Ideal Steel Soapstone Liner Option. How Will This Affect It's Performance?

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Yes, ash is a good insulator. There are reports of coals staying hot in the ash can a couple days after a stove cleaning.
 
Admittedly there was a good bed of ash.
 
I am going for the works for a couple of reasons:

1 - I get the design I want on my stove (they are working on it as we speak!!!)
2 - I get some options that I want (like the andirons and the ash pan)
3 - The price cut you get for ordering the works basically makes the other stuff that I don't care about (like the soapstone liner) free.

Same here, I told Jamie the stuff we wanted and it came out higher than the works and we didn't want the andirons or trivets, made more sense to just get the works.
I suppose if you didn't want any options you get a good deal, otherwise you might as well get everything.
 
How do stoves like this work with less than ideal wood? In other words, will the cat light off and work if the wood is over 20% moisture? My goal is to get 3 years out, but right now I'm struggling to make 2.
 
I've been using wood that is c/s/s 10 months. It gets stacked in a sunny and windy area and usually that dries it pretty quick. This past summer was rainy and wet so not great for drying. Anyway, it works fine in the IS and WS told me that I have been burning clean after inspecting it.
 
Slower to heat up, slower to cool down. At least that's what Mr Newton and his laws of thermodynamics would say.
In the mean time more heat goes up the flue in my opinion.
You want fast heat transfer. Forget storing it in a stove.
 
Doesn't that happen for the first 20 minutes or so with the bypass wide open while waiting for the stove get up to cat temp?
 
Look people if you started a open fire in your living room you would get heat really fast...course it would prolly kill you.
So we put it in a box and add a flue..great it works and we live on but now we are losing heat up the flue.
My thought is whatever box transfers the heat fastest to the room is the winner. I bet a glass box would win ?
I dunno but the more you insulate it the less heat that would transfer before heading up the flue..sounds reasonable right?
Now making the exhaust cleaner is another story.
 
Doesn't that happen for the first 20 minutes or so with the bypass wide open while waiting for the stove get up to cat temp?
I close my by-pass right away but my wood is pretty dry.
 
In the mean time more heat goes up the flue in my opinion.
You want fast heat transfer. Forget storing it in a stove.

That does not have to be true. For sure more heat will go up the chimney if some do like we've seen here; that is, leave the draft full open until the stove top reaches x degrees. However, there is not need to waste that heat because the stove will warm quicker if the draft is not full open. Good to have it full open to get the fire started but then cutting it to at least 50% makes a huge difference in how quickly the stove will heat up.
 
I close my by-pass right away but my wood is pretty dry.

And if you do that, you are not losing heat up the chimney. Not a great thing for the cat but if it works for you, go for it. No need to continue to attempt to bash a soapstone stove though.
 
And if you do that, you are not losing heat up the chimney. Not a great thing for the cat but if it works for you, go for it. No need to continue to attempt to bash a soapstone stove though.
Not bashing...it is what it is.
Could be a hard pill for some to swallow though.
I will say they do look nice.

Any time you make a stove thicker due to stone or steel or whatever it will slow the heat transfer rate down,that is a fact.
The storage statements are nonsense.
 
Of course it is all nonsense....to some.

Sorry HotCoals, but your posts betray your feelings. Before you answer, know this is my last post about it as I have no need to start arguments.
 
Of course it is all nonsense....to some.

Sorry HotCoals, but your posts betray your feelings. Before you answer, know this is my last post about it as I have no need to start arguments.
I guess the pill is hard to swallow for you also.

Look they look very nice..way better then my black box.
Another thing that is true that all else being the same a thicker stove because of steel ,soapstone or whatever will contain the heat in the box better for a cleaner burn so to speak by keeping temps up.
 
In the mean time more heat goes up the flue in my opinion.

Full disclosure: I'm no fan of soapstone. I think it's ugly and it's thermal benefits are over-rated.

However, opinions aside, no more heat goes up the flue than with any other stove. For more heat to be going up the flue the soapstone would have to act as insulation. Are you suggesting that the soapstone insulates the stove?
 
Full disclosure: I'm no fan of soapstone. I think it's ugly and it's thermal benefits are over-rated.

However, opinions aside, no more heat goes up the flue than with any other stove. For more heat to be going up the flue the soapstone would have to act as insulation. Are you suggesting that the soapstone insulates the stove?
Yep.
Transfer rate is slowed so more heat does go up the flue.
Does not matter if it's soapstone, thicker steel or whatever.
Because of more insulation more heat stays in the box..that extra heat makes a bigger temp differential between the stove box and the outside air temp..so the draft is greater because of it.
It's science..lol.
 
Or it is going into the stone instead of up the flue.
 
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Yep.
Transfer rate is slowed so more heat does go up the flue.
Does not matter if it's soapstone, thicker steel or whatever.
Because of more insulation more heat stays in the box..that extra heat makes a bigger temp differential between the stove box and the outside air temp..so the draft is greater because of it.
It's science..lol.

Yeah, with that logic putting a waterjacket around my stove would increase the heat that goes up the flue. As with water, soapstone (or steel) is not an insulating material. If your point would be correct, the cat in a Woodstock would be at temp faster than in a BK; I would need to see that to believe it.
 
Or it is going into the stone instead of up the flue.
Some of it will but as you go over peak temp it will lose some of that heat up the flue also.
The faster you can transfer heat to the room from the box the more efficient the stove is at providing heat.
 
Says the guy with a 1,200 degree cat chamber when the stove body is only at 400. ;lol
 
Yeah, with that logic putting a waterjacket around my stove would increase the heat that goes up the flue. As with water, soapstone (or steel) is not an insulating material. If your point would be correct, the cat in a Woodstock would be at temp faster than in a BK; I would need to see that to believe it.
Now you're talking a diff deal. The temp diff of the cold water would help pull more heat from the stove.
It's all about temp differential.
 
Now you're talking a diff deal. The temp diff of the cold water would help pull more heat from the stove.
It's all about temp differential.

Not at all. That rock is gonna soak heat just like the water. A temp differential thing Dr. Heat.
 
Sooooo...Now I'm even more confused what to do haha. Thanks guys :P. In all seriousness do you think lining the inside with soapstone is a bad idea?

My theory is that it will probably aid the cat and secondary air because it is insulating the firebox to some degree. I realize heating the soapstone will take longer, but once its up to temp it should radiate and insulate.
 
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