Tools that have more than one use are always the best...I have a few of those lying around, if you know what I mean
old Shindaiwa saw running rough
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Thanks @qwee I figured it out. The inside-the-tank piece definitely inserts thru the hole in the top of the fuel tank. To do this, you have to remove the fuel tank, but that is easy once you've removed the big cover with the starter mechanism and all (I've removed that cover probably half a dozen times, now and I'm getting pretty good at it ). And you have to attach the fuel filter after you get it in there.
So I replaced the inside-the-tank piece with NOS. I don't have replacement for the part that leads from fuel tank to carburetor. But BOTH pieces looked just fine to me. So I'm confused. Maybe it's fixed. Have to wait a few hours or until tomorrow to tell for sure.
). And you have to attach the fuel filter after you get it in there.So I replaced the inside-the-tank piece with NOS. I don't have replacement for the part that leads from fuel tank to carburetor. But BOTH pieces looked just fine to me. So I'm confused. Maybe it's fixed. Have to wait a few hours or until tomorrow to tell for sure.
Dieselhead
Minister of Fire
Hopefully nos does not bite you in the behind. Older rubber isn’t designed for today’s fuels and depending on how long it’s been sitting in someone’s shelf the rubber may have already started to degrade significantly. Keep us updated!
Seems like it'd be possible to jury-rig this if worse came to worse. It's just a little hose going from a barb fitting on the carb to the fuel filter inside the tank. The only trick is sealing where it passes thru the hole in the top of the fuel tank.
Argh, so trying to start today (after replacing fuel line yesterday), same behavior: 20+ pulls to start, then runs fine. I'm mystified.
Ugg Sounds just like my old small poulan. They don't call it puuuullin for nothing.
It also vibrated like crazy and made your hands numb after 5-10 minutes.
I hated that little saw and was so happy when i finally gave up on it and got a good used stihl ms250 to replace it.
Best $200 i've ever spent. Saw was and still is in like new condition.
Man, I'm just at wit's end. Took probably 50 pulls to start it today and then it ran like a champ. Gotta be fuel, right ? I just don't think the fuel line is bad. Somehow the fuel filter is letting fuel drain back into the tank, bad one-way valve ? Maybe the pump diaphragm is somehow not doing its job (too stiff ?) ? An issue with the impulse pipe (looked ok to me) ? It was a new carb; but who knows how old it really is. I think I can just buy a replacement diaphragm ...
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yeah that could be it, and those impulse lines can get cracks that you can hardly see.
I never tried to fix the endless start pulling with the poulan because i hated the saw so much.
But have replaced impulse and fuel line on my stihl 029. That rubber material has a limited lifespan.
I never tried to fix the endless start pulling with the poulan because i hated the saw so much.
But have replaced impulse and fuel line on my stihl 029. That rubber material has a limited lifespan.
Double check that the fuel pump is directly against the carburetor body and the gasket is against the pump cover. Also check that the impulse hole is actually machined. I’ve seen that hole missing in both the body and the cover in new carbs from the factory.
Also look at the metering side for the same thing, but the gasket goes against the body and the metering diaphragm goes against the cover. The metering lever height should be adjusted to spec to keep the needle from hanging open.
Also look at the metering side for the same thing, but the gasket goes against the body and the metering diaphragm goes against the cover. The metering lever height should be adjusted to spec to keep the needle from hanging open.
That seems not at all unlikely, except ... if there's enough compression to give decent power once the thing is running, wouldn't there be enough for the fuel pump ? Also, this issue came on fairly abruptly.
I've seen old Chevy 350s that you could spin over by the fan and start. Compression is much easier to accomplish than vacuum
you could try adding a little fuel to the throat of the carb on a cold engine and see if it starts easier then. If so then I would look at the carb again. The pump flap should be able to prevent fuel from back bleeding out of the carb and into the fuel lines into the tank. But is has to be directly on the carburetor body and body to work. Carb > pump > gasket > cover
Funny, I tried that exact thing just today. And it didn't help. Maybe I overdid or underdid it though.
Rusty, just for grins, try opening the spark plug gap up about .005" and see if it helps any. I've always run plugs a little wider on the gap for a longer spark in everything. The longer spark helps in starting and WOT. Old school trick from my motocross days.
No major change.
Saw runs like a champ .. once it's started (and restarts easily if it's not been off too long). Oh well. Should get the diaphragm and impulse tube this week, I'll put those in.
If that doesn't fix it, maybe retrofit a priming bulb. The fuel line is accessible right near the air filter, should be easy to splice this in ... https://www.amazon.com/ZHRANXZ-5039...mall+engine+primer+bulb&qid=1741332064&sr=8-6
The 'H' screw they just want 1-1/4 turns from fully-clockwise, so I did that. Didn't do much to the 'L' screw. Wouldn't cause the incredibly difficult starting though, would it ? Here's the relevant manual info ...
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You have to tune the carburetor for weather conditions.
They are not set and forget.
Once you get to be able to set the carb by ear then you will always have a great running saw.
There are lots of good videos on setting the carb on you tube.
Basically, with a clean air filter and the saw warmed up...
Set your low speed adjustment to where the saw runs good, reset the idle so the chain stops turning
Then at WOT set the high speed to where the saw is 2 stroking , then try a cut it should clean up and run smooth.
Once the high speed is dialed in go back and check the low speed, then reset the idel again. Then double check the high speed.
At wide open throttle it should be burbling a bit till you start to cut, where it should stop the burble and run smooth. No burble at WOT means to lean.
It's like riding a bike once you know it you know it...
They are not set and forget.
Once you get to be able to set the carb by ear then you will always have a great running saw.
There are lots of good videos on setting the carb on you tube.
Basically, with a clean air filter and the saw warmed up...
Set your low speed adjustment to where the saw runs good, reset the idle so the chain stops turning
Then at WOT set the high speed to where the saw is 2 stroking , then try a cut it should clean up and run smooth.
Once the high speed is dialed in go back and check the low speed, then reset the idel again. Then double check the high speed.
At wide open throttle it should be burbling a bit till you start to cut, where it should stop the burble and run smooth. No burble at WOT means to lean.
It's like riding a bike once you know it you know it...
Ok, thanks for the good explanation. But this wouldn't be causing the really difficult starting, would it ? Especially since when warm the saw restarts on one pull.
EbS-P
Minister of Fire
Have you verified the choke (starting position setting ) is working?
Saws of that age are known to have issues with modern fuel (especially ethanol gas blends) attacking the rubber compnenets, especially the fuel lines. So as others have mentioned, it's defnitely worth checking that out thoroughly.
The description you gave of a bit of hesitation when going from idle to full speed is often indicative of the idle mixture being set just a bit too lean. That could also contribute to hard starting. I'd suggest trying enrichening the idle mixture just a hair by turning the idle mixture screw about 1/8 turn counter-clockwise and see if that helps. If that helps a bit but does not fully correct the problem, try another 1/8 turn. Keep track of where you started, so if this doesn't take care of the problem, you can go back to your original settings.
If you end up with the idle speed too rich, one symptom of that is that the saw floods while idling. The first place you'll see this is if you leave the saw idling for a bit, then pick it up, it stalls just from the motion of picking it up (the extra gas pooling in the saw shifts, flooding it out.)
For some good help setting the mixtures on a chainsaw, try this Youtube video:
Also see the page from Madsen's. (you'll need some good speakers or quality headphones to hear the "tune by ear part properly)
www.madsens1.com
I cant find much for specs on the Shindawa 415. I know it was a 39.4 cc saw. Powerhead-only weight was 11.7 lbs. I have been unable to find HP specs, but I'd bet it was under 2 HP.
If you end up replacing it, you mentioned being partial to Husqvarna. The Husqvarna 550XP Mark II is a pro-level saw design 50 cc, same weight as your Shindaiwa 415, but rated at 4 HP. The 550 will absolutely run rings around the 415. List price is around $550. You do want to be sure to get the Mark II version, as that incorporates some needed improvements over the originl version.
If the 550XP is too steep for your needs, check out the Husqvarna 450. It's one of their mid-level "Farm & Ranch" saws. Not buit quite as tough as the 550XP, but still has a decent reputation: 50cc, 3.2 HP, weighs 11.3 lbs.
As others have mentioned, Echo saws also have a good reputation, and can often be found at relatively good prices. I'm not as familiar with that line, however.
Unless you are able to do your own maintenance, I'd be paying more attention to finding a good servicing dealer in your area for either Husqvarna, Stihl, or Echo. A good dealer with a skilled chainsaw mechanic (who can do more than swap the spark plug and replace the filters or fuels lines) can be more important than the brand. I take care of my saws, so I've rarely had to bring them in for service, but it's nice to know it's available if needed.
The size saw you seem to be considering is also well covered by a number of battery-operated models. There are a lot of battery saws out there that will keep up with 40 or 50 cc gas saws, and a couple that will match a 60 cc saw.
The description you gave of a bit of hesitation when going from idle to full speed is often indicative of the idle mixture being set just a bit too lean. That could also contribute to hard starting. I'd suggest trying enrichening the idle mixture just a hair by turning the idle mixture screw about 1/8 turn counter-clockwise and see if that helps. If that helps a bit but does not fully correct the problem, try another 1/8 turn. Keep track of where you started, so if this doesn't take care of the problem, you can go back to your original settings.
If you end up with the idle speed too rich, one symptom of that is that the saw floods while idling. The first place you'll see this is if you leave the saw idling for a bit, then pick it up, it stalls just from the motion of picking it up (the extra gas pooling in the saw shifts, flooding it out.)
For some good help setting the mixtures on a chainsaw, try this Youtube video:
Also see the page from Madsen's. (you'll need some good speakers or quality headphones to hear the "tune by ear part properly)
Carburetor Adjustment On Pro Saws | Madsen's Shop
www.madsens1.com
I cant find much for specs on the Shindawa 415. I know it was a 39.4 cc saw. Powerhead-only weight was 11.7 lbs. I have been unable to find HP specs, but I'd bet it was under 2 HP.
If you end up replacing it, you mentioned being partial to Husqvarna. The Husqvarna 550XP Mark II is a pro-level saw design 50 cc, same weight as your Shindaiwa 415, but rated at 4 HP. The 550 will absolutely run rings around the 415. List price is around $550. You do want to be sure to get the Mark II version, as that incorporates some needed improvements over the originl version.
If the 550XP is too steep for your needs, check out the Husqvarna 450. It's one of their mid-level "Farm & Ranch" saws. Not buit quite as tough as the 550XP, but still has a decent reputation: 50cc, 3.2 HP, weighs 11.3 lbs.
As others have mentioned, Echo saws also have a good reputation, and can often be found at relatively good prices. I'm not as familiar with that line, however.
Unless you are able to do your own maintenance, I'd be paying more attention to finding a good servicing dealer in your area for either Husqvarna, Stihl, or Echo. A good dealer with a skilled chainsaw mechanic (who can do more than swap the spark plug and replace the filters or fuels lines) can be more important than the brand. I take care of my saws, so I've rarely had to bring them in for service, but it's nice to know it's available if needed.
The size saw you seem to be considering is also well covered by a number of battery-operated models. There are a lot of battery saws out there that will keep up with 40 or 50 cc gas saws, and a couple that will match a 60 cc saw.
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