragon in the basement (thanks, Daffatkid, for that new name -- it has stuck!) is heating the house in the evenings right now. And it would cover us in the case of a power outage (we also have a generator). But we can't get an overnight burn on it and we only get about 4 hours max. The firebox is huge, but putting in more than 5-6 4" splits leads to a HOT fire that we cannot control with the air intakes. With the valves closed, it will still climb to 800 (stove top) within 40 minutes from a cold start. The lower level heats up to a balmy 90 degrees before a fairly decent convection loop in the house starts moving the warm air upstairs and down the halls. However, I am not going to babysit the dragon all winter and constantly load it. We've got well seasoned birch, maple and oak and the dragon just devours it.

So, upstairs we're looking at the PE Summit insert, the Regency Hearth Heater, and the Englander insert (Home Depot -- it's clearly the cheapest option, but do we get what we pay for?). Money is an issue here, but we want to make sure we don't go the cheapest route and then regret it.

And my stupid question of the day is: where is the cord to plug in the blower on the insert? Will we have a cord running across the hearth into the nearest outlet?

 

[mellow]

And my stupid question of the day is: where is the cord to plug in the blower on the insert? Will we have a cord running across the hearth into the nearest outlet?

Yep, most manufacturers will photoshop that out of product photos.

 

[mellow]

This is kinda joking, kinda serious, but you might be able to fit a Buck 261 in the fireplace upstairs so you have a matching pair. With a hearth extension or some kind of protection in front of course.

(broken image removed)

 

[TomatoLover]

A matching set! Love it. This would actually make my husband's day. The Buck 261 is a little too tall at 33" high - the opening to the fireplace is only 29". Our current dragon is only 25" high (but 33" deep). Now in search of a shorter matching dragon.

As for the hearth extension, that is not a problem. We will probably do it, regardless of whether we go insert or freestander. We have a child with special needs and the 3' of tile in front of the dragon downstairs serves as a warning track for him. He will never understand what it means to keep combustibles (couch pillows, books, dogs) a certain distance from the stove, but he gets "never put anything on the tile."

 

[mellow]

The Buck 261 is a little too tall at 33" high - the opening to the fireplace is only 29"

NOTE: Optional 2” legs Part # FA FS261 Are available when installing Model 261 into a masonry fireplace with existing height of only 24"

 

[Snotrocket]

Free standing in a fireplace is where it's at. The surrounding masonry radiates heat like crazy long after the fire dies down.

I completely copied Barts setup.....

(broken image removed)

 

[Woody Stover]

Looks like the back of the fireplace slants forward quite a bit, so that the depth at the top is considerably less. Looks like you would have to top-vent or go with an insert. Some stoves (side-loaders) are wide, but not real deep, so maybe rear-vent could work with those. With only 1350 sq.ft. to heat, you won't need a huge stove, so that will help as far as fit...

 

[branchburner]

I dont know what branch burner means by being able to use the existing flue if it is a fireplace it will need a liner either way

What I mean is, the OP wondered if he could still use the existing chimney flue to avoid putting a stove pipe through the cathedral ceiling. So yes, he can... either an insert OR a freestanding stove can use the existing chimney flue, with the same liner setup for either.

 

[bholler]

What I mean is, the OP wondered if he could still use the existing chimney flue to avoid putting a stove pipe through the cathedral ceiling. So yes, he can... either an insert OR a freestanding stove can use the existing chimney flue, with the same liner setup for either.

Ok it sounded to me like you were saying they could use the existing flue without a liner i didn't follow you but i get it not sorry for the misunderstanding

 

[Snotrocket]

Ok it sounded to me like you were saying they could use the existing flue without a liner i didn't follow you but i get it not sorry for the misunderstanding

If it was the proper size flu and it was in good condition there's no reason it has to be lined.

It's probably at least a 10 inch flu though as it was used as a fireplace, so the liner would need to be used for proper draft.

 

[bholler]

If it was the proper size flu and it was in good condition there's no reason it has to be lined.

You are absolutely correct but i have yet to see a good way to properly connect a stove into a fireplace flue regardless of the size. But yes if it was in good shape sized right and you could connect to it correctly it would be fine

 

[branchburner]

My ideal installation would be a freestanding stove that can be slid far enough into the fireplace that the flue can be connected directly from the stove flue collar to the full-height stainless liner to daylight, without a 90° elbow off of a rear-exit stove. That said, there are zillions of perfectly performing hearth stove installations using a rear exit from the stove into a 90° and up into the liner. Just a bit trickier to sweep. .

I would suggest a tee, rather than an elbow, when rear-venting.There is actually an advantage to a rear-vent with a tee: crud falls into the tee, where it's capped below, rather than into the stove. I don't find sweeping through the tee all that tricky.

 

[gregbesia]

TomatoLover , do yourself a favor and get something that will give you an overnight burn. I have the englander insert and though I like it , and over the last 5 years it saved us thousands of dollars, I so wish for a longer burn times.

 

[fossil]

I would suggest a tee, rather than an elbow, when rear-venting.There is actually an advantage to a rear-vent with a tee: crud falls into the tee, where it's capped below, rather than into the stove. I don't find sweeping through the tee all that tricky.

Right, agreed. I could have been more clear. I was more referring to the change of direction than just how it's accomplished. Rick