In search of wall shield ideas

[KindredSpiritzz]

I'm still trying to figure out how to get the Durock an inch off the wall.

im planning on using schedule 80 ss pipe, cut it with a chop saw to 1 inch for spacers. 3 inch dry wall screws thru the durarock and the spacer right to the wall. Then i can cement some stone tiles over that. Least thats what im figuring on thus far.

 

[KodiakII]

I used 1" fire rated metal furring, with tin, then durock, and finally a "rustic" brick veneer. As per wett guidelines fasteners could not go from the durock into any wood in the wall. This allowed me to get the stove close enough to the wall that the insurance inspector bitched about not being to read the plate on the back of the stove (that's why I left the manual out for him)!

 

[Gareth96]

Biggest downfall I see in my metallaire panel idea is that they might get dented if something (a split) hits them, but then I guess you could take it off and bang out the dent to some extent...

Edit: Re-edited: and deleted..

 

[KindredSpiritzz]

As per wett guidelines fasteners could not go from the durock into any wood in the wall.

well if you cant use any metal fastener how the hell you supposed to connect it? I don't get that at all.

 

[jillybeansisme]

Those of you looking at stone veneer panels might want to look at www.fauxpanels.com. I ordered some samples (which the cost will come off if you order panels). They look nice.

 

[Gareth96]

I didn't look at what WETT is, as I think that is only for Canada?? But the NFPA 211 shows pics of screws going into studs (from durock, thru spacer, thru drywall, into stud).. so I think that is ok?? Begreen?

 

[KindredSpiritzz]

ohhh i like them panels, great idea and simple. Adding those to my master plan

 

[begreen]

im planning on using schedule 80 ss pipe, cut it with a chop saw to 1 inch for spacers. 3 inch dry wall screws thru the durarock and the spacer right to the wall. Then i can cement some stone tiles over that. Least thats what im figuring on thus far.

Sch. 80 would be overkill. 1/2" copper pipe is a common source for spacers or just snap off 3" cement board strips. You can also buy a bag of 1" ceramic spacers made for this purpose.

 

[pfettig77]

Also, the new Jotul manual says that if single was stove pipe is used, the wall shield should be 4' instead of 3'. If I did that, is that the only thing I'd have to do to reduce clearance for the single wall pipe (from 18" to about 15")?

 

[begreen]

It depends on how the stove is connected. The wall shield may need to be continued all the way up to the ceiling if a vertical pipe. Or up past the thimble if not. Or use pipe shields.

 

[pfettig77]

Also, the new Jotul manual says that if single was stove pipe is used, the wall shield should be 4' instead of 3'. If I did that, is that the only thing I'd have to do to reduce clearance for the single wall pipe (from 18" to about 15")?

 

[AK13]

You can also buy a bag of 1" ceramic spacers made for this purpose.

Bingo, I was waiting for someone to say this. I wouldn't go through too much trouble when you can just buy a bag of spacers.

Great ideas here. I have been using plain old durarock leaned up against the wall for 2 years now and really want to get actual heat shields made up to clean up the look and provide the code air gaps.

I had been planing to wrap metal around the durarock but recently was reviewing NFPA and realized that I really don't need the durarock unless I need it for structure. So I think I may use galvanized tin roofing instead. Kind of like this: http://thismama.files.wordpress.com/2012/02/1-img_6529.jpg?w=529&h=352

My only concern is that I want to customize the shape and I'm thinking that the galvanized tin might be a pain to make clean straight cuts in (I was thiking maybe use my angle grinder?)

If anyone is considering using the ceiling tiles without the cement board backer (as was suggested above) I would just make sure that the tiles meet the NFPA requirements for thickness. They very well might, I didn't check it. I think if I end up going that rout I'd use the cement board just to add structure.

This is a great thread. I'd love to see more pictures of home made heat shields.

 

[Gareth96]

I have an e-mail out to Armstrong asking the gauge or thickness of the tiles.. also asked if it's galvanized.. Is galvanized ok for this application? Doesn't it give off poisionous fumes if subjected to heat?

 

[begreen]

I don't think they are galvanized. Armstrong warns about them rusting if not coated. Still, it's good to ask.

 

[AK13]

Is galvanized ok for this application? Doesn't it give off poisionous fumes if subjected to heat?

Jeez, good point. What I really meant was corrogated metal roofing, but then again wouldn't that all be galvanized?

Wikipedia says that galvanized is safe up to 392 F. I guess that should make it fine for a heat shield! It better not get that hot! I think that its welding that is the real safety issue with galvanized. I see quite a few pictures of others using corrogated metal panels around stoves as a shield.

 

[pfettig77]

Those of you looking at stone veneer panels might want to look at www.fauxpanels.com. I ordered some samples (which the cost will come off if you order panels). They look nice.

On the video is says they're made of polyurethane - doesn't that make them combustible? If not, then it looks like a really good idea.

 

[begreen]

Sure sounds combustible. Painted plastic is not suitable for a wall shield.

 

[pfettig77]

I tried calling Jotul about clearances listed in the manual. I got put through to tech support but I just got a message telling me that if I was a dealer I should leave my name, and if I was just a regular schmuck, I should call the dealer. I called the dealer and he couldn't interpret the manual either, but one thing he said to me was that the wall shield should be left open on the sides as well as the top and bottom. This was the first I'd ever heard of this. Is it true?
Also, I think I'm going to go with tile for behind the stove. I was afraid at first it might look to bathroom-y (that's a word - trust me I'm a teacher) but I did a google image search and found some handsome looking hearths with tile.
(broken link removed to http://www.whitemtridgerunners.com/wmrr/news/wmrr-warming-hut-week11.htm)
http://journeytoeve.blogspot.com/2011/01/wood-stove-hearth-construction-pt-2.html

 

[begreen]

Top and bottom open only are fine. It is all about cool air convecting behind the panel.

 

[pfettig77]

That's what I thought. I never argue because I assume most people know more than me about everything.

 

[KodiakII]

well if you cant use any metal fastener how the hell you supposed to connect it? I don't get that at all.

Simply put you cannot run from the cement board into any of the studs in the wall. The furring strips were fastened to the studs, sheet metal was pop riveted to the furring strips and short screws fastened the cement board.

 

[begreen]

Can you show us the source of that information?

 

[Simonkenton]

You could try a copper heat shield. Copper has the unique quality of reflecting virtually 100 percent of the heat that hits it. I have made freestanding copper heat shields for 2 wood stoves that I installed. You buy a 3x5 foot sheet of copper, cut it to size, and bend it, you could put a couple of 45 degree bends in it and it will just stand there.
I have had an install like this, and have had the stove running at 600 degrees, and could grab and hold the copper heat shield, just 4 inches from the stove, and it didn't burn my fingers. The copper was room temp.

This is a pic of the install at my current house where I attached the copper to the wall on spacers, so that it is 1 inch away from the wall.





When you buy the copper it is beautiful and shiny. But it won't stay that way for long. So I hammer it. I put the sheet of copper on a big beam and hammer the entire surface with a ball peen hammer. It looks cool.

 

[fossil]

Simply put you cannot run from the cement board into any of the studs in the wall.

This is not correct. Rick

 

[Kobeman]

I used 12x12 tiles on the hearth and the wall. I cut 3" strips of cement board and doubled them up for the spacers cut short so I didn't have to cut tile to cover the spacer portion, (hope that makes since) unless you are right over it looking down you don't see them. the backing is 2 layers of cement board which gave me just enough edge on top to cut a sliver of tile to cover the edge without blocking the air space, then I got the Schulter Rondec trim and the lil end pieces to finish it out, painted it to match the tile and my wood trim in the house. This saved me from having to cut bullnose. So far so good, It held up to the VC Acclaim I had prior to the Isle and that thing ran cherry red on the back. Note I caulked the corner seam so everything has somewhere to expand contract and the heat hasn't hurt it but its in the corner furthest from the stove.