Advice needed, go new or fix what I have

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Also, I would keep the fans off when you are starting the insert; no hot air available yet to blow into the room. Let it heat up a bit before switching the fans on.
 
Chimney fans are a hassle I think. They can break, get buildup, and should not be needed.

Don't do anything like that for now. Just see how it goes.

If the fire starts well, I would leave the door open a little longer; evidently you had draft at the very start. Then when you closed the door it went wrong. Leaving the door open a minute or two longer will help get the air flowing better I think
Yea I think you’re right. I think if I left the door open longer I would have been better off. I rushed it

thank you all so much for the advice. I still have to deal with the carbon monoxide issue from the additional fan behind the unit. I’ll double check the chimney connections and report back. I just think that fan is too strong because it only happened at night after the fire went out. I tried lowering the speed at night and had no issues with CO after.

Thank you all again.
 
I was just trying to get it started. So I had 2 of those fire starter squares in and the fire started fast I closed the door and latched it a little till it really got going but then the smoke started pushing out not up the chimney. I tried to extinguish it but that just made the smoke worse.
Are you sure this was a backdraft, or wa it a backpuff instead? The latter is common with poorly seasoned wood. It happens when a fire is smoldering badly and then a flame appears that ignites a firebox full of unburnt wood gas. What ensues is a mini-explosion that will push smoke out of every orifice.
When you check the the wood are you getting an ax and resplitting the wood to check the inside of it? If not you are not getting an accurate reading. The outside of the wood showing 16-20% means your wood is likely well over 25%.
This definitely should be taken into account. Many people test the firewood for moisture content incorrectly. I have seen this often including with firewood sellers. The wood must be resplit first, then tested in the middle of the face of the freshly exposed wood.
 
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Are you sure this was a backdraft, or wa it a backpuff instead? The latter is common with poorly seasoned wood. It happens when a fire is smoldering badly and then a flame appears that ignites a firebox full of unburnt wood gas. What ensues is a mini-explosion that will push smoke out of every orifice.

This definitely should be taken into account. Many people test the firewood for moisture content incorrectly. I have seen this often including with firewood sellers. The wood must be resplit first, then tested in the middle of the face of the freshly exposed wood.
I think it was backdraft, but I could be wrong.
Would you say this is the same issue for pinless meters? When I test with the pins from the outside of the wood it’s higher than when I test pinless. I tried to split it and test with pins it’s normally somewhere between. That’s why I’ve been trying for 16 or less.

I’ll try splitting a couple more pieces and try double checking.
 
My understanding is that pinless meters only work to a fairly shallow depth. Maybe .75". Grab a few of the thickest splits on the wood pile from random locations, split in half, and retest using the pin meter.

If you have some 2x4 scraps, try starting a fire with them to see if it behaves much better.
 
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I think it was backdraft, but I could be wrong.
It the draft is poor then it could be due to one or more factors.

1) a cold, uninsulated liner.
2) negative pressure in the fireplace room. This can happen if there is a lot of air leaking on the upper floors. Leaky or open windows there or a leaky attic door. As a test, open up a window close to the stove an inch and see if the fire perks up.
3) a gap or obstruction in the liner. This could be due to a disconnect or gap at the flue collar, a tear or crimp in the liner, a coupling that has come apart.
4) competing appliances (exhaust fans typically) or an imbalanced HRV system
5) mild outside temps (50º or above)
6) geographic location can exacerbate this