Husquvarna 2 cycle oil vs store brand 2 cycle oil.

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not if you run a good oil. Like I said above. I run 32:1 H1R in everything and the exhaust ports on my saws are clean. Never fouled a plug.

I have maybe a dumb question but do you folks have to rejet the carbs when going from factory 50:1 to 32:1? I have no issue using more oil if it's good for the engine and won't cause a lean burn. It's really cheap.

I switched to echo red synthetic premix oil last year and it hardly smokes at all. Also, I can cut 5 cords of firewood on only part of a gallon of fuel in my makita 6400. That's just bucking doug fir logs with a sharp chain. I use more premix fuel in the blower/weedeater.
 
I have maybe a dumb question but do you folks have to rejet the carbs when going from factory 50:1 to 32:1? I have no issue using more oil if it's good for the engine and won't cause a lean burn. It's really cheap.

I switched to echo red synthetic premix oil last year and it hardly smokes at all. Also, I can cut 5 cords of firewood on only part of a gallon of fuel in my makita 6400. That's just bucking doug fir logs with a sharp chain. I use more premix fuel in the blower/weedeater.

It's been so long since I made the switch I can't honestly tell you/remember. You may have to make a slight adjustment, if you are like me and know where you like to keep your saws tuned to. I have tachs/hr meters permanently mounted. I tune my 346XP to 14,400-14,800 and my 390XP to 13,800. The 346XP I switched, but the 390XP all I've ever ran in it is H1R @32:1 since new. Whenever I cut in different temps (summer vs winter) I have to adjust my carb.
 
It's been so long since I made the switch I can't honestly tell you/remember. You may have to make a slight adjustment, if you are like me and know where you like to keep your saws tuned to. I have tachs/hr meters permanently mounted. I tune my 346XP to 14,400-14,800 and my 390XP to 13,800. The 346XP I switched, but the 390XP all I've ever ran in it is H1R @32:1 since new. Whenever I cut in different temps (summer vs winter) I have to adjust my carb.

Thanks JR, the makita is rev limited and I've never put a tach on a saw. I guess I just run them. I've done lots of carb work on 4 stroke engines (motorcycles and trucks) but the 2 strokers just seem to work.

Maybe a better question is whether going from 50:1 to 32:1 on a stock saw will actually hurt it if I don't make carburetor adjustments? For me, I tend to mark a huge log and run cut after cut until shutoff so no idle time. It gets warm.
 
Thanks JR, the makita is rev limited and I've never put a tach on a saw. I guess I just run them. I've done lots of carb work on 4 stroke engines (motorcycles and trucks) but the 2 strokers just seem to work.

Maybe a better question is whether going from 50:1 to 32:1 on a stock saw will actually hurt it if I don't make carburetor adjustments? For me, I tend to mark a huge log and run cut after cut until shutoff so no idle time. It gets warm.


Mine were limited at one time too ;) No more little blue coils on mine! ==c

On paper, you would be running a bit leaner a/f ratio, I'm guessing you probably should re-tune it. Having limiting coils makes that hard to do by ear (at least for me anyway). I can hear 4 stroking fine, but to me a limiting coil sounds very similar.
 
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I've had my 460 rancher almost 3 years now and have never ran anything but Husquvarna 2 cycle oil and 90 octane non ethanol gas. I was cleaning my garage and found 2 large unopened bottles of 2 stroke oil. One Poulan brand and the other Walmart brand (SuperTech). My wife and I are both out of work and not wanting to spend any more money than we have to. So my question is, does anyone see any issue using these oils? I have a tons of trees to cut and figure this is a good opportunity to use up this oil I found without having to buy the OEM stuff. What is your opinion or experience using cheaper s cycle oil?
Run it, it will be fine...if its regular old dino juice, then mix at 32:1...if its synthetic you could stretch it out to 40:1...there are lots of oils out there that claim to be fine to 50:1...but that is not much oil to lube your engine...I personally won't run that lean on oil!
2 strokes just need a little oil...they don't care what kind of oil...you mix the gas/oil to what is recommended by the oil manufacturer, not the engine manufacturer. There could be exceptions to that for certain engines/applications if it is something particularly high performance or severe duty...but for ordinary OPE, the main things you need for them to run well for a long time are quality fuel (E free is best, but E fuel usually works fine if not left to set around, or if you run an ethanol treatment in the fuel (like Startron) and most OPE engines do not need high octane fuel...you are wasting your money on it if that is what you are running (unless that is the only way you can get E free) anyways, running good fuel, oil mixed to the proper ratio (for that oil) a clean well sealed air filter, and carb properly adjusted, makes for a happy chainsaw/weed-eater/blower, dirt bike, snowmobile, whatever.

Back in the day they used to recommend running regular old motor oil for 2 stroke mix...at like 20:1 (and stronger!) talk about smoke and carbon build up! Now, those old antique engines run even better on modern oil...but no need to mix at 20:1, 32:1, or even 40:1 (for synthetic) works fine!
I got a big chuckle when I went to help some old duffers take down a row of pine trees at a nearby church...I brought my own stuff, but they wanted to "help"...so they pull out their 1970's saws and after 20 minutes of dorkin around with them, got them running...but man, talk about smoke! They were still running the old motor oil mix that the owners manual called for...they had no idea they could run modern oils at modern ratios...and they both had junk chains that they said "were just sharpened at the shop"...I dunno if they put them on backwards or what, but if I had paid someone to sharpen a chain, and it cut like that, I think I would take it back and wrap it around their neck! I was making 10 cuts to their 1...and the smoke...from both their mufflers and their chains...like I said, it was really funny! And of course being old timers they didn't want to hear any advice from someone half their age, so I just let them do their thing. I cut 90% of the wood myself...the 2 of them cut the other 10% (and it wasn't that they were feeble, it was all about their saws!) ;lol
Anyways, the only time you need to run the mixture that the manual states is if you are running the exact oil that the manual states...change oil, might need to change oil/fuel ratio too.
And the manufacturers can't force you to run their oil either...even though they wanna act like it...they make more money on selling you oil over the life of the saw than they do selling you the saw...that's why they will extend your warranty if you buy a pack of their synthetic oil when you buy the saw new (Stihl, and I am pretty sure Husky does this too) they want to get you "hooked" on their high priced oil. (And yes it is good oil, its just that there is equally good oil, and better, out there, and often times for less $$)
I run Yamalube 2S at 32:1 in every 2 stroke engine I own (and over the years its been a BUNCH!)...have never blown one up...well, I did blow up my 1978 Yamaha MX100 dirt bike, but that was when I was a kid, and it was WORE THE HECK OUT! Oh, and I was running Klotz oil too, so not an oil related failure, just completely shot. A fresh top and it was good to go again.
Yamalube 2S at 32:1 does not visibly smoke once off choke and warmed up a bit.
 
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I took a peak a long time ago at my 346XP piston through the exhaust port running Husqvarna XP oil @50:1 and then again after running Bel-Ray H1R @32:1 for awhile. The difference was night and day. You could see the nice shiny film on everything, and the exhaust port was clean as could be. All I run now is H1R at 32:1. I use it in all my 2 stroke equipment.
Makes sense...50:1 is pretty stingy on oil!
 
What do you guys think about running 40:1 in my Husquvarna 460 rancher?
40:1 synthetic oil/fuel mixture will work fine in everything you own.
 
Maybe a better question is whether going from 50:1 to 32:1 on a stock saw will actually hurt it if I don't make carburetor adjustments? For me, I tend to mark a huge log and run cut after cut until shutoff so no idle time. It gets warm.
If you are running that hard, I would stick with synthetic oil, but split the difference at 40:1, adjust carb to suit.
If you are worried about being lean, warm the saw, make a typical cut at WOT, and hit the kill switch while under load at WOT, remove the plug and have a look at the color...should be tan to light brown...not light tan/white/gray! You can google pics of proper 2 stroke spark plug color...
 
If you are running that hard, I would stick with synthetic oil, but split the difference at 40:1, adjust carb to suit.
If you are worried about being lean, warm the saw, make a typical cut at WOT, and hit the kill switch while under load at WOT, remove the plug and have a look at the color...should be tan to light brown...not light tan/white/gray! You can google pics of proper 2 stroke spark plug color...

I think all the epa plugs are still on the dolkita carb. I mixed up a fresh gallon at 40:1 today with synthetic echo pro oil and put 1.5 tanks through it. It still has the oem catalyst muffler!
 
Just stay away from TC-W3 outboard oils in your saw.

For now I'm running the Husky XP+ in my saw. But once I use this bottle up I'll probably switch over to Amsoil Dominator, I usually keep a couple gallons on hand for my sled and switching keeps one less bottle off the shelf. If it can keep my 215 hp 800cc turbocharged 2 stroke sled alive at 8400 rpm I'm sure it'll be just fine in my 4 hp 50cc saw.
 
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I think all the epa plugs are still on the dolkita carb. I mixed up a fresh gallon at 40:1 today with synthetic echo pro oil and put 1.5 tanks through it. It still has the oem catalyst muffler!
Removing that muffler gives you a new saw lol. I switched mine with an older model saw, they bolt right on, and it really opened it up to scream.
 
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I run Yamalube 2S at 32:1 in every 2 stroke engine I own (and over the years its been a BUNCH!)...have never blown one up...well, I did blow up my 1978 Yamaha MX100 dirt bike, but that was when I was a kid, and it was WORE THE HECK OUT! Oh, and I was running Klotz oil too, so not an oil related failure, just completely shot. A fresh top and it was good to go again.
Yamalube 2S at 32:1 does not visibly smoke once off choke and warmed up a bit.

I run H1R at 32:1 in everything 2 cycle as well. More oil is better for the bearings and also provides better ring seal. :)

I too used to run good ole' Klotz Techniplate (?) in my '83 KX80 a@ 20:1 and then later on my '85 KX125 @ 32:1. That stuff burns dirty as all heck compared to today's better oils.
 
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I too used to run good ole' Klotz Techniplate (?) in my '83 KX80 a@ 20:1 and then later on my '85 KX125 @ 32:1. That stuff burns dirty as all heck compared to today's better oils.
Sure smelled good though... ;lol
 
Sure smelled good though... ;lol

I don't remember what it smells like. :( I'm sure if I ever catch a whiff of it again it will send my mind right back to a point of time in my childhood though. I have that happen to me on occasion. Crazy what our olfactory system does with aromas!

I know I miss the sweet smell of racing fuel!
 
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I don't remember what it smells like. :( I'm sure if I ever catch a whiff of it again it will send my mind right back to a point of time in my childhood though. I have that happen to me on occasion. Crazy what our olfactory system does with aromas!

I know I miss the sweet smell of racing fuel!
Here ya go... ;lol
Amazon product ASIN B01LXSC7MU
 
The GF will be impressed when you tell her you are gonna get her a nice candle for her birthday...(for a bit) ;) ;lol
BTW, its the Castor bean oil in Klotz that makes it smell so niiiice…you can still buy it, and other oils with CBO too...there are modern formulations that lubricate/burn better...
 
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damn! That is sooo tempting! Next would probably come a moto-x bike.....followed shortly after by some broken bones. ;lol
Safer to just run some Klotz in your weed-eater and bask in the memories ;lol
I still have a few bikes/ATV's around though, nothing 2 stroke...well, there are some boxes with most of a Banshee in...that was going to be a snowmobile engine sand dragster...probably never happen at this point.
Anyways...
 
Safer to just run some Klotz in your weed-eater and bask in the memories ;lol

definitely. However those moto-x memories would lead me to purchase one for riding and not for the smell. ;lol
 
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Few things get snowmobilers and chain saw addicts more riled up than what oil to use in their machines.

They are both almost cult like in their opinions on what works and what doesn’t.

Definitely a toss up between what is argued more, machine brands or oil brands.
 
Few things get snowmobilers and chain saw addicts more riled up than what oil to use in their machines.

They are both almost cult like in their opinions on what works and what doesn’t.

It's not just those two.....pretty much anything which needs oil. ;lol
 
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Bar oil . . . I pretty much use anything sold in any stores.

Mixed oil . . . I prefer to use the Husky or Jonsered oil as I thought I read once that those contain fuel stabilizers as well . . . although I think I read it on the internet.
 
Nothing wrong with ethanol gas if you drain it after every use. The ethanol does its damage sitting in the tank and carb.

I run my saws, and all my 2 strokes on 90 octane non ethanol fuel, with Stihl synthetic oil that has stabilizers built in. I've never had a problem.
 
I have a 1995 Husqvarna model 45, that has seen nothing but 50:1 it's whole life, and it's still my go to saw for small jobs. It's small, light and easy to start. Hard to argue with 25 years of use,
 
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