I bought a MS290 and I don't care who knows it!

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You got yourself a great saw. I'm cutting up a giant walnut tree with mine tomorrow.
 
I love my 290, has been great, never any problems caused by the saw (there was the one problem when I dropped a tree on it, but can't really blame the saw for that). For whatever reason, there are some 290 haters out there, who think everyone needs to know how bad a 290 is in their opinion. I cut with a guy that has 2 husky's of about the same cc as my 290 and 270, and his saws are not better than mine, maybe equal, although mine start easier than his.

Just because I am always looking to tinker, I am thinking of a muffler mod, but can't figure out how to do it for the 290 (most of the instructions I have seen for mods are for bigger saws).
 
mike1234 said:
I love my 290, has been great, never any problems caused by the saw (there was the one problem when I dropped a tree on it, but can't really blame the saw for that). For whatever reason, there are some 290 haters out there, who think everyone needs to know how bad a 290 is in their opinion. I cut with a guy that has 2 husky's of about the same cc as my 290 and 270, and his saws are not better than mine, maybe equal, although mine start easier than his.

Just because I am always looking to tinker, I am thinking of a muffler mod, but can't figure out how to do it for the 290 (most of the instructions I have seen for mods are for bigger saws).

The muffler mod is very simple. Pull off the muffler and in the recessed area above the slots drill 4 3/8" holes. Possible make the 2 slots into one slot with a die grinder or 1 hole between them. Wash out all of the metal debris from the drilling. Take the deflector shield and open it up. Direct the extra airflow in whatever direction you chose. I would advise against directing it towards plastic. Put the whole assembly back together.

Take the limiter tabs off of the H/L adjustment screws. Careful when you do this or you'll have to get new ones from the dealer. About a $1 each. Fire up the saw and set the L jet so it idles well but doesn't spin the chain. Richen (CCW) the H jet until you hear a 4 stroke blubber at WOT. Put the saw in some wood and you shouldn't hear the 4 stroke. There should now be a good snap when going from idle to WOT.

Oh yeah, don't forget the hearing protection because you just added probably another 10-15 decibles to the exhaust note of your saw.
 
I'm going to take a look at the 290 later today to see if can walk through what you are describing. I am pretty handy, but have not messed with the saw in this way before.
My 270 is still under warranty, so don't want to mess with it, but according to the sales person, it can be moded too, anyway he says it has all the necessary adjustments. So when that warranty runs out, I'll do that one too.
Thanks for describing it, I may be back asking for more info.
 
The Muffler part looks easy enough. But what are the limiter tabs? Do I just unscrew the adjustment screws all the way out and then do something. Just don't want to do anything there that could hurt the saw.

aandabooks said:
mike1234 said:
I love my 290, has been great, never any problems caused by the saw (there was the one problem when I dropped a tree on it, but can't really blame the saw for that). For whatever reason, there are some 290 haters out there, who think everyone needs to know how bad a 290 is in their opinion. I cut with a guy that has 2 husky's of about the same cc as my 290 and 270, and his saws are not better than mine, maybe equal, although mine start easier than his.

Just because I am always looking to tinker, I am thinking of a muffler mod, but can't figure out how to do it for the 290 (most of the instructions I have seen for mods are for bigger saws).

The muffler mod is very simple. Pull off the muffler and in the recessed area above the slots drill 4 3/8" holes. Possible make the 2 slots into one slot with a die grinder or 1 hole between them. Wash out all of the metal debris from the drilling. Take the deflector shield and open it up. Direct the extra airflow in whatever direction you chose. I would advise against directing it towards plastic. Put the whole assembly back together.

Take the limiter tabs off of the H/L adjustment screws. Careful when you do this or you'll have to get new ones from the dealer. About a $1 each. Fire up the saw and set the L jet so it idles well but doesn't spin the chain. Richen (CCW) the H jet until you hear a 4 stroke blubber at WOT. Put the saw in some wood and you shouldn't hear the 4 stroke. There should now be a good snap when going from idle to WOT.

Oh yeah, don't forget the hearing protection because you just added probably another 10-15 decibles to the exhaust note of your saw.
 
Mike, I am thinking of modding my 029, can you post pics of before and after? Let me know how yours went...
 
They are covered by the rubber guide on the right hand side of the saw. They are orange in color and are plastic. They cover the actual adjustment screws and limit how rich you can make your saw. The factory adjustment is on the side of the cover. Just note what it is. Screw a drywall screw into the cap and align the tabs then gently pull of the tabs. You will now have the full range of adjustment. Most recommend putting the limiter caps back on after adjustment. They help prevent the screws from backing themselves out while running the saw.

mike1234 said:
The Muffler part looks easy enough. But what are the limiter tabs? Do I just unscrew the adjustment screws all the way out and then do something. Just don't want to do anything there that could hurt the saw.

aandabooks said:
mike1234 said:
I love my 290, has been great, never any problems caused by the saw (there was the one problem when I dropped a tree on it, but can't really blame the saw for that). For whatever reason, there are some 290 haters out there, who think everyone needs to know how bad a 290 is in their opinion. I cut with a guy that has 2 husky's of about the same cc as my 290 and 270, and his saws are not better than mine, maybe equal, although mine start easier than his.

Just because I am always looking to tinker, I am thinking of a muffler mod, but can't figure out how to do it for the 290 (most of the instructions I have seen for mods are for bigger saws).

The muffler mod is very simple. Pull off the muffler and in the recessed area above the slots drill 4 3/8" holes. Possible make the 2 slots into one slot with a die grinder or 1 hole between them. Wash out all of the metal debris from the drilling. Take the deflector shield and open it up. Direct the extra airflow in whatever direction you chose. I would advise against directing it towards plastic. Put the whole assembly back together.

Take the limiter tabs off of the H/L adjustment screws. Careful when you do this or you'll have to get new ones from the dealer. About a $1 each. Fire up the saw and set the L jet so it idles well but doesn't spin the chain. Richen (CCW) the H jet until you hear a 4 stroke blubber at WOT. Put the saw in some wood and you shouldn't hear the 4 stroke. There should now be a good snap when going from idle to WOT.

Oh yeah, don't forget the hearing protection because you just added probably another 10-15 decibles to the exhaust note of your saw.
 
Makes sense. I took it all the way apart yesterday to see what you were talking about, but the limiters are hard to see, unless you know they are there.
I will post pics, but this is my first try, we need pics from pros!!
 
Got it moded, and it was relatively easy. Will post pics tomorrow when I get to the other computer. It is very straight forward, although pulling the little covers off the idle screws is a bit tricky, would of been nice have seen it done. And I am not sure that when I put them back on that they will hold the screws in place, hard to tell. if they move, and if I can tell if they move, I can take it apart and adjust it pretty easy.

Also, it is hard to know if I am running it too lean. it smells too rich to me, and the sound is correct from what people have told me. But i am taking it to the shop tomorrow to see if they can tell me if I am too lean.

I made 2 cuts, in case I was running it too lean I did not want to hurt anything. WOW. Faster cut, and the blade never slowed down. It had way more power, and I have never complained about the power it had to start with. But the NOISE!!! Needed my ear protection bad. If I was cutting in town, I WOULD NOT DO THIS, based on the noise. In the country and in the woods, it still might be annoying to those around me, I'll have to see.

I guess one of the good things on a mod like this is that if you hate it, it costs you the amount for a new muffler, and you are back to original.
 
mike1234 said:
Also, it is hard to know if I am running it too lean...
I presume you mean the Hi jet. A lean saw rev's too high with no load. I set it rich enough to run rough and it only smooths out when I put it under load.

A Lo jet set too lean will bog the saw when you squeeze the trigger.
 
That is good to know, my super farm boss will get the mod after the pics are posted. Mike1234, if you cut can you post if there is a big difference. What I read says 10% more HP, and more importantly more chain speed...
 
Glad to hear that you got it done. What your looking for is a 4-stroking sound with no load and when you put it in the wood it will smooth out. You want to get that low end set so there is no hesitation when you pull the trigger. But you don't want the chain to creep on you.

The biggest difference that you should notice is the ability to use more pressure in the cut and not bog the saw. Getting back the power the EPA robbed is the biggest advantage. Plus the saw is going to run cooler and therefore it should lengthen the life of the saw.
 
There are only 3 pics worth viewing that I took. (broken link removed to http://picasaweb.google.com/Michael.Birney)

The muffler mod is very self explanatory.
Take the 3 nuts off, pull the muffler, drill the holes, modify the exhaust cover (I just drilled it out bigger, if you weld, you could cut a bigger hole and weld a small elbow to it).
Wash it all out, put it back together. Time -15 minutes.

The adjustment mod is a little more complicated, instructions on pic. I think, f you totally screwed this part up, you could replace all parts for less than 10.00. Time -30 minutes because I didn't know what I was doing. I wish I would have taken more pics of this process, I was just concentrating on the process and forgot.

My cost 6.50 - for the muffler bolt and nut that I cross threaded putting it back together when I just took it apart to look at it the day before I worked on it.
 
The day that this saw goes out of warranty, I will be pulling the parts and modding it. I can't stand to leave anything alone! :-P

Thanks for the pictures Mike. Nice looking goldens also. I have a 2-1/2 year old male at home. I have to get him in to the vet for his shots in the next few weeks and I'll be interested to see what he weighs now. I had him fixed at around 18 months and he was 88lbs. at that point.
 
Took it to the dealer (a friend) he ran it and said it is still a little lean, but not bad. So have to make it a little more rich on the high side. Just need to learn to listen for that rumble I guess.
Looking forward to doing some cutting with it, but it rained so much at the beginning of the week all my tree cutting areas are deep with mud. Anyone have a tree I can cut down? :)
 
Might need to open that deflector up just a bit more. That is basically what my muffler now looks like. I did put two holes on the other side of the deflector. Carb setting was about a 1/4 turn CCW past factory. Every saw is different. Once you get it dialed in, I think you're going to be happy with the results.
 
How big are the holes that you made on the other side of the deflector?

aandabooks said:
Might need to open that deflector up just a bit more. That is basically what my muffler now looks like. I did put two holes on the other side of the deflector. Carb setting was about a 1/4 turn CCW past factory. Every saw is different. Once you get it dialed in, I think you're going to be happy with the results.
 
2 3/8 joined together. Basically another hole about the same as the one you have on the other side of the deflector. Spark arrest screen is still in place.
 
I am dieing for a pic %-P
 
The manual states that the saw doesn't reach full power until after a few tanks of gas. I ran through two tanks last night cleaning up tops, limbs, and some stumps. Maybe it's just in my head, but I feel like it was definitely running better by the end of the night.
 
Its hard to remember but I think after 5 or 6 mine woke up. It climbed to peak rpm faster and had more power. May have been sooner but I think thats when I noticed it...
 
I did have to turn the low jet up a little bit. It wanted to die at idle and the off-idle throttle made it bog. Now it ramps up nice and quick.
 
I have had my 029 with 20" bar since new in 1996. It seems to have enough power for me. It always starts easily with nothing but occasional cleaning and sharpening over the years. I do have to add that it probably runs less than 20 hours per year. My only complaint is that it is a little heavy. I just bought a used MS180 a few weeks ago for $100. I agree that these 2 saws are a great setup. The 180 is nice and light and the 029 will tackle just about anything as long as I keep the chain sharp and the air cleaner clean.
 
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