Im about to freeze, a challenging question

[Grisu]

I don't want to beat a dead horse for those of you who have been kind enough to respond. just want to make sure I understand everything. I ordered some double walled duravent to match the 5' of pipe that came with the stove. I see what you mean, now that it's colder I'm having smoke pour into the room until the flu is hot. For two nights there was no more creosote, on the third night there was, dripping down the pipe on the outside. Will Insulated pipe cure this? The creosote would end up between the 2walls & I wouldn't see it. Is that normal?
I dont know why im seeing it at all.
Concerning my previous post I replaced a section of pipe every year or so. It felt like all the time, but I never saw any creosote or build up. Just a little dirty
Thank you

Any combustion process also creates water vapor (see the tailpipe of your car in the winter). That water vapor is going up your chimney. If the inner walls of your chimney are below 250 F the water will condense at them and with it the smoke particulates that are also a byproduct of your fire. If, in addition, you burn wood that is still with a lot of moisture you get even more steam that goes through your flue and may also condense. Your current stove pipe is single wall and loses a lot of heat to the outside which means you cannot keep a temp above 250 F for its entire length. That means less draft and more water vapor condensation. If you have a lot of condensation the water will accumulate and drip back down. As you have the pipe installed incorrectly it goes out between the joints instead of dripping back into the stove. An insulated pipe will lose less heat which means less condensation and better draft.

 

[begreen]

Getting a safe insulated class A chimney properly installed will keep flue gases hotter. Did you order DuraTech pipe along with a class A tee, thimble and short stub to bring the class A chimney through the wall? Note that DuraTech class A pipe is different from their DVL double-wall connector pipe which is interior only use.

 

[wmhgs]

Ah ha! I finally see. The pipe is installed, what a plumber would consider upside down, so creosote will run back to the stove & be burned.
Id still love to know why im getting creosote since ive only had 5 fires with dry wood???? I did use 2 sticks of fatwood to start but that not enough to cause all that I got. Here is a pic of the typical used pipe from my 60's stove, a light layer of ash

 

[wmhgs]

Turns out the double walled was wrong. Im going to buy triple walled from tractor supply. It'll cost double what I paid for the stove.
Im sure ill catch hell for this but I gotta share these pics for future education on this site. The new stove was heaven for awhile but when the creosote started we were back to the same to trouble. I had a fire to watch what the smoke did in daylight. Wow! Look at the creosote drip on the ground!
NO im not using again without the new pipe. Any opinions on why a heavy 80's lopi with sealed door etc. Would have this troublewhen my 60's era did not?

 

[Sprinter]

d still love to know why im getting creosote since ive only had 5 fires with dry wood???? I

I'm glad you've stuck through all this. You will do well by learning from the experience to be had here.

Have you tested how dry your wood supply really is? I'm a vocal proponent of moisture meters and would encourage you go use one if you haven't. About $15 and you put the pins in a fresh split and then you know for sure. Makes all the difference, old school stove or new.

 

[wmhgs]

Looking back, the last few replies make a lotta sense & thank you. I hope the $1500 im about to spend does the trick. Scientifically, I only fall short on why the older stove that I had all the smoke trouble with always had a clean pipe. Believe it or not my dad was one of the most accomplished fire protection engineers of his time. But he worked with ships & jets. We would never have allowed the last 2 pics to continue. We just never had any indication of pipe trouble & no one to clue us into chimney vs stove pipe. I wish there was a fibrous board available to keep heat of the walls. I got a stove with insulation on the back & heat sheilds on the sides. I'll sacrifice radiant heat from the single-walled and use the double walled inside. I double layer cement boarded the walls. Not suee what else to do

 

[wmhgs]

I didnt think it was possible but more confusion. The local hvac guy says i need triple walled ($99) 3' @ tractor suppy. The stove store says its too big so the new thing is insulated double walled ($160) 4'. Local supply house has tripple walled ($140 ) 4'. Re michael, triple ($136) 4' but may have galvanized exterior cheaper. Id think ud want the stainless outside & galvinized inside. Tractor suppy it is.

 

[wmhgs]

I have 5' of this. Says duravent class "a" low temp. I assume its for inside?

 

[humpin iron]

what you need is Class "A" not triple wall or air cooled. Insulated Class "A". expensive, but it's the right stuff

 

[wmhgs]

I ended up going with supervent. Class a double walled with an insulated blanket. Its half the price of duratec but from what i can see is the right thing. I was told triple walled is being phased out

 

[wmhgs]

I got it. I used supervent, its double walled with and insulated blanket in between. I was told theyre getting away from the triple walled and going to this. supervent is not only more affordable but rated to a higher temperature than most of the others. I installed 12' of pipe, all the clamps brackets etc & a foot through the wall. I used a regular rain cap for temporary so i could watch what happens. It draws great but sadly after one night I can see the insinde of the cap is caked with a creosote film. I have good wood, I just dont know ...

 

[begreen]

It sounds like there are two 90 deg turns in the smoke path before going up the chimney. That effectively is removing 6ft of chimney height. Then add the rise from the stove to the thimble. If it is 3ft you are working with about 9ft total effective chimney. A modern stove typically needs 15ft minimum.

 

[wmhgs]

Wow! You guys are definitely knowledgeable. I thought I was just going to be seen as complaining. When I removed the old stuff my bird guard was caked with creosote almost shut. I'm sure that's why it wasn't drawing but that only happened the last couple times I used It. The new pipe draws well, for now, but has that textured layer of creosote on the underside of the rain gaurd. Do you think extending the pipe will help eliminate the creosote as well as better the draw?

 

[Spletz]

EPA stoves are either catalytic in nature (they use a catalyst like your car to help burn up and get extra heat from your wasted heat 'smoke') or have secondary burn technology with a baffle board in the top of the stove and air inlets up there as well that inject air up at the top of the burn chamber.

For a cabin with infrequent use, I'd avoid a catalytic stove.

As for sealing things up,,,,,, With a cabin, go for the new stove first and see how things go. With a small space, often several or many people there, many times drinks consumed, having a place too tight where there is a vessel inside consuming oxygen, etc,,,, being a little loose ain't bad here so long as you aren't waking up with frost in your hair

Man well put. Small area, varying ages and hunting interests and drinking habits have made the age old fight of upper bunk/lower bunk chaotic. I hunt with a couple of brothers who see 30 deg as -40 and +55 respectively. A bit of draft, even a good amount of draft a savior.

All of us need keep in mind smoke detectors and CO2 detectors in our hunting cabins, regardless of how remote.

 

[firefighterjake]

CO detectors aren't a bad idea either.

 

[wmhgs]

Co detector, great idea! Does anyone have any thoughts on my last post abt extending the pipe helping with creosote?
Id hate to see my new pipe covered in creosote. I cant believe there appeared to be a thin layer under the rain cap already.
Im gonna put 6' of single wall on the top & run it a couple hrs. If all looks well ill buy another 6' of supervent