I need a new fan

['bert]

Here are the requested additional pictures. Thanks to all for your input.

Don

 

[begreen]

It looks like the blower wheel width is about 9+ inches. If so, see how the specs for this one compare:

(broken link removed)

or this one (there has to be something wrong with the price listed for this one. It appears to be on clearance, while supplies last.)
(broken link removed)

 

[PeteD]

Searches are ephemeral and will time out. This product may be close. Without the actual specs I'm just guessing though.

(broken link removed)
(broken link removed)

I have looked at these before - is the 104 F inlet temperature sufficient? I know cool air gets sucked in the bottom, but what if the fan is not on?

Sure beats the factory blower on price.

BTW, I paid $270 US for my UZY5 in July, before I realized the fan just sits in the bottom.

Pete

 

[begreen]

I used one of these on an old Majestic dragon stove. The intake temp is fine. AFAIK, there is nothing especially hi-temp about these transflow blowers.

 

[begreen]

I'm not positively sure, but this appears to a possible OEM replacement unit for the 18L4601. It has a lower RPM motor, but slightly wider.

http://americanhvacparts.com/Mercha...n=PROD&Product_Code=MOT18L46A&Category;_Code=

 

['bert]

It does look like it, would the 2/3 less RPM make a difference? I would think much less air movement. Some of the Grainger ones seem to be very close. We have Grainger in Canada, but here it is known as Acklands / Grainger. I would think they have access to many of the same products. I may try to call them tomorrow if time permits.

 

['bert]

Looked into buying the one from Americahvacparts.com, problem shipping would be $ 178.00 almost as much as the blower. Perhaps they do not find it worth the hassle of shipping into Canada.

 

[raybonz]

It does look like it, would the 2/3 less RPM make a difference? I would think much less air movement. Some of the Grainger ones seem to be very close. We have Grainger in Canada, but here it is known as Acklands / Grainger. I would think they have access to many of the same products. I may try to call them tomorrow if time permits.

Running a bit slower would promote better heat transfer to the air exiting the blower.. Personally I think those fans are expensive considering what they do.. I would definately be looking for a cheaper alternative using run of the mill repairable parts.. That shaded pole open frame design motor they use is very low budget for such an expensive blower! From what your saying though the motor is not the problem (yet) instead it's the bushing on the far fan end correct?.. I have worked on industrial controls for over 25 yrs. and have seen similar squirrel cage blowers used to cool drives and they tend to fall apart.. It would be great if you could modify your setup using 1 or 2 boxer fans or some other mainstream motor which are inexpensive and readily available and made by many manufacturers (all metal fans preferred)..

Good Luck,
Ray

 

[raybonz]

Searches are ephemeral and will time out. This product may be close. Without the actual specs I'm just guessing though.

(broken link removed)
(broken link removed)

"ephemeral" adjective, definition: Lasting a very short time. LOL had to look that one up.. That goes down as todays word for me

Ray

 

[Adios Pantalones]

It does look like it, would the 2/3 less RPM make a difference? I would think much less air movement. Some of the Grainger ones seem to be very close. We have Grainger in Canada, but here it is known as Acklands / Grainger. I would think they have access to many of the same products. I may try to call them tomorrow if time permits.

Running a bit slower would promote better heat transfer to the air exiting the blower.. Personally I think those fans are expensive considering what they do.. I would definately be looking for a cheaper alternative using run of the mill repairable parts.. That shaded pole open frame design motor they use is very low budget for such an expensive blower! From what your saying though the motor is not the problem (yet) instead it's the bushing on the far fan end correct?.. I have worked on industrial controls for over 25 yrs. and have seen similar squirrel cage blowers used to cool drives and they tend to fall apart.. It would be great if you could modify your setup using 1 or 2 boxer fans or some other mainstream motor which are inexpensive and readily available and made by many manufacturers (all metal fans preferred)..

Good Luck,
Ray

Not correct. Faster air will move the heat to the room better. The air coming out of the blower will be warmer if it's slower, but more heat in total will be moved if the air is faster. (heat is transferred to the blower air because of a difference in temperature, so that more cooler air will better pick up heat. The Reynolds number is easier overcome with faster air around bends in the unit as well, so that there is better mixing and less boundary effect with faster air) Further, faster air will better mix with the room air.

That's what happens to scientists when they're unemployed- they solve heat flow and chemistry problems for free

edit: the blower on my insert was making a gawd awful noise the other day- I cleaned out a surprising amount of junk, poured in 3in1 oil, and it quieted down quite a bit. Still a bit of noise above the sound it usta make. I might pull it apart and see if there's a bearing that I can replace with a hardware store purchase- was quoted $120 for the motor by a stove shop.

 

[Jags]

Leave it to an out of work scientist to make sense of heat transfer. :lol:

 

[raybonz]

It does look like it, would the 2/3 less RPM make a difference? I would think much less air movement. Some of the Grainger ones seem to be very close. We have Grainger in Canada, but here it is known as Acklands / Grainger. I would think they have access to many of the same products. I may try to call them tomorrow if time permits.

Running a bit slower would promote better heat transfer to the air exiting the blower.. Personally I think those fans are expensive considering what they do.. I would definately be looking for a cheaper alternative using run of the mill repairable parts.. That shaded pole open frame design motor they use is very low budget for such an expensive blower! From what your saying though the motor is not the problem (yet) instead it's the bushing on the far fan end correct?.. I have worked on industrial controls for over 25 yrs. and have seen similar squirrel cage blowers used to cool drives and they tend to fall apart.. It would be great if you could modify your setup using 1 or 2 boxer fans or some other mainstream motor which are inexpensive and readily available and made by many manufacturers (all metal fans preferred)..

Good Luck,
Ray

Not correct. Faster air will move the heat to the room better. The air coming out of the blower will be warmer if it's slower, but more heat in total will be moved if the air is faster. (heat is transferred to the blower air because of a difference in temperature, so that more cooler air will better pick up heat. The Reynolds number is easier overcome with faster air around bends in the unit as well, so that there is better mixing and less boundary effect with faster air) Further, faster air will better mix with the room air.

That's what happens to scientists when they're unemployed- they solve heat flow and chemistry problems for free

edit: the blower on my insert was making a gawd awful noise the other day- I cleaned out a surprising amount of junk, poured in 3in1 oil, and it quieted down quite a bit. Still a bit of noise above the sound it usta make. I might pull it apart and see if there's a bearing that I can replace with a hardware store purchase- was quoted $120 for the motor by a stove shop.

What I am saying is the heat transferred will be hotter but with less volume.. I do understand what you're saying though..

About your noisy blower, usually once it gets noisy you're too late as the damage is done .. You quiet it down some but it will be short lived.. I make it a habit to disassmble my blower clean out the dust etc. and lube it when I clean my chimney that way I don't forget..BTW I like your avatar.. The "happy trees" man sadly has passed away but his work lives on.. All my kids loved his show and one of my daughters has a T-shirt with his picture on it and the saying "I see happy trees" under it..

Ray

 

[Adios Pantalones]

It does look like it, would the 2/3 less RPM make a difference? I would think much less air movement. Some of the Grainger ones seem to be very close. We have Grainger in Canada, but here it is known as Acklands / Grainger. I would think they have access to many of the same products. I may try to call them tomorrow if time permits.

Running a bit slower would promote better heat transfer to the air exiting the blower.. Personally I think those fans are expensive considering what they do.. I would definately be looking for a cheaper alternative using run of the mill repairable parts.. That shaded pole open frame design motor they use is very low budget for such an expensive blower! From what your saying though the motor is not the problem (yet) instead it's the bushing on the far fan end correct?.. I have worked on industrial controls for over 25 yrs. and have seen similar squirrel cage blowers used to cool drives and they tend to fall apart.. It would be great if you could modify your setup using 1 or 2 boxer fans or some other mainstream motor which are inexpensive and readily available and made by many manufacturers (all metal fans preferred)..

Good Luck,
Ray

Not correct. Faster air will move the heat to the room better. The air coming out of the blower will be warmer if it's slower, but more heat in total will be moved if the air is faster. (heat is transferred to the blower air because of a difference in temperature, so that more cooler air will better pick up heat. The Reynolds number is easier overcome with faster air around bends in the unit as well, so that there is better mixing and less boundary effect with faster air) Further, faster air will better mix with the room air.

That's what happens to scientists when they're unemployed- they solve heat flow and chemistry problems for free

edit: the blower on my insert was making a gawd awful noise the other day- I cleaned out a surprising amount of junk, poured in 3in1 oil, and it quieted down quite a bit. Still a bit of noise above the sound it usta make. I might pull it apart and see if there's a bearing that I can replace with a hardware store purchase- was quoted $120 for the motor by a stove shop.

What I am saying is the heat transferred will be hotter but with less volume.. I do understand what you're saying though..

About your noisy blower, usually once it gets noisy you're too late as the damage is done .. You quiet it down some but it will be short lived.. I make it a habit to disassmble my blower clean out the dust etc. and lube it when I clean my chimney that way I don't forget..BTW I like your avatar.. The "happy trees" man sadly has passed away but his work lives on.. All my kids loved his show and one of my daughters has a T-shirt with his picture on it and the saying "I see happy trees" under it..

Ray

right- but less heat total is transfered from the stove to the room, which is the real problem.

I know it won't last- but being unemployed- I'll beat that mutha until it stops. Been going on a week since I lubed it, and I'm surprised and hppy to say it's not changed.

LOL- Bob Ross- a good argument for legalizing pot?

 

[raybonz]

It does look like it, would the 2/3 less RPM make a difference? I would think much less air movement. Some of the Grainger ones seem to be very close. We have Grainger in Canada, but here it is known as Acklands / Grainger. I would think they have access to many of the same products. I may try to call them tomorrow if time permits.

Running a bit slower would promote better heat transfer to the air exiting the blower.. Personally I think those fans are expensive considering what they do.. I would definately be looking for a cheaper alternative using run of the mill repairable parts.. That shaded pole open frame design motor they use is very low budget for such an expensive blower! From what your saying though the motor is not the problem (yet) instead it's the bushing on the far fan end correct?.. I have worked on industrial controls for over 25 yrs. and have seen similar squirrel cage blowers used to cool drives and they tend to fall apart.. It would be great if you could modify your setup using 1 or 2 boxer fans or some other mainstream motor which are inexpensive and readily available and made by many manufacturers (all metal fans preferred)..

Good Luck,
Ray

Not correct. Faster air will move the heat to the room better. The air coming out of the blower will be warmer if it's slower, but more heat in total will be moved if the air is faster. (heat is transferred to the blower air because of a difference in temperature, so that more cooler air will better pick up heat. The Reynolds number is easier overcome with faster air around bends in the unit as well, so that there is better mixing and less boundary effect with faster air) Further, faster air will better mix with the room air.

That's what happens to scientists when they're unemployed- they solve heat flow and chemistry problems for free

edit: the blower on my insert was making a gawd awful noise the other day- I cleaned out a surprising amount of junk, poured in 3in1 oil, and it quieted down quite a bit. Still a bit of noise above the sound it usta make. I might pull it apart and see if there's a bearing that I can replace with a hardware store purchase- was quoted $120 for the motor by a stove shop.

What I am saying is the heat transferred will be hotter but with less volume.. I do understand what you're saying though..

About your noisy blower, usually once it gets noisy you're too late as the damage is done .. You quiet it down some but it will be short lived.. I make it a habit to disassmble my blower clean out the dust etc. and lube it when I clean my chimney that way I don't forget..BTW I like your avatar.. The "happy trees" man sadly has passed away but his work lives on.. All my kids loved his show and one of my daughters has a T-shirt with his picture on it and the saying "I see happy trees" under it..

Ray

right- but less heat total is transfered from the stove to the room, which is the real problem.

I know it won't last- but being unemployed- I'll beat that mutha until it stops. Been going on a week since I lubed it, and I'm surprised and hppy to say it's not changed.

LOL- Bob Ross- a good argument for legalizing pot?

I don't smoke it but I don't care about those who do unless they drive when they do it.. Mass. as you know has decriminalized it unless you have a larger amount or sell it.. How long have you been unemployed? I hope you can land some work in the near future!

Ray

 

[Islander08]

I think that blower is made by Fasco.

I've never bought from them, but Electric Motor Warehouse has what they claim to be replacement blowers(middle of page) for the UZY3 for much cheaper...also a UZY4 closer to the bottom.

http://www.electricmotorwarehouse.com/fireplace.htm

That doesn't look like the one in the picture. Are you sure its original?

My BIS has a UZY6 and it looks about the same as your pictures.

Careful on the inlet temp...104 deg doesn't sound very high for sitting under a firebox. Its hot under there...

 

['bert]

Not really hot under the firebox of my BIS, I had my hands under there yesterday trying to rig up some sort of temp fans. Not hot unless you touch the steel above. But. working on a hot stove does get your forehead hot as hell while your laying there try to work on it.

I have tried to oil the bushings with some 30 weight oil and some synthetic that I had here. Same result each time, quite at first but after a hour or so they begin to rattle and slow down. Last night it even came to a stop. Will move today, but I think I need to consider getting a new blower.



The one in the picture may not be the original UYZ3 as the fan that the dealer supplied with the unit crapped out 2 years ago. At the time I attributed it to the fact that I was running the fan with a dimmer/ fan control. But it failed in the same way as the current one - got noisy and quit working. So not sure if the old control had anything to do with the failure of the old unit. Maybe these things just fail after 2 years of high usage. We use our BIS allot!

thanks for the link, I will be checking it out this week (along with some others) so that I can get back to my happy place (on the sofa in front of the BIS).

 

[begreen]

Did you try drilling an oil hole over the shaft bearing block? That is where the oil must get if it's to be effective. It could be that the motor is too far gone, but if it's going to tossed there's nothing to lose by trying.