Insert Running Hot Last Night

[bholler]

Just an update on what's going on with the old insert.

Went to Hechlers in Troy MO to look at new inserts. They have a huge selection....at least to us they do(ck out their website or FB). We drove 2.5 hours one way to see them because nobody around Peoria Illinois carries BK or Buck, and we were going that direction for some other stuff so we just kept on driving. Pretty sure we will go with the BK Princess it seems. Like the burn time and the set it forget it ability. It won't be sole source of heat but can go a long way making a dent in our electric bill, will let the furnace pick up the slack. Six inch liner is also a plus, but have room for the 8" with some brick work in the damper area I guess if we go with the Buck 91.

Chimney sweep came by to take a look at what the current setup is. No issues other than he believes we will need a chemical strip of the creosote. They said it will make it look new inside. Nobody has pulled out the current insert to look yet but that was the initial feeling. Was not expecting that or the cost ($1800) to to do the chemical stripping or the time frame to get it done because of the temps right now. Said they needed 65* or better for a couple of days to do it which means March or April. Pretty much shoots any usage of a new insert for the next 2 or 3 months.

Was planning on doing a block off plate with Roxul myself after reading about them on this forum. Does the entire 25' of 13X13 flue tile need chemical stripping if there's a block off plate and insulation with the insulated liner? If not, the work could be done to strip the brick in the fireplace with the old insert out, and the temps are right for the process since it's indoors. Not looking to cut corners but what is actually needed to make it all work? Any other process besides chemical strip to remove the buildup?

With the chemical strip and costs of an install I think I'm looking to do the install myself. Even If I have to rent a lift for a day to get the liner in (25' tall and 12/12 pitch roof) I'm money ahead it seems.

Thanks for any suggestions you all might have.

Steve

Yes the creosote needs cleaned the whole way. But 1800 is high especially since they haven't actually seen it. Most can probably be removed mechanically with some chemicals in the smoke chamber. Or even removal of the clay as jatoxico said would be cheaper

 

[unimog1300]

BK is a nice stove. They function best when draft is within spec so check that chimney will not be too tall. Not a pro opinion but if it comes to it I wonder if it would be cheaper to remove the clay tile altogether than strip it. Certainly make installing the liner a whole lot easier. What size is the clay tile, can you pass an insulated liner thru it?

Tiles are 13"X13"

I'd really rather not remove the tiles. Just had the top 5 courses of the chimney replaced this summer.....just throwing that money away for the tiles and labor.

 

[jatoxico]

Tiles are 13"X13"

I'd really rather not remove the tiles. Just had the top 5 courses of the chimney replaced this summer.....just throwing that money away for the tiles and labor.

That's pretty big. Based on hollers comments I'd get a couple quotes on the cleaning. Not sure if that's something you could DIY and I think there are mechanical ways to clean glaze, if that's really what you have as well.

 

[bholler]

Tiles are 13"X13"

I'd really rather not remove the tiles. Just had the top 5 courses of the chimney replaced this summer.....just throwing that money away for the tiles and labor.

But those tiles will no longer be doing anything. And if they are glazed really badly it may be cheapest to remove them.

 

[unimog1300]

That's pretty big. Based on hollers comments I'd get a couple quotes on the cleaning. Not sure if that's something you could DIY and I think there are mechanical ways to clean glaze, if that's really what you have as well.

I'm expecting a call from another chimney sweep today hopefully. We'll see when they can come out.

I need to get some measurements just to be safe for the new insert too while the old one is moved out.

 

[unimog1300]

So the chimney sweep company came yesterday to see what we need to go with a new modern insert. Pulled the old insert out of the way and looked the fireplace opening over. They also went on the roof to look down the flue tile to see how it looks up top.

So it looks like they will have to do a chemical strip of the flue tiles from the top(25' tall) to around 10' above the insert. They said that its shiny tar like substance (1/16" thick maybe?) that brushing with a soot eater type tool won't clean it off. I asked about a wire brush and they said it wouldn't get it clean either. They will also probably have to do the smoke chamber area too. In the end I'm guessing the whole thing will get quoted for a price. Looks like just a little work to get the 6" insulated liner in place they said. They are going to send a quote to do all that and install the new insert and insulated liner.

Here's my questions:

1. Looks like to chemically strip the flue they need 60+ degree temps for several days for the chemical to work. That takes burning anything out for the rest of the season(Central Illinois). Not exactly what I was looking for but if that's the only option then I guess that's what it is. Had not planned on spending that kind of money (initial ballpark price of $1800, waiting on firm quote). Is there any other way to remove the creosote?

2. Help me understand why 100% of the creosote has to be removed from the flue tiles? They said they can't get 100% of it without using the chemical. So if the rounded corners inside the flue tiles have creosote why does it matter if there's going to be an insulated 6" liner inside of 13" square flue tiles? The liner and insulation will be inside that void in the tiles and capped at the top.......so what's the need for getting every spec out? My flue temps should be much lower and more uniform to the top, don't see the need for the expense of the chemical strip. I'm sure I'm missing something I guess.

Also working on a solar kiln to get my wood where it needs to be for MC. We have the space to store years of wood, but why when it seems people are having the desired results with the kilns they are building. May give the ShelterLogic ( https://www.shelterlogic.com/shop/firewood-seasoning-shed-10-x-20-x-8-ft ) a try. Still looking at different options.

Again thanks for everyone's help.
Steve

 

[HomeinPA]

So the chimney sweep company came yesterday to see what we need to go with a new modern insert. Pulled the old insert out of the way and looked the fireplace opening over. They also went on the roof to look down the flue tile to see how it looks up top.

So it looks like they will have to do a chemical strip of the flue tiles from the top(25' tall) to around 10' above the insert. They said that its shiny tar like substance (1/16" thick maybe?) that brushing with a soot eater type tool won't clean it off. I asked about a wire brush and they said it wouldn't get it clean either. They will also probably have to do the smoke chamber area too. In the end I'm guessing the whole thing will get quoted for a price. Looks like just a little work to get the 6" insulated liner in place they said. They are going to send a quote to do all that and install the new insert and insulated liner.

Here's my questions:

1. Looks like to chemically strip the flue they need 60+ degree temps for several days for the chemical to work. That takes burning anything out for the rest of the season(Central Illinois). Not exactly what I was looking for but if that's the only option then I guess that's what it is. Had not planned on spending that kind of money (initial ballpark price of $1800, waiting on firm quote). Is there any other way to remove the creosote?

2. Help me understand why 100% of the creosote has to be removed from the flue tiles? They said they can't get 100% of it without using the chemical. So if the rounded corners inside the flue tiles have creosote why does it matter if there's going to be an insulated 6" liner inside of 13" square flue tiles? The liner and insulation will be inside that void in the tiles and capped at the top.......so what's the need for getting every spec out? My flue temps should be much lower and more uniform to the top, don't see the need for the expense of the chemical strip. I'm sure I'm missing something I guess.

Also working on a solar kiln to get my wood where it needs to be for MC. We have the space to store years of wood, but why when it seems people are having the desired results with the kilns they are building. May give the ShelterLogic ( https://www.shelterlogic.com/shop/firewood-seasoning-shed-10-x-20-x-8-ft ) a try. Still looking at different options.

Again thanks for everyone's help.
Steve

Hell, for 1800 bucks I'd almost drive out from PA and RoKleen the the thing and be done in few hours and it would be clean enough for a properly insulated liner and hooked up to the stove in a day. I can't wait to hear what they want to charge for the liner install.

 

[unimog1300]

Hell, for 1800 bucks I'd almost drive out from PA and RoKleen the the thing and be done in few hours and it would be clean enough for a properly insulated liner and hooked up to the stove in a day. I can't wait to hear what they want to charge for the liner install.

Well I still haven't gotten a quote yet from the inspection they did a little over a week ago. I did contact another company and they were supposed to call yesterday......of course they didn't.