I am real confused about managing temperature...........

[EatenByLimestone]

Are there any black spots around the edges of the glass? Are you sure your door was completely latched tight? The only time I've seen those temperatures on the Century is if I left the door partially open or it's around -15 and drafting like crazy. By any chance, could you have dislodged the ash pan cover? With such a small firebox those temps are really hard to achieve. The coal bed shouldn't have been an issue, even if you had to push and jamb the splits in.

 

[DamienBricka]

No black spots on the glass. The door if I recall was latch tight. I sealed the ash pan cover so it cannot be removed so that cannot be the problem.
Tomorrow morning I will check the seal around the door and see what I come up with.

This only happens when I put more then one piece of wood in the stove. So I am hesitant of loading the stove full at night as I am afraid of the stove over heating.
I am puzzled.

 

[EatenByLimestone]

It is odd. Just a few days ago, on Thanksgiving, I was reloading my stove with a temp (I actually have a thermometer on that stove) at 300 (taken in the center of the step) with large oak splits. I was jamming it full as I knew the temp was going down to 9 that night. It was down to 15 the previous night. If I could fit 3 large splits in, I was doing it. Sometimes I would only be able to fit in 2 due to the coals. There were plenty of coals in the stove as I was burning oak and didn't have any issues. The only difference with my setup, is it's straight up and about 13 ft. You have that 90 degree bend going into the chimney and the smoke has to make another 90 to go up the chimney. I'd think the setups would act similarly.

It had to have been the door somehow. Maybe a coal got stuck between the gasket and the stove. When you load your stove, subconsciously memorize where that handle should be pointing when you latch that stove.

 

[nola mike]

My 602 burns like that. Not familiar with that stove, but what's the stove pipe temp? Mine will typically run 800-900' at the cook top, 700' right behind that, but only 400-500 right at the stove exit.

 

[EatenByLimestone]

I couldn't tell you that. I only have the one gauge on mine and I'm not at the cabin now. Maybe Rick or Damian could fill you in. It's rated the same as your Century as far as size goes. I think the secondaries are a different design though since I can't see a pipe feeding the secondaries through your flue opening on the website drawings.

 

[DamienBricka]

Today I checked the stove for leaks found none.
Fired up the stove and I decide to put two logs of white oak in less then 15 minutes the temperature reach 750 F on the top of the stove.
Everything is shut off and the fire in the box is going wild. I CANNOT CONTROL THE FIRE. What am I doing wrong?

 

[EatenByLimestone]

What happens when you turn that damper in your stack 25% closed?

 

[EatenByLimestone]

Does moving the draft lever above the door do absolutely nothing or is it not doing enough to control the fire?

 

[DamienBricka]

To be able to control the fire I would have to close it 100% that why I am confused about the stove. Several of you on the Forum have no problem with it. So why is it that when I want to put in more then one log I have temperatures going way high.
1) Maybe my flue of around 18 feet is to high?
2) Maybe my ash pan seal is not working?
3) I did a paper test on the door and it is fine.
4) Maybe making the modification for the secondaries are making the stove to efficient.
5) The challenge that I have is when all this happened I had very little coals.
6) Maybe to much heat is staying in the box because of the two 90 degrees angle I have on the flue.
7) Or maybe plain simple I did not find the leak(s)

Damien

 

[DamienBricka]

Moving the draft level above the door does very little

 

[EatenByLimestone]

The problem is this stove is dead simple. For it to act like that, it's almost like air was being injected into it.

How did you seal the ash pan cover? Did you use the original plug when doing this?

If you do see a change when you move the primary air control to the left, I'm going to assume that it's working. Maybe the issue is with the secondaries?



It looks like there is a cap welded over half of that tube. Is yours closed off that way also? I suppose if there was too much air being pulled in, it might give you that run away fire. If that tube is half closed off, try sticking a magnet over or some aluminum foil into the opening to further close it off.

 

[Motor7]

To be able to control the fire I would have to close it 100% that why I am confused about the stove. Several of you on the Forum have no problem with it. So why is it that when I want to put in more then one log I have temperatures going way high.
1) Maybe my flue of around 18 feet is to high?
2) Maybe my ash pan seal is not working?
3) I did a paper test on the door and it is fine.
4) Maybe making the modification for the secondaries are making the stove to efficient.
5) The challenge that I have is when all this happened I had very little coals.
6) Maybe to much heat is staying in the box because of the two 90 degrees angle I have on the flue.
7) Or maybe plain simple I did not find the leak(s)

Damien

What modification?

 

[Papa-Yankee-Romeo-Oscar]

What are you measuring your temps with?

 

[Sprinter]

What modification?

I'm curious about that too.

 

[DamienBricka]

I just took the suggestions that i found on this post : https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/stove-tweaks.24784/#post-24784

 

[EatenByLimestone]

On my Century, I added firebrick and kaowool above the secondaries in order to insulate them and force the smoke over them. The original design left some healthy gaps around some firebrick. I think Damian did something similar.