HDRock
Minister of Fire
What?I hit 650 surface temp all the time (checked with IR tester) but by the time it gets to the class a pipe its only about 450, no biggie.
Do you mean 650 on the surface of your single wall pipe??
What?I hit 650 surface temp all the time (checked with IR tester) but by the time it gets to the class a pipe its only about 450, no biggie.
YesWhat?
Do you mean 650 on the surface of your single wall pipe??
Its 650 on the single wall surface 18 inches above stove but about 4 feet up the pipe before it goes into the class a pipe it is only 450, checked with a IR tester.is that the whole flue or just part of it?
That's the insulated pipe that goes through the roof, stove pipe is what comes off the stove.
sorry to be so thick--so that is 650 on the stovetop surface and 450 on the flue (pipe)
Wow if my pipe was that hot my stove would be going ballistic.Its 650 on the single wall surface 18 inches above stove but about 4 feet up the pipe before it goes into the class a pipe it is only 450, checked with a IR tester.
Been talking about my high flue temps for a long time and it is that way for some other people also, if you have raging secondaries (happens easily with this stove and my wood) I am not sure how you get away from it, as the flames are wrapping around the baffle only a short distance from the flue.Wow if my pipe was that hot my stove would be going ballistic.
Right now Single wall pipe temperature at 18 inches above the stove as per, IR Thermometer is 295, Stove top is at 635
Did you read my quote about these non cat EPA stoves are known for doing just that, when it gets below 0 I get too many coals trying to keep the house warm and my wood is dry.
Buy a cat stove.
I'm laughing my ash off here. (Crappyfarter)It is tortuous to think that I could have had a Blaze King Princess for what I paid for a Crappyfarter (oops, Quadrafire) 4300.
I miss my 4 cu ft stove.I like this post because it is simply stated and true.
That said even cat stoves can have the same problem.
Not to brag but my stove is so dang huge that even with just a lot of hot coals in it I do good with it.
Cheers!
OldSpark--my Alderlea T5 I believe is a similar stove, so I should be OK with similar temps, right? Because the therm does show 650 to be well in the red.Its 650 on the single wall surface 18 inches above stove
BeGreen Yes, that really works! and keeps the warmth up for a good hour more. I am surprised how comfortable the house stays at that low level of heat output even with the current cold outside--must be because the house has gotten to a nice base level. I think the cause of my stove getting so hot (700 on the flue) so quickly as I mentioned in another thread is that I was assuming if I waited till the coals got much smaller the house would get too cool before I reload so I reloaded on a bed of large red coals--but not true--I can put much more wood on the reload if I wait till they look more like little gems than giant fireballs!!Help burn up the coals by giving them more air, not less
rwhite--I know exactly what you mean now---I have been checking this out today--it has been in the 20's today--I partially filled at 11 this morning and when the coals were very red hot, about 3 pm, I decided open the air, let them burn out and let off some more heat--that was two hours ago--flue was 250 and house was quite comfortable. Now flue is 150, house is still OK and I will reload. But the other day when it was in low teens--the house got much colder while I was waiting for coals to burn off a bit more. I rarely get down below zero, even single digits is not that common. But that 10 degrees or so makes a huge difference in how fast the house cools down.. When the outside temp gets below about -5 the time it takes the stove to go from 500 down to 300 so I can reload is enough that the house cools off
Yes its in the red but wont hurt any thing, I don't like it but if I want a hot fire I am going to have a hot flue, a couple of feet up the pipe it drops 200 degrees or more.OldSpark--my Alderlea T5 I believe is a similar stove, so I should be OK with similar temps, right? Because the therm does show 650 to be well in the red.
I have so many coals 30 minutes aint long enough to get rid of them even with a couple of 2x4's. I thinking a shovel full of tooth picks will do it.Help burn up the coals by giving them more air, not less. I usually open the air 50 to 100% open and let them burn down for about 30 minutes. It helps to put a dry small split, a 2x4 or a cup of pellets on top of the coals when burning them down.
What I did last year was dig under the coals and remove about 3 scoops of ash every morning. This gave room for wood and left the good hot coals for quickly igniting the fire. The only problem with this method is that it introduces more ash into the house.
So how do you keep the volatile gases from burning up to fast and to help burn down the coals. Put some heat tape over half the vent holes to slow things down..
But the other day when it was in low teens--the house got much colder while I was waiting for coals to burn off a bit more. I rarely get down below zero, even single digits is not that common. But that 10 degrees or so makes a huge difference in how fast the house cools down.I have noticed the EXACT same thing. > 20F the house heats great. <10F I struggle much more than expected with only a 10 degree difference.
Otherwise--all other heat vents are closed off because I do NOT want to use any oil for the main part of the house. We sound like we have a very similar attitude about NOT burning Oil!
What I did last year was dig under the coals and remove about 3 scoops of ash every morning. This gave room for wood and left the good hot coals for quickly igniting the fire. The only problem with this method is that it introduces more ash into the house.
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